Wiring from house to shed
#1
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Wiring from house to shed
Hello!
I have a shed in my backyard that I would like to run power too. I would like a switch in the house to control the lighting on the shed and one outlet via a three-way switch (two lights and one receptacle on the three-way). I have two other outlets that will always have power. I made a crude drawing of the wiring that I was looking to do. The breaker and three-way switch on the left are in the house, then there will be a 90 foot run of buried line to the shed. I only need 15 amps out there. I was thinking I will need 12-5 just to be safe if I ever want 20 amps, and I think I'll need 5 wires in it, 2 for travelers, white and black, and ground.
Anyone see any concerns here?
I have a shed in my backyard that I would like to run power too. I would like a switch in the house to control the lighting on the shed and one outlet via a three-way switch (two lights and one receptacle on the three-way). I have two other outlets that will always have power. I made a crude drawing of the wiring that I was looking to do. The breaker and three-way switch on the left are in the house, then there will be a 90 foot run of buried line to the shed. I only need 15 amps out there. I was thinking I will need 12-5 just to be safe if I ever want 20 amps, and I think I'll need 5 wires in it, 2 for travelers, white and black, and ground.
Anyone see any concerns here?
Last edited by Milksnake12; 04-16-19 at 12:58 PM.
#2
Your diagram is pretty close. When the power first comes into the shed you'll need a building disconnect switch which can be a standard 20A toggle switch or something like an air conditioner disconnect box. The three-way switch circuit needs to be powered from the shed side of the circuit after the building disconnect switch.
There are no underground cable assemblies with the right mix of conductors so you'll need to use individual conductors pulled into PVC conduit. I'd recommend you use a 20A GFCI breaker on this circuit which will satisfy all of the protection requirements for the shed and will also allow burial depth of only 12" for the conduit. The conduit will need a black, white and green in #12 THWN and two more #12 THWN conductors for the travelers. You can use black if they're well marked, but I would use blue or red to avoid confusion with the hot.
There are no underground cable assemblies with the right mix of conductors so you'll need to use individual conductors pulled into PVC conduit. I'd recommend you use a 20A GFCI breaker on this circuit which will satisfy all of the protection requirements for the shed and will also allow burial depth of only 12" for the conduit. The conduit will need a black, white and green in #12 THWN and two more #12 THWN conductors for the travelers. You can use black if they're well marked, but I would use blue or red to avoid confusion with the hot.
#5
Hi, your lights are in series, you need a neutral at each fixture, as well as blacks tied together with the black fixture wires.
Geo
Geo
#7
I think this is what you wanted. Only did a quick proof of diagram if you see errors let me know.
Note: Conduit carries five conductors plus green ground wire, One black, one white to bring power to shed disconnect and three wires for outside light 3-way switch. Two red for travelers and one blue that carries power back from the disconnect to the common of the 3-way at the house.
Grounds not shown. Connect per code.
Note: Conduit carries five conductors plus green ground wire, One black, one white to bring power to shed disconnect and three wires for outside light 3-way switch. Two red for travelers and one blue that carries power back from the disconnect to the common of the 3-way at the house.
Grounds not shown. Connect per code.
Last edited by ray2047; 04-17-19 at 04:43 AM.
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Your diagram had an extra switch and light in it. Ibpooks above mentioned using a normal 20a switch as the main shutoff, I was hoping to use a normal switch for this purpose (if that is advisable).
#12
Your diagram had an extra switch and light in it
It has a switch at the shed for the outside lights.
It has a switch at the shed for a light in the shed.
If you don'twant a light in the shed the light and switch can be removed.
The yellow box does not specify what kind of disconnect. It could be a regular toggle switch.
A $7 non fused pull-out 60 amp disconnect switch would probably be as cheap. No junction box needed and plenty of room for all the wires from the house.
Last edited by ray2047; 04-17-19 at 10:55 AM.
#13
Your latest diagram appears correct to me. The shed disconnect can be a standard 20A toggle switch; it's a little beefier than a regular light switch but will fit into a standard switch box and cover plate. I tend to use air conditioner disconnects simply because they are very quick,easy to wire and cost less than $10 all in.