Is this box gangable?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Is this box gangable?
Old box from the mid-50's. Can I attach another outlet box to this box or must I replace it with a 3-gang box?
https://i.imgur.com/vNsZ7qF.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rAo5cGZ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nFXXu9i.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/vNsZ7qF.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rAo5cGZ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/nFXXu9i.jpg

#3
Member
One way or the other you need to make more room for the conductors in that box either by putting an extension (set the box back further in the stud) or change out the box for a bigger box.
It clearly seems that there are far too many conductors in that box. Besides the romex going into it without any strain relief I can also see yellow sheathing in the holes in the box which is taking up even more room in the box and then you also have a device in the box.
Take a look here for box fill calculations. This will help you.
It clearly seems that there are far too many conductors in that box. Besides the romex going into it without any strain relief I can also see yellow sheathing in the holes in the box which is taking up even more room in the box and then you also have a device in the box.
Take a look here for box fill calculations. This will help you.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
On a side note, I hate the way normal galvanized boxed are so cramped. Is it allowable to use those deeper masonry boxes in normal studded walls with sheetrock?
BTW I'm going to be installing 2 countdown timers and a 2-switch.
BTW I'm going to be installing 2 countdown timers and a 2-switch.
#5
Member
Andy not quite sure what type of box you are referring to. Can you post a link to one for a better answer.
Usually under normal conditions an electrical box is an electrical box whether it is to be used for masonry or sheet rock. As long as it is installed properly and not altered in any way and it is not over loaded (conductor wise).
But again a link to the specific box you are referring to would help give you a more definite answer.
Unless we know how many conductors will be in the box along with the timers and switches can't give you an answer - as it also depends on the size of the box you are referring to.
Usually under normal conditions an electrical box is an electrical box whether it is to be used for masonry or sheet rock. As long as it is installed properly and not altered in any way and it is not over loaded (conductor wise).
But again a link to the specific box you are referring to would help give you a more definite answer.
BTW I'm going to be installing 2 countdown timers and a 2-switch.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
These masonry boxes have an extra inch of depth but they don't have mounting plates on the side. https://www.garvinindustries.com/ele...boxes/tb-335-g
Leviton countdown timers https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-1LZ/301778947
Leviton two-switch controller https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-0WS/100356887
Update: I think I found my answer! It can be used if it fits. Actually considered MORE safe. https://diy.stackexchange.com/questi...in-a-stud-wall
Leviton countdown timers https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-1LZ/301778947
Leviton two-switch controller https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-0WS/100356887
Update: I think I found my answer! It can be used if it fits. Actually considered MORE safe. https://diy.stackexchange.com/questi...in-a-stud-wall
#7
Cut-in gem boxes are gangable and come in 3-1/2" depths.
Cut in gem boxes
Yes... you can use those masonry boxes in the wall but you'll need to come up with a mounting method to fasten them.
Cut in gem boxes
Yes... you can use those masonry boxes in the wall but you'll need to come up with a mounting method to fasten them.
#8
Member
Thread Starter
A mounting method to fasten? I'm thinking I'll just drill some extra holes through the steel as needed then use drywall screws. I'll use a wood spacer if it needs to be further out from the stud.
#9
Member
I'll just drill some extra holes through the steel as needed then use drywall screws.
This is not a good idea to do. Reason is that you are altering the integrity of the box. The box as constructed by the manufacturer has been approved by "UL" as it has been constructed. Altering the box in any manner especially by drilling holes in it may cause you to fail inspection and may also cause a hazard in the future.
#14
Yep. As far as I know, "1900" is just trade slang for a 4" square box, I know not where the terminology came from, but I am sure there must be an interesting story behind it.
Once again, Google is my friend.
http://electricalslang.com/Slang/1900%20box
Once again, Google is my friend.
Top Definition
This electrical box is usually called a 1900 Box because that was the original part number from Bossert almost a hundred years ago. It is the most common box used when a simple SwitchBox is not large enough. The part number shown below is only one of many configurations and you need to ask for the size of the knockout (determined by the conduit size) and if the user wants a small (1-1/4"), a standard (1-1/2") or a deep (2 1/8") box. The user also has to specify how it will be mounted: stud ears, etc.
This electrical box is usually called a 1900 Box because that was the original part number from Bossert almost a hundred years ago. It is the most common box used when a simple SwitchBox is not large enough. The part number shown below is only one of many configurations and you need to ask for the size of the knockout (determined by the conduit size) and if the user wants a small (1-1/4"), a standard (1-1/2") or a deep (2 1/8") box. The user also has to specify how it will be mounted: stud ears, etc.
http://electricalslang.com/Slang/1900%20box