Dedicated circuit won't turn back on

Reply

  #1  
Old 02-23-20, 12:31 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 16
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Dedicated circuit won't turn back on

I occassionally turn a circuit on and off from the circuit breaker and recently, without any changes to what's connected, the circuit won't turn back on, it keeps going back to off. The only thing connected to it is the outlet for the washer. I unplugged the washer and it still won't turn on. Any thoughts on where I can debug next?
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 02-23-20, 12:45 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 55,114
Received 585 Votes on 551 Posts
keeps going back to off
Do you mean the circuit breaker is tripping ?
Is it a standard breaker or does it have pushbuttons on it ?
 
  #3  
Old 02-23-20, 02:08 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 16
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
The circuit is tripping. If I turn it on it immediately turns off. It's a standard breaker. Thank you so much for your replies PJmax!
 
  #4  
Old 02-23-20, 02:14 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 55,114
Received 585 Votes on 551 Posts
If the only item on that circuit is the washer and it's unplugged.... I'd remove and check the wiring on the receptacle for problems. Other than that.... you will need a meter to check for shorted wiring.


Are you comfortable opening the panel ?
You need to remove the wire from the problem breaker to see if the breakers is actually tripping or just not resetting.
 
  #5  
Old 02-23-20, 04:56 PM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 13,120
Received 87 Votes on 78 Posts
It is possible the breaker has gone bad.
 
  #6  
Old 02-23-20, 09:48 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 16
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I did open the washer receptacle, looked like it was still connected fine. I've never opened a circuit breaker panel before. Any recommended personal safety equipment for that?
 
  #7  
Old 02-24-20, 04:08 AM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 8,014
Received 135 Votes on 123 Posts
Just unbolt the cover. No special cautions with that. Once cover is off don't touch anything. Look at the offending breaker. Does it look burned or loose? Then shut down the main breaker (whole house without power), then you can put you hand in there and toggle and remove breaker. I'm betting the breaker is faulty. Not uncommon. You must replace with the same type. Look for physical format and electrical specs. Bring your old one with you when you buy new one. Compare both.

edit...When you remove cover and shut down main power, look for loose neutral connections.
 
  #8  
Old 02-24-20, 04:29 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Ct.,USA
Posts: 1,373
Received 46 Votes on 40 Posts
If you are sure there are no other loads on the breaker, the problem is between the outlet and breaker. If you can reset the breaker with one wire disconnected from the outlet, the outlet is defective. If you can reset the breaker with the wire disconnected from the breaker, the cable between the breaker and outlet is defective. If you can't reset the breaker with the wire disconnected from the breaker, the breaker is defective. Power to circuits can be removed via a breaker. While power can be removed to the whole house at the breaker panel to replace a breaker, it is not normally done because some digital devices require resetting after power interruption. If you are not confident and knowledgeable about electricity, call an electrician to replace the breaker..
 
GroundCurrent voted this post useful.
  #9  
Old 02-24-20, 08:38 PM
K
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 16
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Well, I unplugged the hot wire of the receptacle and tried again, didnít work. Then went to the breaker and opened it up, didnít look like anything was wrong. Everything connected and nothing looks fried. Itís the third red one from the top. Possibly crazy question, the bottom four red circuits arenít being used, can I just switch the hot wire from the broken circuit to one of the ones not being used e.g. 4th from the bottom? Would I need to touch the neutrals at all?
Name:  unnamed.jpg
Views: 111
Size:  1.46 MB
 
  #10  
Old 02-25-20, 04:07 AM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 8,014
Received 135 Votes on 123 Posts
Maybe it's just the picture, but it look to me like all are being used. What you propose is fine, but all those breakers have wires coming from them. They must be used for something. If you do swap out with one of the others it and works then you know it's the breaker and not the circuit.
 
  #11  
Old 02-25-20, 09:16 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 55,114
Received 585 Votes on 551 Posts
It's still not locking on ?
Make sure the breaker stays in off. Remove the wire from the breaker. It it still won't set.... it's bad.

If you aren't comfortable..... you can turn the main breaker off. I don't push that as a recommendation as I've had older panels where once the main was tripped it wouldn't reset.
 
  #12  
Old 02-25-20, 04:43 PM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 13,120
Received 87 Votes on 78 Posts
The breakers look odd to me. They look like FPE breakers but I see an ITE breaker at the top. (black) What brand panel do you have?
 
  #13  
Old 02-25-20, 05:39 PM
CasualJoe's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: United States
Posts: 10,352
Received 45 Votes on 36 Posts
The breakers look odd to me. They look like FPE breakers but I see an ITE breaker at the top. (black) What brand panel do you have?
My thought too except I don't see an ITE breaker. I thought they looked a bit like Zinsco style Sylvania breakers, but the red handles don't make sense either.
 
  #14  
Old 02-25-20, 06:14 PM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 13,120
Received 87 Votes on 78 Posts
except I don't see an ITE breaker.
Well, I don't see the entire breaker, but I see the "GO" or GOULD and "I-T" of I-T-E on the 15 amp at the top of the picture.
 
  #15  
Old 02-25-20, 06:43 PM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 8,014
Received 135 Votes on 123 Posts
What's the difference? They fit. And they were working and still do. Manufacturers will make breakers to cross other brands.
To the OP...for the cost of a new breaker, replace it. Even if it still does not work, you'll know for sure that it is or is not the breaker. If it still does not work then you know you have a problem down stream.
 
  #16  
Old 02-25-20, 06:53 PM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 13,120
Received 87 Votes on 78 Posts
What's the difference? They fit. And they were working and still do. Manufacturers will make breakers to cross other brands.
Panels are listed to use only the breakers approved by the manufacturer. Even if they fit, using the incorrect breaker is a code violation and will likely void any warranty of the panel or breaker
 
CasualJoe voted this post useful.
  #17  
Old 02-25-20, 07:02 PM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 8,014
Received 135 Votes on 123 Posts
Not to argue the point but there are in fact breakers made by third party that are approved in boxes by other manufactures. If I'm wrong please provide facts that prove as such.

Reference : https://www.relectric.com/blog/2019/...terchangeable/



edit...I have had to replace breakers myself and had to use other brands. Recently with the install of a new furnace the installers had to buy a breaker of another manufacturer of the box. The whole install had to be inspected by the town. He was very particular and passed the breaker but not another junction box that was just fine, but insisted they change it. So minor it was a joke.
 
  #18  
Old 02-26-20, 03:19 AM
pcboss's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 15,016
Received 42 Votes on 37 Posts
The best spot for that FPE Stablok panel is a landfill.
 
  #19  
Old 02-26-20, 05:57 AM
A
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 1,452
Received 17 Votes on 15 Posts
The red handles look like old Murray (pre Crouse-Hinds) twins. Need to see what's on the panel label for what is listed to be installed but the modern replacement would be Siemens.
 
  #20  
Old 03-01-20, 03:20 PM
CasualJoe's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: United States
Posts: 10,352
Received 45 Votes on 36 Posts
Well, I don't see the entire breaker, but I see the "GO" or GOULD and "I-T" of I-T-E on the 15 amp at the top of the picture.
You are good!

I am still puzzled by the red handled breakers, they just don't look like FPEs to me or old A-H Murrays either.
 
  #21  
Old 03-01-20, 06:42 PM
A
Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 1,452
Received 17 Votes on 15 Posts
Looks like the same Murray tandem for sale on eBay listed as a MM2020 - https://www.ebay.com/itm/MURRAY-MM20...R/324078943244
 
  #22  
Old 03-02-20, 10:11 AM
CasualJoe's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: United States
Posts: 10,352
Received 45 Votes on 36 Posts
I think you are right, when I looked closely they do look the same as those in the OP's panel. Also interesting that the used ones on Ebay were of the CTL type with a rejection clip.
 
  #23  
Old 03-02-20, 03:13 PM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 13,120
Received 87 Votes on 78 Posts
but there are in fact breakers made by third party that are approved in boxes by other manufactures.
Yes, that is true. But they have to be approved by UL or some other listing lab. A manufacture can not just say they are approved.
 
CasualJoe voted this post useful.
  #24  
Old 03-02-20, 04:15 PM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 8,014
Received 135 Votes on 123 Posts
Agreed. Of course they need to be approved and as my link showed the UL approved breakers are listed.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: