Pressure Switch Won't Cut Off

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  #1  
Old 10-30-20, 10:46 AM
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Pressure Switch Won't Cut Off

My well pressure switch would not cut out so I replaced it with a brand new one (on at 40 lbs, off at 60 lbs) and made sure my pressure tank was at 38 lbs. No Joy. I tested all wires and found that all connections except one were 120v, as they should be. The cut off switch wire is at 48v. Since everything above ground that I can test seems good, should I assume there is a short down the well hole? Attached is a photo of the inside of my control panel. As stated, all is 120v except the red wire on the far left of the relay (SW), and the white wire on the right side of the little box in the upper left of the panel.

Second question: My pump motor has been running constantly this whole time, even when there is no draw of water. Isn't that going to hurt the motor, or is it okay? Pressure is at 75 lbs, which my lines can handle. A well guy said my pump moves enough water by the motor to keep it cool even though there is no draw, but I don't understand how any water is moving at all if there is not draw up the hole.


Control Box
 

Last edited by PJmax; 10-30-20 at 11:12 AM. Reason: labeled pic
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  #2  
Old 10-30-20, 11:00 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

No.... your pump should not be running continuously.
You replaced the pressure switch..... not the Franklin control box..... correct ?

That box is incorrectly wired. There should be 240vAC on L1 and L2.
There should not be any incoming power wire on the yellow line.
You need proper connectors on the incoming wiring.
You need to determine what that third incoming power wire is. (pink X)
 
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Old 10-30-20, 11:43 AM
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Thank you for getting back to me.
I have 120v coming into L1 and 120v coming into L2. Is that correct, for a total of 240v? Or are you saying I should have 240v coming into each one?
As to the YEL, there is a big yellow line coming in which I *think* comes up from the motor down the hole. There is also a dark green wire going into YEL with the yellow pump wire. I *assumed* that was a neutral, but I’m not an electrician so I don’t know. If that is the wire you are talking about which should not be in there, I can take it out but where should I put it?
When you reference “(pink X)” I *assume you are talking about the pink wire behind the relay that looks like it might be going into the YEL but I don’t think it is. It just looks like that from the front. It is not going into YEL and is wired to the capacitors in back. If (pink X) means something else, I don’t understand.
I just ran out there to look again before responding, and retested. Everything is the 120v or the 48v like I said in my initial post, *except* RED is actually 277v !!! Don’t know if that makes a difference.
Also, I don’t have any grounds hooked up to the ground screws like your diagram has.
In any event, if you could comment on the foregoing, I’d appreciate it. I can go out there, kill all the power and try to re-wire everything according to your diagram if you think that would work.
Thanks again, Jim.
 
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Old 10-30-20, 11:51 AM
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Look at the BX cable coming in the front left corner. There are three wires in it.
One wire on L1.... correct.
One wire on L2 .... correct.
One wire on Y ..... not correct.
You need to remove that wire that I marked with a pink X.
Between L1 and L2 you should measure 240vAC.
 
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Old 10-30-20, 11:53 AM
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Okay, I understand. One last question: Since the wire I'm removing is green, should I screw it into the ground screw to the lower left of the box?
 
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Old 10-30-20, 11:57 AM
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Green.... ........ that poor motor.

Green is supposed to be ground.
You need to confirm 100% that it is ground before you use it as ground.
 
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Old 10-30-20, 12:05 PM
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According to your diagram, I think that should be a ground. I will kill power, take it out, turn power back on and test it. I will be back in a few. Thanks. Jim.
 
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Old 10-30-20, 12:34 PM
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I don't know how to confirm 100% that is is ground.

However, I killed the power, took it out of YEL, turned the power back on and tested it. It was dead. I then killed the power and hooked it to the green ground screw and turned the power back on. It was still dead and showed continuity from it and it's ground screw over to the ground screws on the right. There is a ground wire going from the galvanized water pipe up to the bottom back of the control panel. So I think it's all good there?

However, SW is still showing 48v, as is the white wire on the right side of the Line Contactor. I took the cover off the Pressure Switch and tested those wires. They are both 48v. The red one has been 48v but the white one used to be 120v. It's 120v coming into the control panel at L2 but it's only 48v at the Pressure Switch.

RED is still 277v.

Hmmmmm?
 
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Old 10-30-20, 12:39 PM
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Your pressure switch connects with two wires to SW and L2.
So a short between SW and L2 will close the relay and start the pump.

What is the actual problem you are having ?
If it's still running all the time..... remove either the white or red wire and see if it stops.
If it does..... you have an issue at or with the pressure switch.

 
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Old 10-30-20, 01:08 PM
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I've got 120v going into L2. I only have 48v at SW.

The actual problem is, the Pressure Switch will not cut off when I reach 60+ lbs. It won't cut out at all.

It was doing this with the previous Pressure Switch so a bought a brand new one. That did not not help.

I will go out and try removing the red wire and see what happens. I will hook it back up and remove the white wire and see what happens.

I just don't get why I have 48v at the SW red wire.

Thanks.
 
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Old 10-30-20, 01:36 PM
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Hi, remove the yellow coil wire from that contactor and see if the motor stops, with the power off remove the cover from that contactor and see if the contacts are welded together.
Geo🇺🇸
 
  #12  
Old 10-30-20, 01:50 PM
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Show a picture of your pressure switch.
Does it have a small tub connecting it to the tank? It could be corroded closed and the switch is not seeing any pressure to cut off.
If you remove the pressure switch does water come out of the connection point? It should if there is any pressure. If not it is clogged.
 
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Old 10-30-20, 01:56 PM
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I've got 120v going into L2. I only have 48v at SW.
You are describing an "open" pressure switch condition.
If the pressure switch is closed.... L2 = SW because they are shorted together.

I agree it could be a clogged water supply line to the pressure switch....
BUT it doesn't look like that based on your measurements.
 
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Old 10-30-20, 03:09 PM
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Okay, I've been out there trying to trace everything and I think I figured it out. I tried disconnecting each pressure switch wire, one at a time, both at the pressure switch and then again up in the control box. No joy, the pump did not stop.

When I saw the BX cable was broke, I ran a wire from the control box ground directly to the pressure switch ground and got the white wire back up to 120v from 48v. However, the red wire was still 48v. I figured it must be missing a ground somewhere too (don't forget, I'm a dummy when it comes to electricity). I started following the red wire, switching to white, back up into the Line Contactor Coil. When I had continuity between all the connections in the Line Contactor Coil I thought something was wrong. I was looking for a connection from one of the hots going in to that little white wire on the right side and could not find it. So I took and old control panel out and started taking it apart to figure out how it worked. I found it had two spring-loaded deals inside the go in and out.

I took the cover off the Line Contactor Coil that's on my service and found those little *******s stuck in the "in" position. When I got them to pop out, my well cut off. I then drew some water down and the pressure switched kicked my pump on at 40 lbs. I waited and it would never fill up my pressure tank to see if the pump would kick off at 60 lbs. So, I drained it down, opened my cycle stop valve up, ran the hose at 2 1/2 GPM and set the cycle stop valve at 57.

Everything worked. On at 40, off at 62 or 63. YEA!

My only question is, what happens if those stupid little contact bars get stuck in again? I'd have to go out there all the time to make sure they aren't stuck on. So, is there a lubricant or something I could put on them to stop them from sticking in?

I want to thank you all for holding my hand on this.
 
  #15  
Old 10-30-20, 04:06 PM
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Hi, replace the contactor, should be standard issue, while you are at it install the proper connectors on those cables .
Geo🇺🇸
 
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Old 10-30-20, 04:14 PM
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You'll probably need to be replacing the contactor soon.
305226902 is the Franklin part number but is way too expensive.
You need a two pole 20-30A contactor with 240v coil.
I can help you source one if needed.
 
  #17  
Old 11-02-20, 09:53 AM
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Good Morning:

You were correct, I need to replace the contactor. When the pressure went up I knew the well had not cut out. I went out there and yes, the contactor was stuck again.

I thought it would be a simple matter to replace it (I'm not worried about the money), but the part I have is no longer being produced and, because I'm not an electrician, it is hard for me to tell which of the many contactors out there will serve as an adequate replacement. So, I'm attaching a photo of the one I have and asking if you all might recommend something new that will work without harming my system. Thank you for any guidance you might provide.
 
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Old 11-02-20, 10:08 AM
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There are many choices. I don't know where you want to get it from so I left you one from amazon.
Just make sure it has a 240v coil.

Original part # 155325102 - still available but expensive.
Square D 8910DP32V09
Eaton C25BNB230B
Sq D contactor
 
  #19  
Old 11-02-20, 10:14 AM
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I thank you, and my wife thanks you!
 
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