120V baseboard heater wiring question

Reply

  #1  
Old 03-23-20, 06:29 AM
E
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 29
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
120V baseboard heater wiring question

The heater Im installing is only 750W so it will draw 6.3A max. Im using a 20A circuit that used to power a jetted tub so I know I have enough power available. Question: The heater will be against a basement wall with sheetrock that has a moisture barrier (plastic sheet) directly behind it. Can I run the wire (14-2 romex) directly in between the moisture barrier and the sheetrock? Im thinking this is fine but would really appreciate your input. Thanks!

EDIT: In case it matters, behind the plastic barrier is pink insulation then a concrete wall.
 

Last edited by epruett; 03-23-20 at 07:15 AM.
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 03-23-20, 07:15 AM
A
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 3,819
Received 44 Votes on 42 Posts
Not good.
The cable has to be at least 1-1/4 inches back from the rear of the sheetrock (typically going through the studs) or must have a protective at least 1/16 inch thick steel strip in front of it to inhibit puncturing by nails or screws that might be added later to hold trim to the wall.
 
  #3  
Old 03-23-20, 07:22 AM
maarkr's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 340
Received 6 Votes on 4 Posts
14/2 on a 20A circuit? thought it should be 12/2.
 
CasualJoe voted this post useful.
  #4  
Old 03-23-20, 07:43 AM
E
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 29
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Got it. Is there a jacketed wire that will work in this situation? Conduit? I really dont want to break the barrier but I do want it to be safe!

On the 12-2, Im aware of this but this is only for 6.3A and is hardwired so it is very safe to use 14-2. If it were a receptacle I would run 12-2.
 
  #5  
Old 03-23-20, 08:10 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Canada
Posts: 976
Received 92 Votes on 87 Posts
You should replace the breaker with 1 15 amp breaker.
It is the wire size that determines the breaker required, not the load.
 
  #6  
Old 03-23-20, 08:19 AM
E
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 29
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Manden: Understood and thank you. Do you have any advice on the wiring issue?
 
  #7  
Old 03-23-20, 09:23 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 55,250
Received 599 Votes on 564 Posts
in between the moisture barrier and the sheetrock?
Is this a regular 4" studded type wall ?
How deep is the wall ?
 
  #8  
Old 03-23-20, 10:00 AM
E
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 29
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yes 2x4 wall beside the concrete wall.
 
  #9  
Old 03-23-20, 10:12 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 55,250
Received 599 Votes on 564 Posts
You're fishing the wire down a 2x4 wall and coming thru the vapor barrier into the back of the heater.... correct ? Based on that I don't see the need for any nailplates.
 
  #10  
Old 03-23-20, 10:20 AM
E
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 29
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Fishing down from the top in between the sheetrock and vapor barrier. So, the wire is right behind the sheetrock.
 
  #11  
Old 03-23-20, 10:37 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 55,250
Received 599 Votes on 564 Posts
You have a 2x4 studded wall. You have a vapor barrier.... like poly sheeting over the studs and then the sheetrock. You're going to fish between the poly and the sheetrock ? That's not going to be terribly easy.
 
CasualJoe voted this post useful.
  #12  
Old 03-23-20, 01:15 PM
E
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 29
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Actually it wasnt that bad, the fish tape went right thru there and the wire did too. I don have access enough to drill holes in the top of the 2x4 without a right angle drill..
 
  #13  
Old 03-24-20, 08:23 AM
E
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 29
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
OK Ive got a plan to improve my situation, Im going to run armored 12/2 mc cable behind the sheetrock, and then 14/2 the rest of the way. Also, Im changing the 20A breaker to a 15A because all of the wiring from this breaker is 14ga.

Thanks for the input!
 
  #14  
Old 03-24-20, 10:47 AM
A
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 3,819
Received 44 Votes on 42 Posts
Special note: If the wall was already built then it is never required to break it open for the sole purpose of positioning or protecting or fastening a new cable. So here you do not have to make sure the cable is 1-1/4 inches back or fish a protective strip or plate but you should not specifically try to get the wire up against the back of the drywall.
 
  #15  
Old 03-24-20, 11:33 AM
E
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 29
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hey Allen - because I cant drill the header (no clearance) the only reasonable way to route the new wire is in between the sheetrock and the plastic sheet. Are you concerned about fire? The cable I bought to install is in aluminum conduit (MC type).
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: