Strip insulation from terminals of sub-C battery cells

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  #1  
Old 08-17-20, 11:54 AM
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Strip insulation from terminals of sub-C battery cells

Hi All.

I've bought 12 sub-C cells to rebuild the battery pack of a home appliance, a Roomba floor vacuum cleaner robot. It should be fairly straightforward to solder the cells end-to-end in series, then to the battery pack's internal terminal leads. But I've hit a small snag.

Is there a smart, quick way to remove the insulation on the terminals? I can see it's there for a good reason: some users might want to remove only part of it, depending on the kind of connection that want to make. For me though, I might as well remove it all, since the shell of the battery pack will provide adequate insulation and there'll be nothing else in contact with which to make a 'random' connection / short circuit. The black rubber / plastic insulation covering the terminals seems to be on tight, and it's fixed to the cell body where the terminal attaches: it won't just pull off see photo.

Any ideas gratefully received. Thanks!




 
  #2  
Old 08-17-20, 12:38 PM
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Looks like heat shrink tubing. try a razor knife to slit and remove. Note that these tabs tend to be made of stainless steel; takes a special flux to get solder to flow and stick.
 
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Old 08-17-20, 12:39 PM
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Most battery cells end caps are plated steel so solder doesn't stick well. You spot weld to them or use them in a battery holder with spring loaded contacts.

It looks like heat shrink tubing on your cells. I'd just cut it off with a box cutter knife. Run the sharp knife firmly down the length and peel the shrink tubing off.
 
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Old 08-17-20, 01:17 PM
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Great thanks! Spot welding is a bit beyond my toolbox and ability, but I'll investigate the special flux for s/steel suggested by _telecoms guy_ Much appreciate your info, thanks.
 
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Old 08-17-20, 01:30 PM
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Have ordered some of the special S/Steel flux.

Much appreciate all your info thanks so much.

 
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Old 08-17-20, 09:39 PM
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The black shrink tubing is only on the leads for shipping purposes so they can't short.
The leads should be tin plated steel and standard resin core solder will be ok.
 
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Old 08-18-20, 09:29 AM
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Oh, that's interesting. Bth points make perfect sense. I had wondered whether the shrink tubing was so firmly attached because some users might want to remove it only partly, for example to retain it on the outside and solder on the inside.

I'll have a go later today with my ordinary solder flux and see how I get on. I'll tin the contacts with a knife it's pretty hard going, which is why I wondered earlier whether there was an easier way. Perhaps I just need a fresh blade!

Thanks again v much.
 
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Old 08-18-20, 10:20 PM
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I'll tin the contacts with a knife
Better if used a soldering iron.

You can heat the shrink with a lighter. It will get soft and peel/slide right off.
 
 

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