[color=#383a3b]Greetings,[/color] [color=#383a3b]My girlfriend runs an in-home childcare operation. She has a large detached garage that I am converting into a space for her to continue doing so. The garage is 20'x30' and has a large attic space we may eventually use as well. No rush on that possibility in any way. I am fairly new to all things electrical, but have been doing my homework and feel confident I can tackle such a simple job. I am concerned with being NEC compliant and and probably will have some basic questions as this discussion unfolds. Thank you SO much for any help you provide. I am on a timeline to get her operational again, and I am at a stopping point with construction until I knock out electrical.[/color] [color=#383a3b]Here's some initial questions:[/color] [color=#383a3b]1) According to ye ole google:[/color] [color=#383a3b]"A significant change to the 2017 NEC that will affect new garage wiring is NEC 210.11(C)(4), this section requires the receptacles in a garage to be supplied by a 20 amp branch circuit by themselves, no other outlets. This change will require, at minimum, a multi- wire branch circuit to a new detached garage."[/color] [i]What I'm hearing here is that a detached garage needs a dedicated 20 amp branch circuit for the outlets alone. But does this apply now that I'm converting it into a heated space for childcare?[/i][color=#383a3b] If not... great. If so, it seems that I should run three (3) separate circuits from the house underground to the space:[/color] [color=#383a3b]-a 20amp one for all outlets[/color] [color=#383a3b]-a 20amp one for all lights[/color] [color=#383a3b]-and a 20amp one for potential use eventually in the attic for lights and outlets.[/color] [color=#383a3b]Is this correct? HOWEVER... if we ever did finish the attic, perhaps this means I should simply send a wire up there that's connected to the main floor outlets and thus will comply with the code I mentioned needing all outlets in a detached garage to be on one dedicated 20 amp circuit. Perhaps I shouldn't do this... in case too much power is used at once (this is doubtful as her power needs will be minimal regardless if there was an upstairs and a downstairs room). If I did this would this mean I should then just connect the lighting circuit from downstairs to the upstairs as well? If I did so I would then basically only have two separate circuits:[/color] [color=#383a3b]-a 20amp one for ALL (upstairs and downstairs) outlets.[/color] [color=#383a3b]-and a 20 amp one for ALL (upstairs and downstairs) lights.[/color] [color=#383a3b]2) Regardless if I use 2 or 3 different branch circuits from the house, [/color][i]can all circuits simply meet in a junction box and then divide up, or am I required by NEC code to have some other sort of "box" for them to meet at?[/i] [color=#383a3b]3) All wires will leave the house and enter into conduit and go down 2' into the ground, run across the yard, and then back up conduit into the garage. [/color][i]Is there a particular type of conduit that is required by NEC code? I heard something about "80" conduit, which I think refers to 80mm. Also, is it unwise to use underground rated wires and simply run them 2' under ground after coming in and out of the conduit at both ends? Is it required by code that I use conduit the entire way under ground?[/i] [color=#383a3b]4) I think I've figured out how to wire the lights using 3-way wire (12-3) so that I can operate any and all of the light switches from two different locations. I am interested in using dimmer switches and also in in installing one or two fans with a couple of the lights. [/color][i]Will I need to run addition wire or some other sort of wire to do so or will my plans to run everything with 12-2 wire (except for the additional 2 lengths of 12-3 wire running both ways from the switches) be enough to accommodate dimmer switches and fans as well?[/i] [color=#383a3b]5) Some pretty basic question on all things outlet and switch boxes. [/color][i]Does it matter what size or type box I use really? Are they not all simply boxes where wires run into them and outlets or switches can be attached and the most important thing is if you need a larger size to accommodate more switches, dimmer switches, etc?[/i][color=#383a3b] At the hardware store there are SO many different sizes and some are plastic, some are metal. Does any of this matter?[/color] [color=#383a3b]6) [/color][i]What's the deal with needing receptacles to be AFCI receptacles as well as TR (tamper resistant)? Since this is in the code are all designed that way and there is no worry of buying the wrong ones? I see also that circuit breakers need to be AFCI breakers as well. Are they all simply made this way now?[/i] [color=#383a3b]7) I REALLY want to make sure I am NEC compliant. The only considerations I have found so far that could make me fail an inspection is:[/color] [color=#383a3b]-Making sure I use 20amp circuits and thus 12 gauge wire.[/color] [color=#383a3b]-Have outlets no more than 12ft apart at any point all the way around the walls.[/color] [color=#383a3b]-Making sure all walls over 2ft in width have an outlet.[/color] [color=#383a3b]-This whole thing on receptacles being AFCI and TR (tamper resistant)[/color] [color=#383a3b]-Breakers needing to AFCI[/color] [i]What am I missing here that I haven't considered?[/i] [color=#383a3b]Sincerely... [/color][b]THANKS[/b][color=#383a3b] for any and all help. I want to get this right and to get moving again. Most open to anyone's private help over email as well with all this. I don't know if that's allowed, but if so, I'm down. Gotta keep this project moving![/color] [color=#383a3b]-Jacob[/color]

We own a house that used to be set up as a two family. We have gas/electric meters that are separate for each floor (first floor, second floor and basement). The energy company says we could reduce these down from five meters to just two, to help save almost $150 in delivery/rider chargers on our bill each month. But we'd have to have all the contracting work down to redo the pipe/wiring work first. And we'd be responsible for all that cost. Can anyone ball park what something like this might cost, just so I can get an idea if it's worth it in the long run? If it's a semi-easy thing, it might be worth the upfront contractor fees. But if it's a huge pain, not sure I'd wanna go through with it.