Need power supply help for an 12VDC "RV" style CRT TV
#1

I was given an old Audiovox flexvision AVT-1498 that I assume was pulled from an RV or conversion van. I was only given the TV without any cables or remote.
I want to use it in the house to play old games (Duck Hunt on the NES the light gun only works with a CRT Television).
So I need help picking out a proper 12VDC power supply
The TV says 12-14VDC @4A and has a 5A slow-blow fuse on the back panel. I tried two different 12VDC @ 5A switching power adapters with the same outcome. The TV will not power on but the power button is backlit red and the channel and volume buttons briefly flash green and a clicking sound is heard but nothing else happens.
Thanks
I want to use it in the house to play old games (Duck Hunt on the NES the light gun only works with a CRT Television).
So I need help picking out a proper 12VDC power supply
The TV says 12-14VDC @4A and has a 5A slow-blow fuse on the back panel. I tried two different 12VDC @ 5A switching power adapters with the same outcome. The TV will not power on but the power button is backlit red and the channel and volume buttons briefly flash green and a clicking sound is heard but nothing else happens.
Thanks
#2
What are you using for a power cord ?
Be sure the polarity is correct.
Try running it in a vehicle on 12v power.
Your supplies may be crapping out with the turn on load.

Be sure the polarity is correct.
Try running it in a vehicle on 12v power.
Your supplies may be crapping out with the turn on load.

#3
If you bought a cheap 5A switch mode power supply, your power supply may not be able to actually supply 5A.
Also, CRTs have high current draw on start up, so the power supply needs to be capable of supplying higher current than what the TV requires. I'd say 10A to be safe.
Even if you have a good 5A power supply, chances are the power supply will see a sudden huge current draw as a short and trip short circuit protection.
This is also way the TV has slow blow fuse instead of fast blow.
Also, CRTs have high current draw on start up, so the power supply needs to be capable of supplying higher current than what the TV requires. I'd say 10A to be safe.
Even if you have a good 5A power supply, chances are the power supply will see a sudden huge current draw as a short and trip short circuit protection.
This is also way the TV has slow blow fuse instead of fast blow.
videobruce voted this post useful.
#4
Ones of the power supplies is a Wearnes WDS060120 and the other is a power adapter that I borrowed from a friends Netgear router, both say 12VDC @ 5A
While the Wearnes WDS060120 which was used for a security DVR with a hard drive has a little weight to it (for a switcher) the Netgear one is very light so I doubt the rating on that one. I did not buy either one.
@ Pete the RV or van is long gone so I can't try it that way
I did however make a cable with a barrel type (5.5 x 2.1MM) DJ jack to .250 quick disconnects and I connected it to a SLA type 12VDC battery and the TV did power on (So at least I now know the TV does actually work) with an acceptable picture when connected to a DVD player.
@lambition I do think that was it (the high current draw activating the short circuit protection) as the power LED on the power supply and the TV itself went out every time I pressed the power button
I have a few extra ATX style computer power supplies and I think there is a way to get them to power them on without the actual computer. So I think that is what I am going to try
While the Wearnes WDS060120 which was used for a security DVR with a hard drive has a little weight to it (for a switcher) the Netgear one is very light so I doubt the rating on that one. I did not buy either one.
@ Pete the RV or van is long gone so I can't try it that way
I did however make a cable with a barrel type (5.5 x 2.1MM) DJ jack to .250 quick disconnects and I connected it to a SLA type 12VDC battery and the TV did power on (So at least I now know the TV does actually work) with an acceptable picture when connected to a DVD player.
@lambition I do think that was it (the high current draw activating the short circuit protection) as the power LED on the power supply and the TV itself went out every time I pressed the power button
I have a few extra ATX style computer power supplies and I think there is a way to get them to power them on without the actual computer. So I think that is what I am going to try

#5
You can power up ATX power supply by shorting green wire (PS-ON) to ground.
However, most ATX power supply will also trip short circuit protection with high inrush current of a CRT TV. Connecting a SLA battery in parallel with output of power supply will probably allow it to work by acting as a buffer. But, this is not a good long term solution. Battery will probably go bad very fast since 12V is not enough to keep the battery fully charged.
Getting a high current power supply is probably the best solution.
However, most ATX power supply will also trip short circuit protection with high inrush current of a CRT TV. Connecting a SLA battery in parallel with output of power supply will probably allow it to work by acting as a buffer. But, this is not a good long term solution. Battery will probably go bad very fast since 12V is not enough to keep the battery fully charged.
Getting a high current power supply is probably the best solution.
#6
When you try to power on the tv one thing you can do is monitor the voltage at the tv to ensure that the voltage is high enough.
Connect a volt meter at the tv and check the voltage when the tv is first turned on and when in operation.
Another thing to consider is that you can buy a new 20" led tv for well under $100.00 and a working used one for almost free.
Connect a volt meter at the tv and check the voltage when the tv is first turned on and when in operation.
Another thing to consider is that you can buy a new 20" led tv for well under $100.00 and a working used one for almost free.
videobruce voted this post useful.
#7
Certain vintage video game guns and vintage drawing tablet pens rely on the scanning of the electron beam on a CRT for operation.
You might find an old CRT TV in a thrift shop such as Salvation Army. CRTs nowadays are hard to find because they don't receive today's TV broadcasts without a set top box connected between the antenna and the TV set.
You might find an old CRT TV in a thrift shop such as Salvation Army. CRTs nowadays are hard to find because they don't receive today's TV broadcasts without a set top box connected between the antenna and the TV set.
#9

Would one of These work? (I am looking at the 10A one).
I don't want to buy one and have it do the same thing as the other power supplies I have tried.
Also @ AllanJ there were CRT TV's that had ATSC (AKA Digital Television Tuners or DTV for short) in the "last gasp" time for CRT's when they were made as cheaply as possible and were sold along side of the LCD TVs
I don't want to buy one and have it do the same thing as the other power supplies I have tried.
Also @ AllanJ there were CRT TV's that had ATSC (AKA Digital Television Tuners or DTV for short) in the "last gasp" time for CRT's when they were made as cheaply as possible and were sold along side of the LCD TVs
#10
Maybe. You wouldn't know until you tried it. I'd be inclined to go with one of the standard brick supplies like the 10A version in the following link.
Power supply at ebay.
Power supply at ebay.
#11
OK so almost a year later! I finally bought a Power Supply I got the 12V 10A one (Quantity 1). The TV is now working inside the house and I am able to play Duck Hunt again (The main reason I needed a CRT)
Anyway the power supply came with a very questionable power cord
It has a grounded IEC 60320 C13 on one end and a NEMA 1-15P on the other
The power supplies casing is all plastic so I don't know why they did not just the non-grounded C17 or the smaller C7 one. Anyway I will not be using that cord
Anyway the power supply came with a very questionable power cord
It has a grounded IEC 60320 C13 on one end and a NEMA 1-15P on the other
The power supplies casing is all plastic so I don't know why they did not just the non-grounded C17 or the smaller C7 one. Anyway I will not be using that cord