limit switch manufacturer?
#1
limit switch manufacturer?
This is the best photo I can get of this limit switch, I don't have the switch so cannot attempt to take a closer-up photo for perhaps more clarity. Hoping somebody might recognize the brand/manufacturer and also especially as well be able to read or have a clue what it says in that line of information as can almost be made out just below the lighter colored bar toward the upper section.
#3
The apparent CCA would actually be COM, for "common", I do know that. The NO would be right, as that means "normally open." I'm betting against COP but maybe that's at least close if not it. What also might be helpful to me is some definite deciphering of what that apparent manufacturer/brand that symbol-like designation at the top middle might be.
Also, curious how you do a "search the web for image" as you mentioned.
Thanks
Also, curious how you do a "search the web for image" as you mentioned.
Thanks
#5
Member
Looks to me like a Double-pole/Double-throw switch. I suspect Top Left is Common for the top 2 terminals on the right and Bottom Left is Common for the bottom 2 terminals on the right.
#7
Looks to me like a Double-pole/Double-throw switch. I suspect Top Left is Common for the top 2 terminals on the right and Bottom Left is Common for the bottom 2 terminals on the right.
#8
Try web for CHERRY 0E1900H0 MICRO SWITCH, HINGE LEVER, DPDT 15A 250V
#9
Extremely doubtful you'll find a switch with the activation arm bent like that.
That switch was probably custom made for an OEM company on special order.
That switch was probably custom made for an OEM company on special order.
sgull
voted this post useful.
#10
Extremely doubtful you'll find a switch with the activation arm bent like that.
That switch was probably custom made for an OEM company on special order.
That switch was probably custom made for an OEM company on special order.
#11
Member
What is the problem with the switch you have? Perhaps it can be cleaned (with some contact cleaner) or repaired. Can you use the existing arm on a new switch? (I did not look at the Cherry switches suggested.)
#12
What is the problem with the switch you have? Perhaps it can be cleaned (with some contact cleaner) or repaired. Can you use the existing arm on a new switch?
#13
Forum Topic Moderator
If anyone out there has one, DigiKey probably does.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...t-switches/198
There are about 1,300 lever actuated switches, I honestly didn't drill down much further, but you might be able to find something that will work.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...t-switches/198
There are about 1,300 lever actuated switches, I honestly didn't drill down much further, but you might be able to find something that will work.
#14
If anyone out there has one, DigiKey probably does.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...t-switches/198
There are about 1,300 lever actuated switches, I honestly didn't drill down much further, but you might be able to find something that will work.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...t-switches/198
There are about 1,300 lever actuated switches, I honestly didn't drill down much further, but you might be able to find something that will work.
Good luck...
#15
#16
Thanks Pete for those possibilities. The activating arm(s) on those various ones still looks not quite the match, and I don't know yet whether it's possible/feasible to try to use the existing arm on a new switch as has been suggested to try.
Will post back with any updates to report any luck/progress.
Will post back with any updates to report any luck/progress.
#17
Member
between COM and either of the NC terminals with the switch engaged
sgull
voted this post useful.
#18
You should check all the contacts in "normal" (not engaged) and engaged positions. Usually NC (Normally Closed) will show continuity with the switch in the NON-active position (i.e. not engaged), NO (Normally Open) will not. With the switch engaged NO would show continuity and NC would not.
#19
Member
Microswitches are generic and widely available in many common physical sizes.
Here is one source: https://www.alliedelec.com/switches/...tion-switches/
Picture is of 2 pole switch. Does sgull need 2 poles? if not other unused pole can be used. Single pole is easier to find.
If only one set/pole of sgull contacts is bad, other good contacts could be used to activate a DPDT relay as temporary fix: https://www.alliedelec.com/product/o...ac24/70178789/
Here is one source: https://www.alliedelec.com/switches/...tion-switches/
Picture is of 2 pole switch. Does sgull need 2 poles? if not other unused pole can be used. Single pole is easier to find.
If only one set/pole of sgull contacts is bad, other good contacts could be used to activate a DPDT relay as temporary fix: https://www.alliedelec.com/product/o...ac24/70178789/
Last edited by doughess; 12-03-20 at 01:22 PM.
#20
Microswitches are generic and widely available in many common physical sizes.
#22
It would be possible to print a 3 D arm to match the old one that could slip over a new switch with just a straight arm coming off it. I don't believe that arm has any stress put upon it.
#23
It's something I could do for you or even somebody artistic enough with sheet metal. You would get a switch with this type of arm on it. I in turn would fabricate a 3D printed (ABS plastic) piece to be slip on or glue over it in the shape you need. The problem with this approach is it's always a trial and error processes. Most likely several prints before you get it right.
Now if you use a piece of sheet metal bent to the right shape with side clips to be bent over the replacement switch that might work.
Problem again is it worth the time and effort. The $50 some odd bucks on a new one is the way to go and you know it's correct and it will work.
Now if you use a piece of sheet metal bent to the right shape with side clips to be bent over the replacement switch that might work.
Problem again is it worth the time and effort. The $50 some odd bucks on a new one is the way to go and you know it's correct and it will work.
sgull
voted this post useful.
#24
I linked you to switches similar to what I use. They have long levers.
Bend them the same way as your old one.
Get a couple in case you break one
(I use a similar switch in elevator control. A little better grade but comes with the long arm and I bend them. The metal is a type of spring steel and won't break easily but will bend and hold a shape.)
Bend them the same way as your old one.
Get a couple in case you break one
(I use a similar switch in elevator control. A little better grade but comes with the long arm and I bend them. The metal is a type of spring steel and won't break easily but will bend and hold a shape.)
sgull
voted this post useful.
#26
Sometimes you can modify arms or switch them from old to new one.
#27
That is very close to an Allister door opener double pole limit switch,but the arm is bent slightly different. Check with a door company that does commercial installs and repairs, they should have them in stock