Lowering a range receptacle
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Lowering a range receptacle
For a while I have been dealing with a range/oven that cannot be pushed all the way against the wall, it can go as far as 3" off the wall and that's it.
The reason for this is the original rough in of the range receptacle back in the 1960s was too high for the range.
The back of the range, as shown in the picture below, has a recess area for the socket and plug but it's not high enough. So the plug is about 1.5" higher than it needs to be.
Here is a picture of the receptacle after I opened the wall.
Before I opened the wall, my original plan was to relocate the 4-11/16" box lower. I didn't know the box was sitting on top of a 1" conduit coming up through the slab, and where the conduit ends is just where the "bend" in the conduit ends. So if I were to cut the conduit any lower I may end up with an end that's no longer vertical for the box. Plus it will be a challenge to cut the conduit without touching the #6 conductors inside. I already went to the panel and tried pulling the conductors back from that end, no luck at all.
I am not sure if it's PVC or EMT. I think it's EMT but it's caked with wall texture sprays I can't tell for sure.
Then my next idea is to mount a new box like below, onto the stud to the right, and connect the two with a 1" conduit. The problem is I need to create three splices of two #6 conductors in the original box. Is that a problem? Do I use the biggest wire nuts I can find, or do I use three copper split bolts, or are there better ways?
The reason for this is the original rough in of the range receptacle back in the 1960s was too high for the range.
The back of the range, as shown in the picture below, has a recess area for the socket and plug but it's not high enough. So the plug is about 1.5" higher than it needs to be.
Here is a picture of the receptacle after I opened the wall.
Before I opened the wall, my original plan was to relocate the 4-11/16" box lower. I didn't know the box was sitting on top of a 1" conduit coming up through the slab, and where the conduit ends is just where the "bend" in the conduit ends. So if I were to cut the conduit any lower I may end up with an end that's no longer vertical for the box. Plus it will be a challenge to cut the conduit without touching the #6 conductors inside. I already went to the panel and tried pulling the conductors back from that end, no luck at all.
I am not sure if it's PVC or EMT. I think it's EMT but it's caked with wall texture sprays I can't tell for sure.
Then my next idea is to mount a new box like below, onto the stud to the right, and connect the two with a 1" conduit. The problem is I need to create three splices of two #6 conductors in the original box. Is that a problem? Do I use the biggest wire nuts I can find, or do I use three copper split bolts, or are there better ways?
#2
#3
I also like the idea of converting the existing box to a junction box and installing a new box, but does it have to be fed with conduit? I do see that all other wiring is either in conduit or MC cable. I just think it would be easier to use a short length of NM-B cable unless conduit is a requirement. I would use the big blue wirenuts, never had a problem with them before.
I noticed the MC cable too, it looks like someone accessed 120 volts off the range circuit for something, but that 120 volts would be protected probably at 40 or 50 amps. Not a good situation. I suppose that since the range circuit is in conduit there could be another circuit in the conduit, but the MC cable looks newer so I doubt that is the case.
I noticed the MC cable too, it looks like someone accessed 120 volts off the range circuit for something, but that 120 volts would be protected probably at 40 or 50 amps. Not a good situation. I suppose that since the range circuit is in conduit there could be another circuit in the conduit, but the MC cable looks newer so I doubt that is the case.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
The MC cable coming off the top was probably added later. It is two entirely separate circuits with three conductors (one for dishwasher, one for garbage disposer, sharing a neutral on a MBWC). It had to be added later since I don't think garbage disposers were around in the 1950s-1960s?
These three #12 conductors are in the same conduit with the #6 conductors for the range, then they exit the top and run behind the wall to a sink cabinet.
I could use NM-B but the reason to use a short piece of conduit was to stablize the existing box because right now it is sitting on top of the conduit but not fastened to any framing, so you can't move laterally but it can "spin" in place. With a conduit there I would be fixing that too.
These three #12 conductors are in the same conduit with the #6 conductors for the range, then they exit the top and run behind the wall to a sink cabinet.
I could use NM-B but the reason to use a short piece of conduit was to stablize the existing box because right now it is sitting on top of the conduit but not fastened to any framing, so you can't move laterally but it can "spin" in place. With a conduit there I would be fixing that too.
#6
right now it is sitting on top of the conduit but not fastened to any framing, so you can't move laterally but it can "spin" in place.
If the box will spin in place the connector isn't tight and the conduit, if used as a ground, isn't providing a reliable path to ground. You need to tighten or replace the connector.