Connecting outside meter/main to inside main panel

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Old 10-25-19, 09:46 AM
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Connecting outside meter/main to inside main panel

Hello,
I have my meter/main panel installed outside. This is a 200 amp main outside connected to the meter and uses 4/0 aluminum wire. Now I'm trying to figure out the best way to run the wire inside. Should I do another conduit down with a Type LB (90 degree) going into the house? If I do this, do I need some sort of protection around the 4/0 wire? Another way I was thinking was directly through the back of the outside box to go inside, but again do I need the wire in another conduit inside? Or, run conduit out the side of the outside box going up and over the wall? Hopefully the pictures will give you a better idea of what I'm talking about. You can see the inside panel is mounted to one side of the outside main. If needed I can move the inside panel to either side of the outside main.

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Last edited by PJmax; 10-26-19 at 03:00 PM. Reason: resized pictures
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Old 10-25-19, 10:11 AM
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If you are using individual wires they must be in conduit all the way to the indoor panel. By the way, the indoor panel is a subpanel and not a main panel so you need to feed it with 4 conductors; 2 hots, 1 neutral and 1 ground. You also need a ground bar kit, do not install the neutral bonding screw. The neutral bus must be kept isolated from the grounded panel box. What is that PVC conduit at the right of the utility feed conduit. It appears it might be for the Grounding Electrode Conductor, but what I see sticking out of it appears to be rather large aluminum wire and only #6 copper is needed.

Another option is to install SER cable to feed the indoor subpanel. No conduit is required, but the cable would need to be protected where it penetrates the steel building surface.
 
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Old 10-25-19, 10:53 AM
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Thanks Joe! I do still need to get the ground bar kits, I have not seen the size I need in store's I'll have to order them. The wire coming up the right side of the meter is my ground. I ordered the wrong wire, but the electric company said they can still use what I ordered and connect it to their ground. I am using 200 ft of 4/0 - 4/0 - 4/0 - 2/0 USE-2. So the 2/0 ground will run to the electric company ground. If I still need to install my own ground rods I will. I might just grab 6' of SER to make it easy to run into the sub panel! I think I saw SER cable at Lowe's.
 
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Old 10-25-19, 10:57 AM
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Also, should I connect the outside cable before my inspection? Or does the power company hook it up to the meter?
 
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Old 10-25-19, 11:28 AM
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T
he wire coming up the right side of the meter is my ground. I ordered the wrong wire, but the electric company said they can still use what I ordered and connect it to their ground.
First of all, I am assuming you are furnishing and installing the conduit and wire to the transformer or pole, is that correct? If so, you only need 3 conductors, 2 hots and 1 neutral, no need to run a ground wire back to the transformer or pole at all so where is this ground the power company has?

I am using 200 ft of 4/0 - 4/0 - 4/0 - 2/0 USE-2

I would have used 2 1/2" PVC conduit from the transformer or pole to the meter socket.

Again, you don't need a ground back to the transformer or pole so all you really need would be 4/0-4/0-2/0 URD (3-wire). It appears you have purchased 4-wire URD and from the pictures that smaller 2/0 conductor is a neutral and not a ground. Note the white stripe, that designates neutral. If it was a ground it would have a green stripe and be smaller. What you purchased is wrong and is typically a utility grade product to feed a 3-phase 4-wire service from a utility transformer. Where is this power company ground you speak of. You need at least one ground rod beneath the meter socket connected with #6 copper wire, that is your Grounding Electrode Conductor. Some jurisdictions will give you the option to prove by testing the resistance to ground is 25 ohms or less OR install a second ground rod at least 6 feet from the first rod. Can't use aluminum there because aluminum ground wire isn't allowed to be terminated within 18" of the earth. Also note that URD CANNOT be used inside your building at all; it lacks the required fire ratings even if installed in conduit.


Also, should I connect the outside cable before my inspection? Or does the power company hook it up to the meter?
Yes, this is part of your install since you are furnishing and installing the conduit and service entrance wiring. The power company's only responsibility would be at the transformer or pole.
 
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Old 10-26-19, 02:28 PM
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Thanks so much for the tips. I pulled off one 4/0 cable from the bunch so now two 4/0 hot and one 2/0 neutral. Added a 6 awg solid copper ground and two ground rods 6í apart. Looked all around for the ground bar but canít find one to fit must be a special order. Same with the SER cable I could only find it online. The SER cable should be 4/0 4/0 2/0 right?
Thanks for your help!
Ryan
 
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Old 10-26-19, 02:36 PM
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Here's a few new pictures!

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Last edited by PJmax; 10-26-19 at 03:04 PM. Reason: resized pictures
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Old 10-30-19, 10:23 AM
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Looks fine so far.

Looked all around for the ground bar but can’t find one to fit must be a special order.
You do not need a ground bar. This is your main panel so the copper Grounding Electrode Conductor must be terminated directly on the neutral bus.

The SER cable should be 4/0 4/0 2/0 right?
Now that the pictures are resized I see there is no main breaker outside, it is in the inside panel. You can use 4/0-4/0-2/0 SEU cable from the feed-thru-lugs to feed the inside main breaker panel.

You also should check with your AHJ about which neutral bus they want the Grounding Electrode Conductor to be terminated on. I think in the outside panel should be fine, but it's possible they'll want to see it in the inside panel where the main breaker is.
 
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