Burnt Wire On GFCI Outlet
#1
05-30-19, 01:44 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2019
Location: United States
Posts: 6
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Burnt Wire On GFCI Outlet
I was running a Breville BOV900XL toaster, which has been working fine for 5 months (no tripping, no resets).
Today shortly after turning the toaster on, I heard a pinging noise, and the entire circuit on my GFI #2 breaker
went out. I shut it down, and upon opening it up saw one of the black wires was burned to a crisp at the end.
What could cause this, and what would be an appropriate next step? Should I just try replacing the outlet and cut the burned section of wiring out and reseat it in a new outlet? The Breville is running at 1800W, on a 20A circuit.
Today shortly after turning the toaster on, I heard a pinging noise, and the entire circuit on my GFI #2 breaker
went out. I shut it down, and upon opening it up saw one of the black wires was burned to a crisp at the end.
What could cause this, and what would be an appropriate next step? Should I just try replacing the outlet and cut the burned section of wiring out and reseat it in a new outlet? The Breville is running at 1800W, on a 20A circuit.
#2
05-30-19, 01:45 PM
Only one thing causes this, loose connection.
yes, as long as the wire does not get too short.
Should I just try replacing the outlet and cut the burned section of wiring out and reseat it in a new outlet?
#4
05-30-19, 01:54 PM
Member
Should I just try replacing the outlet and cut the burned section of wiring out and reseat it in a new outlet?
I agree, replace the outlet and repair or extend the wire eliminating the burnt portion. Before connecting to the new outlet I would also try resetting the GFCI breaker to make sure it isn't still tripping.
#6
05-31-19, 02:17 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2019
Location: United States
Posts: 6
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Replaced the outlet, got the green led light but no power from the outlets.
Going to test the lines tomorrow, but I don't think this was the result of a loose connection.
That line was tight as can be.
Going to test the lines tomorrow, but I don't think this was the result of a loose connection.
That line was tight as can be.
#7
05-31-19, 06:30 AM
Do the test and reset buttons work properly?
Did you connect the GFCI backwards with power going into the load terminals?
We can't rule out a hidden loose connection leading to a sudden random mechanical failure inside the GFCI unit particularly if it made a "ping" sound before failing.
Suggestion for those eavesdropping: When installing a GFCI receptacle unit, connect only the power first and verify that the receptacles work, before connecting the continuing subcircuit to the load terminals.
Did you connect the GFCI backwards with power going into the load terminals?
We can't rule out a hidden loose connection leading to a sudden random mechanical failure inside the GFCI unit particularly if it made a "ping" sound before failing.
Suggestion for those eavesdropping: When installing a GFCI receptacle unit, connect only the power first and verify that the receptacles work, before connecting the continuing subcircuit to the load terminals.
#8
06-02-19, 11:01 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2019
Location: United States
Posts: 6
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Hi AllanJ,
I did connect the wiring exactly as it was, and was working find for the four years I've lived here.
I did not connect just the breaker side first, which I now know I should have done.
The breaker's "hot" line is the one that burned out on the outlet.
I will reassemble just the lines from the breaker today and see how that goes.
Is there any specific way to use the multimeter to check these lines?
Or do you just put the black probe on the white line and the red on the black line?
I did connect the wiring exactly as it was, and was working find for the four years I've lived here.
I did not connect just the breaker side first, which I now know I should have done.
The breaker's "hot" line is the one that burned out on the outlet.
I will reassemble just the lines from the breaker today and see how that goes.
Is there any specific way to use the multimeter to check these lines?
Or do you just put the black probe on the white line and the red on the black line?
#9
06-02-19, 11:34 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2019
Location: United States
Posts: 6
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Fixed it.
The Levitan outlet is backwards from the one I had.
Swapped the wiring and it worked. Checked everything with multimeter and variac and
it seems to be fine. The real pain was reversing the ground wire, had a little panic when I broke off the existing loop in the copper wire, but I formed a new loop and got it up top.
Thank you for your insight and advice everyone, I am very grateful.
The Levitan outlet is backwards from the one I had.
Swapped the wiring and it worked. Checked everything with multimeter and variac and
it seems to be fine. The real pain was reversing the ground wire, had a little panic when I broke off the existing loop in the copper wire, but I formed a new loop and got it up top.
Thank you for your insight and advice everyone, I am very grateful.
#10
06-02-19, 12:20 PM
Member
Good job. Just for the future remember receptacles have no top or bottom. Ground can go bottom or top and with GFCI receptacles line can be either side. You need to look at the markings.
