replacing an electronic ballast. the replacement sent is a dimming philips hf-r 136 tld eii. i do not have a dimmer switch. can i use it without a dimmer switch and what do i have with the contacts marked - + dc. Should they be left open or short circuited? [color=#4e5f70]Moderator note: member located in the UK[/color]

Please look at the picture and tell me if the black cable needs conduit around it. This is a continuation of my last post with a question about new information. I have run the cable though from beneath the kitchen sink, up through the exterior wall, and through the attic. With a vaulted ceiling, that was difficult. The big problem is that the cabinets and counter top are permanently installed up against the exterior wall. The sink is directly beneath a window. The cable comes down between the vertical 2x4s next to the sink. I cannot get the cable between the back of the counter/drawer unit and the wall. So, I removed the drawers and drilled a hole through both the back of the counter/drawer unit and the dry wall of the exterior wall. The cable enters the counter/drawer unit from the wall. From there, there is a hole to the area beneath the sink. The heater will be mounted there. I will post a picture of the cable inside the counter top/drawer unit. That cable will not normally be touched by anything. But it CAN be touched if the drawer is stuffed to the point of being overfull. Do I need to get some flexible conduit and run the cable through that. If so, I can solidly attach it to the side going into the sink area, but the part exiting into the wall will be difficult. I performed the steps for an attachment and will see if this works when the question is submitted. Edit after post: From what I can see this looks good, meaning the post and picture. If more pictures are needed I can do that. Edit again: When the top drawer is slid in all the way, the back does not touch the cable. There is clearance.