Code connecting oven junction box

Reply

  #1  
Old 05-25-19, 10:10 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 72
Code connecting oven junction box

Folks:

Take a look at my pictures. These are of a 240 v wire box where my double wall oven is connected. My oven died so I bought a new one. Upon removing it, I found the oven was wired into the 240 wires with proper nuts--but not enclosed in the junction box--just left open. As you can see, the oven's metal conduit wasn't connected to the box; just hanging there.

I assume this not only isn't code but is also dangerous. I know these wires don't get moved or jostled, but shouldn't that metal conduit be connected into the junction box and then the wires are connected and cover is secured? \

If you notice, there is my original wall and then the cabinet box, so I have an inch in between the two. My thought is to simply convert this box into a 240 volt plug receptacle, then add a plug to the end of my oven and plug it in.

If that hat idea uses up too much back space, the oven has notched 4 inches on either side in the back, meaning it isnít flat all on the back, so I could jut put a plug to the right of this junction box. A little tricky but I could run my 240 wire through this junction and into the box to the right. I would but more cable and junction in the box and cover with a plate.

Would this work?
Thanks, TKH

Name:  o1.jpg
Views: 48
Size:  41.9 KB

Name:  o2.jpg
Views: 44
Size:  99.3 KB

Name:  o3.jpg
Views: 43
Size:  45.7 KB

Name:  o4.jpg
Views: 42
Size:  70.1 KB
 

Last edited by PJmax; 05-26-19 at 08:57 AM. Reason: resized pictures
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 05-26-19, 04:30 AM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 3,663
Likes Received: 1
Hi, use a 2 gang box extender and the install the range receptacle and a flush plate.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Arlingto...g-Box-Extender.
Geo
 
  #3  
Old 05-26-19, 04:56 AM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,107
Likes Received: 5
The problem is you cannot attach a plug on that whip. It is meant to be hardwired into the junction box.

You will need a wallplate with knockout which I never seen in 2 gang.

Or you can put this on, then put a blank cover.
https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Raco-.../dp/B003A4AEFY

You will also have to ground that extension box. Easiest way will be using a grounding clip.
 
  #4  
Old 05-26-19, 05:23 AM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 12,695
Likes Received: 10
You will need a wallplate with knockout which I never seen in 2 gang.
You need to drill your own. I do it all the time for furniture base feeds and it makes the flattest, cleanest install.

Buy a 2 gang weatherproof blank cover (because they are metal) a 1/2" flex 90, and a 7/8" hole saw. You will also need a 2 gang box extender if your blank does not install flat to the box. (Or cut the cabinet)
Drill a 7/8" hole in the middle of the 2 gang WP blank cover.
Connect the oven whip to the WP blank cover using the 1/2" flex 90.
Install box extender (if needed) and wires as normal.
 
Zorfdt liked this post.
  #5  
Old 05-26-19, 06:32 AM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 3,663
Likes Received: 1
Hi, is your new oven cord connected?
Geo
 
  #6  
Old 05-26-19, 07:19 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 72
Well, truth is, those pictures are OF my new oven chord. When I was installing, I connected it. While doing so, my brain worked in delayed fashion (like always) and I stopped what I was doing and realized this can not be right. So those pictures are of the new oven cable/conduit etc.

What makes this a bit more tricky is upon measuring all my environment, this new oven is about 1/2 in deeper than previous. The box is deep enough--but not deep enough to accommodate a connection directly in the back. Since the oven back does notch 4 inches in on both sides, I need have my connection be flush to the right side and not sitting 10 inches from the right side like it is. So that's a long way of saying that no matter my solution, I have to move where the oven connects furtherst right or furthest left. I'll use this junction box to connect new wire that will run to the new box, cover plate it and no longer use it.
 
  #7  
Old 05-26-19, 07:28 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 72
Tolyn:

I like your idea with the flex 90. That way the cable connects firmly into that flex and the flex into the cover place.

However, because the box and cover plate are on the wall and not the cabinet, I'll have to cut a much larger hole into the cabinet to accommodate the cable as it drops down out of the 90 connector and then flow up to the top of the cabinet to connect. There is a bout 1 inch gap between cabinet and wall. I don't mind cutting the cabinet; its all hidden, etc. Was just wondering if there is a way to go straight into the wall plate and not have a 90. Perhaps that would have too much constant pull from the conduit if it were plugged at a 90 into the wall rather than parallel to the wall like a flex 90 would allow. My wish wouldn't let the conduit hang down, rather it would poke straight out and that likely wouldn't be good.

Just brainstorming.
 
  #8  
Old 05-26-19, 08:19 AM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 12,695
Likes Received: 10
Was just wondering if there is a way to go straight into the wall plate and not have a 90.
Yes, They have straight and sometimes 45 degree 1/2" flex connectors. However, the flex conduit on the whip will likely bend enough to make it past the cabinet back. If not you could install a box extender and mount the plate flush on the cabinet back.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes