Currently have the following installed in an older house (for controlling overhead room lights). Bryant RR3B...originals and [url]https://www.kyleswitchplates.com/low-voltage-mechanical-latching-relay-1070b-pass-seymour/[/url] that someone has used to replace failed ones in the past. Aside from being almost half the cost what is the difference between the 1070B (above) and [url]https://www.kyleswitchplates.com/ge-rr7-low-voltage-remote-control-relay-switch/[/url] All of the current relays are mounted in junction boxes and I can't tell if the RR7 can be also. Could I use the RR7 as a direct replacement for some failed relays?

I've got kind of a weird situation, I'm wiring up a small backyard tiny house for use as a rental. Main power will be supplied by a 30A breaker and 10/2 wire coming from the main house, to an RV box, then to an RV plug, then into the sub panel in the tiny house where it feeds a couple of 20A circuits. So heres the issue, with this amount of power, popping the breaker will happen from time to time, and I want the person in the house to be able to reset it there. If I didn't care about electrical code, I'd just go ahead and put an oversized breaker at the main panel and backfeed the sub panel through a 30A single pole breaker. I like to keep things as compliant as I can though, so I'm trying to figure out if there is a different way to do this. It's too bad they don't make 29 amp breakers or I could just backfeed the subpanel with one of those and the problem would be solved! Maybe it's not an issue? in this scenario if I had a 30 amp breaker on BOTH ends of the 100' 10/2 line, which breaker would trip first, the one in the main panel or the one in the sub panel? Any ideas for how to do what I'm trying to do here? thanks for any replies!