Sub panel for pool house

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  #1  
Old 05-30-20, 06:57 AM
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Sub panel for pool house

Need to run a sub panel to pool house (8x12) which will serve some high hat LEDís for bar, interior lighting, outlets, a mini fridge, possibly a timer for low voltage landscape lighting around pool deck, possibly a pair of speakers, or WiFi receiver if I go wireless.

all pool equipment on separate breakers run straight to the pool. Having pool heater wired by electrician next week with 60amp breaker. Thinking of having him install another breaker for pool house sub panel and running the wire for that myself to sub. What size breaker do you recommend? Was thinking 40amp? Or is that overkill. I already have a 20 amp breaker run to my basement (main panel is in garage) which is only used for a fluorescent shop light and an outlet (originally run for power saw but never used for that), I could easily run off of that but thinking it wouldnít be enough amps. Also I believe I ran 12 gauge romex for that, pulled the wire through before walls were Sheetrocked when house was being built 20 years ago.

can I use direct bury cable where it exits the house to get to the pool house or do I need conduit?
 

Last edited by daronson; 05-30-20 at 06:59 AM. Reason: Left something out
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Old 05-30-20, 08:32 AM
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I think you would be fine running a 30 amp circuit for the sub-panel which would require using #10 wire. There is nothing wrong using a 40 amp circuit but that will require using #8 wire. I would recommend running two hots, neutral and ground (120/240v) to utilize the full use of the panel.
 
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Old 05-30-20, 08:39 AM
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40 or 50 amps should be fine. You can use conduit with 4 conductors or 3-wire direct burial UF-B cable such as 8-3 fed from 40 amp breaker. I would use 3 - #8s and 1 - #10 THHN/THWN-2 in 1" PVC schedule 40 conduit and feed it with a 50 amp breaker if it were mine. You will need to add a ground bar kit to the subpanel and do not bond the neutral bus to the panel box. You will also need to install at least one 8 foot ground rod connected to the ground bar with #6 copper, I prefer #6 bare stranded.

Tolyn is correct that a 30 amp circuit would probably work. I am looking more toward an unknown future such as an area for food service like several crock pots all on at the same time.
 
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Old 07-20-20, 04:47 PM
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Electrician installed a 20amp breaker in
main panel and ran through basement, trenched in yard with conduit, and into pool shed. I side shed, bottom corner, 1 hot, 1 return and 1 ground. All 12awg and sheathed.

I will do the rest myself, was going to install a 4x4 metal box with metal cover and run all leads (5 in total) from there. Does that need to be a minimum height? 3 feet? I will then run romex (do I need 12awg or will 14awg suffice?) to outlet and piggyback to 3-5 more outlets. Again, minimum height? And do I need metal outlet boxes or is plastic ok? This is an outdoor structure, so GFI outlets?

4 leads will be switched. Again, do I need a metal gang box for switches? Any particular kind of switches? I have to wire a ceiling fan with light, switched separately so thatís 2 of the 4 switches. Then I will have a pair of lantern lights outside shed and 3 3Ē LED recessed lights on bar overhang. These will be exterior. Do all of the outside boxes need to be metal? And i know enough about electrical to be dangerous... am I correct in that I need 1 lead to the jcn box for each of these switches?

thanks. Please let me know if any of this is unclear or needs further details for you to answer.

will be running 4 leads from
 
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Old 07-20-20, 07:56 PM
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Wow..... quite a change from your original post.
You were asking about a sub panel which would indicate multiple circuit availability to end up with only one circuit run.

At the very least your electrician should have run three wires and a ground OR three wire UF and you would have had two 20A circuits

All 12awg and sheathed
What is that..... UF cable pulled in conduit.

There is no working height for the splice box. It can go anywhere but must remain accessible.
Since you are working with a 20A circuit..... all wiring must be #12.

You can use all plastic boxes for switches and receptacles inside the shed.
You should split the circuit by sending power to the switches for lighting and to one GFI receptacle. You can connect additional standard receptacles to the LOAD side of the GFI receptacle. This way the one receptacle will protect them all.

Outside you use diecast weatherproof boxes.
 
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Old 07-22-20, 02:46 PM
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After speaking to a few people it sounded like I didnít need multiple circuits for what I want to put in the pool shed, hence the single circuit. The 3 wires are run from garage to basement in conduit, then romex through the basement, and Back to 3 wires buried outside in conduit To the shed. How would a 2nd hot lead give me 2 circuits? Do you think I need, or should run, a second circuit? I will run 1 lead to GFI as mentioned in prior post And piggyback other outlets off of that one. So does that mean only the first outlet needs to be a true gfi with the reset buttons?

attaching a pic of the wires that were run

 
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Old 07-22-20, 07:31 PM
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So does that mean only the first outlet needs to be a true gfi with the reset buttons?
Yes...... that is correct.

With the addition of one more wire..... you would have a second circuit.
Easy to install in the conduit but you would need to change the cable from 12-2 to 12-3.
 
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