Electrical Problem - Need Help!!

Reply

  #1  
Old 04-01-20, 06:01 PM
L
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 3
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Electrical Problem - Need Help!!

Hey guys!

I have an issue where there is no voltage going from the wire at the junction box to the light switch. I checked with a AC detector, all wires that comes to the junction box beeps EXCEPT for the wire that is going to the light switch.

I assumed that the wire might have been bad somewhere from the junction box to the switch so I disconnect the old wire and installed a new wire, check with a detector again, but still no beep....

Any ideas? Please let me know! Thank youuu!
 
  #2  
Old 04-01-20, 06:44 PM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: United States
Posts: 13,808
Received 253 Votes on 221 Posts
If the light switch is off one wire will not have any voltage on it. If the switch is on and the wire still does not have voltage, then you may have a faulty switch. Are you sure you have voltage at the switch?
 
leeyang voted this post useful.
  #3  
Old 04-02-20, 06:02 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Ct.,USA
Posts: 1,913
Received 101 Votes on 88 Posts
Check the continuity of the new wire before and after installing. Wire could be breaking during installation.
 
leeyang voted this post useful.
  #4  
Old 04-02-20, 06:44 AM
Geochurchi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: United States
Posts: 4,964
Received 88 Votes on 83 Posts
Hi, through the detector away, get a multimeter, itís doubtful a cable would have gone bad, what is the problem you are having? is it a light fixture that is not working, have you replaced the bulb with a known good bulb ?
How many cables in the box? Post a pic.
Geo
 
leeyang voted this post useful.
  #5  
Old 04-02-20, 08:17 AM
L
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 3
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
There is no power at the switch. Correct me if i'm wrong but there should be a constant 120AC volt going to the light switch. Turning the light switch on, completes that connection and turns the light ON.

Currently, the wire the leads from the junction box to the light switch have no voltage going through it, which it should.. Correct?
 
  #6  
Old 04-02-20, 09:13 AM
M
Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,522
Received 159 Votes on 146 Posts
Yes the switch should have 120 volts across it when open.
0 volts across it when closed.

I am having a problem understanding what is going on here.
You have a junction box with 120 volts going into it.Correct?
It supplies a number of circuits. Correct?
Is the hot wire that goes to the switch tied to the hot wire 120 volt in with a murret/wire nut?
Have you removed that wire nut to be sure there is a good connection in it?
Then this wire goes to one side of the switch and the other side of the switch goes to your light fixture. Correct?
 
  #7  
Old 04-02-20, 09:34 AM
W
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 6,741
Received 22 Votes on 21 Posts
Is what you are calling a junction box actually the ceiling box where the light fixture is located?

Is power from the branch circuit going first to the light fixture or to the switch first?
 
  #8  
Old 04-02-20, 02:14 PM
L
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 3
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
manden,

Yes from what I can see, the hot wire is connected to the wire leading to the switch. ALL wires at the junction box/light fixture (sorry if i'm using the wrong terminology) has voltage going through them with the breaker on, EXCEPT for the wire going to one of the light switch.
 
  #9  
Old 04-03-20, 09:22 AM
CasualJoe's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: United States
Posts: 10,765
Received 97 Votes on 87 Posts
Yes from what I can see, the hot wire is connected to the wire leading to the switch. ALL wires at the junction box/light fixture (sorry if i'm using the wrong terminology) has voltage going through them with the breaker on, EXCEPT for the wire going to one of the light switch.
Then that is where you start troubleshooting with a meter or tester, NOT a non-contact detector! If that's what you were using you are making this simple test very difficult by using a terribly unreliable detector. Those detectors are a high profit item that the box stores push. They are a decent quick check, but nearly always need to be followed with a real check with a meter or tester.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: