Installing switch/outlet combo

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Old 10-24-20, 09:55 AM
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Installing switch/outlet combo


New member hear. First post. Trying to replace an old light switch with a Leviton T5225 combo switch/outlet. So what you see in the drawing is my current setup. Each hole in the box has a black and a white. One side has a red as well. The two blacks and connected and ran to the switch, bottom screw. Red goes to the top screw. Two whites are capped.

I want to the new switch to control the light and for the outlet to be always on. If I'm looking everything correct, I think I'm supposed to break the tab, connect the red wire to the single brass screw and separate the black wires and connect one to each black screw. Idk if I need to do anything with the neutral. I have a screw and could branch a single wire off of the capped end to the silver screw, if I should.

Wires themselves don't bother me, but this setup is not what I'm used to seeing. Thanks for all the help and I'm glad to finally post instead of just viewing.

*I will be adding a ground before completion.
**I did search, and while there are a bunch of threads dealing with these outlets, I did not see any with a wire setup like mine.

 

Last edited by StevenQ38; 10-24-20 at 10:07 AM. Reason: Adding pics and info
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Old 10-24-20, 10:16 AM
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Actually, after looking again, I think maybe one black brings in the power, and the other carries it down the line..? Idk. Do I NEED two hots for this kind of switch?

Could I split the one hot into two? Something like this?

(White is dotted because if I need it)

 
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Old 10-24-20, 10:32 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

You didn't post the exact combo you're using but most of them have a common hot power connection screw that feeds the switch and receptacle. Your problem is I don't see a ground available in that box.
 
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Old 10-24-20, 11:05 AM
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It's a Leviton T5225. It's in the post somewhere. I'll be putting a ground in, so on worries on that.

 

Last edited by StevenQ38; 10-24-20 at 11:09 AM. Reason: Adding pics
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Old 10-24-20, 11:11 AM
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Based on your pic, red load goes to brass, black hot goes to either black screw, do NOT break tab, and then connect the ground.

This will keep the outlet hot and still allow the switch to control the light?
 
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Old 10-24-20, 11:19 AM
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Sorry...didn't see the model posted. Putting a ground into where ?


 
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Old 10-24-20, 11:30 AM
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What is this half black half white?
 
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Old 10-24-20, 11:41 AM
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That half black wire is neutral as shown on the end.
On the back of the device there should be an N on that terminal.
 
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Old 10-24-20, 11:50 AM
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Gotcha. Probably just half black so it shows up easier. Ok then I shouldn't have any issues.

As for grounding, im gonna run a wire down to a water pipe about 4 to 6 feet below the outlet. Been thinking about using the GFCI version of this switch too, just in case. I don't care about what's plugged in, it's a small water fountain. It's only 2 prong. But, for 10 extra bucks, the extra piece of mind...
 
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Old 10-25-20, 05:45 AM
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Steven for added safety you may want to consider being sure you provide a "drip loop" like one would use for a fish tank. It is not a device but the way you allow/lay the power cord of the fountain.

Take a look here. It shows you what I mean. If for any reason water were to get onto the power cord gravity would cause it to run into the receptacle possibly causing a dead short. Using a drip loop will prevent this. Take a quick look. You will see what I mean.
 
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Old 10-25-20, 06:28 AM
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Unless you are connecting the ground to within 5 foot of where the domestic water enters the building you cannot ground to a water line.
 
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