new breaker

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  #1  
Old 06-16-20, 08:10 PM
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new breaker

i am wanting to run a new breaker from my main box so i can power my shed and when i open it up, there is no "tabs" to attach the breaker to. I have no idea what these things are called to search for them to buy. im including a generic picture with the "tabs" circled and a picture showing my box. I will also include all the information i have on my box type.



main box ( with one breaker removed to show inside. )

Note: I am aware that my main box is live and will not attempt anything without having the electric company cut the power.
 
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Old 06-16-20, 08:21 PM
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That's a main disconnect panel with only 4 spaces. There should be another load center.
 
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Old 06-16-20, 09:40 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

We can see the lower main disconnect panel is designed to hold two 2Pole breakers.
We can see the 100A on right that probably feeds a sub panel.
You said the breaker on the left was removed to show the bus bars.

Is the breaker on the left connected/used for something ?
For you add another circuit there..... you'd need to replace that disconnect panel with a larger one.
 
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Old 06-16-20, 09:44 PM
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The 100A is on a sub panel to the house. The left breaker is a 50A that has a sub panel to the garage. We are trying to run a 70A breaker down to a shed on another sub panel to run welding equipment. I guess there is no way around it and i will just have to spend some extra money haha. thank you.
 
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Old 06-17-20, 07:48 AM
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I guess there is no way around it and i will just have to spend some extra money haha.
Yes, but not too much. Just replace the 4 space panel with a 6 or 8 space panel and you are good to go. By the way, your existing disconnect panel is a GE and it has a 100 amp Murray breaker in it. From this point forward, try to do things correctly.
 
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Old 06-17-20, 08:53 AM
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So, the total load could now be 100 + 50 + 70 ? What is protecting those aluminum feeders? Is there a outside service breaker?
 
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Old 06-17-20, 11:10 AM
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Ive noticed that there is a lot of problems with the current system and sadly it was like that when we got the house. The total load will exceed the 200 the box would be rated for, but i have doubts that the total household will draw more than 150A at one time so the shop should be fine. I will also say that i am leaving out a lot of details because i do not know them. I am posting on here in place of my father, who knows more than me, hoping to find a solution to his problem since he isnt internet adept. His father was an electrician and will be coming over in a few days to help us out, but we were trying to get a head start and get what pieces we need.
 
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Old 06-17-20, 04:27 PM
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You do not add up the breakers to see if the service is large enough. The proper process is called a demand load calculation.
 
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Old 06-17-20, 06:37 PM
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There is no evidence yet of a main breaker. So, both a max load calculation and an ID of the feeder size would be needed.
 
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Old 06-18-20, 06:29 AM
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You should do your math and load analysis first. If you need help from your grandfather, then wait until he comes over befrore buying pieces. You could get a rude awakening and find out that pieces bought now won't work. If you had tried to install pieces partially then they might not be returnable to the store.

Have you found the first whole house disconnect switch or breaker yet? Possibly in a separate unsealed compartment under the meter?

If you find that you do not need a service upgrade (shown by the load analysis) you might find it possible to move breakers around in the main panel, add a subpanel below it. Then youw would not have to call the power company to turn off the power which adds much complexity in terms of logistics, timing, and scheduling.
 
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Old 06-20-20, 05:54 PM
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Have you found the first whole house disconnect switch or breaker yet? Possibly in a separate unsealed compartment under the meter?
This is a NEMA 3R raintight panel and when considering the OP's statement
Note: I am aware that my main box is live and will not attempt anything without having the electric company cut the power.
we will find that this raintight panel is the main panel with main disconnects and is located under the meter.

I still don't see any huge issue here.

If you find that you do not need a service upgrade (shown by the load analysis) you might find it possible to move breakers around in the main panel, add a subpanel below it. Then youw would not have to call the power company to turn off the power which adds much complexity in terms of logistics, timing, and scheduling.
The OP has shown us his 4 space main panel, moving breakers around is not an option.
 
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