I build small custom amplifiers and one of the parts I use is an IEC AC receptacle. The rating for the receptacle is 10A @ 250VAC. However, all of my amps are used exclusively in the US, so voltage is 125VAC max.
If an IEC receptacle is rated for 10A @ 250VAC, does this mean it is also only safe for 10A @ 125VAC? Or does the max amperage it can handle increase as voltage decreases?
I ask because I assume the product rating is based on temperature, so at 10A/250VAC wattage would be ~2500w whereas the same wattage at 125VAC would draw 20amps....and wattage is what plays the main role in temperature?
If a receptacle is rated at 10 amps 250 volts it is good fro 10 at 125 volts.
However by code you cannot use a 250 volt receptacle for 125 volts. You must change it a 125 volt rated receptacle. The pin configurations are different so that you cannot plug a 125 volt rated device into a 250 volt receptacle.
Also if you half the voltage the amp will double with the same load. So a device rated 10 amps at 250 volts would need 20 amps at 125 volts.
f an IEC receptacle is rated for 10A @ 250VAC, does this mean it is also only safe for 10A @ 125VAC? Or does the max amperage it can handle increase as voltage decreases?
Oversimplifying, US current uses four wires, #1 is +120v #2 is -120v, #3 is the neutral that is meant to return current, and #4 is ground/earth which is a safety valve.
You can visualize this as a high school bathroom, you have a sink with hot water, cold water, and a drain, but there is ALSO a floor drain for emergencies if the sink drain doesn't work.
Generally, the IEC standards set maximums, and the cords that go into those receptacles are rated to 240V @ 10A, the rating at lower voltage depends on the gauge of the wires used.
Generally, they're interchangeable, as you'll see that older computer power supplies have a 120v / 240v slide switch, OR are listed as AUTOMATIC because they sense the chagne.
The IEC equipment connector was designed as a universal connection for electrical/electronic equipment under 250v. There is no 120v or 250v device. The device is 250v maximum.
Yes. An equipment receptacle, plays by different rules than a premise receptacle, as far as voltage rating. I’m not even sure if the machine male connector is even called a receptacle.
The IEC equipment connector was designed as a universal connection for electrical/electronic equipment under 250v. There is no 120v or 250v device. The device is 250v maximum.
Agreed. But the cheap knockoff cords are so thin that I wouldn't trust them with a sustained 20 amp / 125v load.
Generally, the IEC standards set maximums, and the cords that go into those receptacles are rated to 240V @ 10A, the rating at lower voltage depends on the gauge of the wires used.
Generally, they're interchangeable, as you'll see that older computer power supplies have a 120v / 240v slide switch, OR are listed as AUTOMATIC because they sense the chagne.
All modern power supplies now have power factor correction (PFC) so that red switch is a item of the past
Agreed. But the cheap knockoff cords are so thin that I wouldn't trust them with a sustained 20 amp / 125v load
I bought quite a few cords from dubious places I had one almost catch fire with a 6A load (intermittent load from a laser printer) I cut it open and it was mostly plastic coating the inner wires were only 22 AWG (if that!).
I also had one with no ground wire it had the "standard" PC style D-shaped IEC but only a NEMA 1-15P and no it was not the 2 wire version with the ground blocked off.
To cut thru all the noise and answer your question..........
If an IEC receptacle is rated for 10A @ 250VAC, does this mean it is also only safe for 10A @ 125VAC? Or does the max amperage it can handle increase as voltage decreases?
That jack is rated for a maximum pole to pole voltage of 250v.
The contacts are rated to 10A.
The amp rating is to limit the risk of thing beeing to hot, so in this case do not load more than 10 Amp, usually witin a time limit of number of hours of continus max load.
Thanks for all the responses.
A little more digging and the actual rating of the receptacle is listed as: 15A @ 250VAC (IEC-UL/CSA); 10A @ 250VAC (VDE)
The company selling it advertised it as only being 10A but as you can see it has two different ratings based on two different standards. Can I go by the IEC-UL/CSA rating of 15A @ 250VAC?
Also, regarding load time: being an audio amplifier if the load ever even approached 15A total (which is highly unlikely but I'm just going by theoretical max possible) it would only be for short periods of time, like 1-2 seconds.
Thanks for all the responses.
A little more digging and the actual rating of the receptacle is listed as: 15A @ 250VAC (IEC-UL/CSA); 10A @ 250VAC (VDE)
The company selling it advertised it as only being 10A but as you can see it has two different ratings based on two different standards. Can I go by the IEC-UL/CSA rating of 15A @ 250VAC?
Also, regarding load time: being an audio amplifier if the load ever even approached 15A total (which is highly unlikely but I'm just going by theoretical max possible) it would only be for short periods of time, like 1-2 seconds.
I found the page for the IEC 60320 specifications on Wikipedia
The C13 is the standard for PC's and the like.
It looks like my "bootleg" cord with only 2 wires should have used the C17 end and not the C13 one like that was used I destroyed that cord inside was only 22 AWG wires.
Anyway good luck with your amplifier creation ventures.
VDE tends to be more conservative in their ratings
Yes 10A is more realistic for these connectors however 14AWG/3C cables with the C13 do exist.
The early Apple Powermac G5 computers used the C19 style connectors because they used about 12A @ 120VAC so the VDE ratings are more appropriate for the size of the pins.
Wasn't sure if this should go in the Automotive Repair forums - but I wonder if it's common for modern battery chargers with more sophisticated electronics [i]not[/i] to charge dead or very low 12v batteries. I encountered this last fall while attempting to charge a battery in a lawn tractor I lent to my son. My new (discount national parts store) charger would just go dead when attaching the leads, no LED, no indication on the meter. Thankfully I hang onto things - brought out my Craftsman 2/6 amp charger which may be 20 years old and was able to charge the battery. I can get the battery to a certain level and have the new charger take over.
On several occasions my neighbor had to borrow my old charger when the battery in his spare car was deeply discharged. He just got a new charger from the same store as my new one (but with an LCD screen) and it was useless, just kept flashing red. Borrowed my Craftsman, charged the battery for a few hours - then his new one was able to take over. My old charger is very basic, a switch for 6 & 12 volts, 2 & 6 amps and a meter.
I wonder are these basic units not made any more? My neighbor brought his charger back for a refund. A different neighbor gave me a spare battery he had for my truck. That was around 9.6 volts so I was able to charge it with my new charger. The truck has been starting since Saturday - so it seems some new chargers just won't charge below a certain voltage.
I am having a gas fireplace insert installed. The installer wants $600 for the electrical work that consists of running power to the firebox, making the connection to the insert and bonding the gas line. I'm trying to decide if I want to hire an electrician or do the work myself. I certainly don't want to pay the contractor installing the insert $600 for what looks like a couple of hours work.
I have suitable power available in a junction box less than 10" away from the fireplace which has a clean out wwhere I can route the power. My question is about bonding the gas line. The SEP is on the other side of the house and I want to know if I can bond the gas line by connecting the bonding cable to a nearby ground rod?
12-30-20, 09:40 AM
