I hope this is the right section for this. I recently installed porcelain tile over my levelled, basement slab with a Ditra Heat system. The mat and cable installation went smoothly and it's time to wire it up.
I'm pretty comfortable working with electrical in general but I've never wired up a floor warming system so thought it might be a good idea to come by here and see if anyone notices any holes in the plan, or if there are any possible pitfalls I should be aware of.
Wiring the sensor and heating cables to the thermostat is a no-brainer.
It's a 220v system. The specs on the heating cable are:
Cables were tested before, during and after installation with less than a 2% variance in ohm readings.
Now to the the breaker panel.....
Despite being a 220v system it's 15 amp, two pole (which is a bit new to me) but those are the specs. The plan is to run 14-2 BX to the panel and wire it into a Siemens 15A 2-Pole 120/240V Type Q Breaker Model # Q215. Common ground at the panel and both wires as hot for 220/240V
Does that all sound about right?
One other question.... I have a bunch of 12-2 BX left over. I assume it won't be a problem to use it instead of buying more 14-2... But is anyone aware of any code where it's prohibited to use over-sized wire? I can't imagine why but I can't find anything in our Ontario electrical code that refers to this.
Generic BX would not be appropriate but there are many variations.
Originally BX was steel with two copper wires and no ground.
Then a metal band was added for ground.
Then aluminum type cable called MC (metal clad) was introduced. It has a white, black and green copper wires in it. MC cable would be a correct choice.
Our current code requires that heating cable to be on a GFI circuit.
That means most likely you'll need a 2P15A GFI breaker in Canada.
Thanks. The BX I have available to me here is two (or three) copper shielded wire plus one unshielded ground wire. This is wrapped in a bare interlocked aluminum armour. I didn't even realize it is available without the copper ground wire.
The model of the two pole breaker I indicated is this one
Do you think there's any point to using one anyways? Would it provide an extra layer of protection or is it totally redundant?
I know.... Just that I'm the sort of person who has two smoke detectors in every required position instead of just the one.... For me, safety is worth a few extra bucks.
I've never had flooding but my (never used) basement sump pump has a backup pump that's powered by city water pressure should power fail
The wiring to my bathroom is on a 20amp breaker, with a 12g wiring running into the bathroom from the breaker. The 12g wire from the breaker terminates in a 3 gang box that contains 3 switches. From there it pigtails to a mix of 14g and 12g wiring. The one 12g wire runs to a single gang receptacle box a few inches away. The rest are 14g gauge wires running to the 3 switches in the box which control the shower fan+light, a night light in the shower fan, and the vanity lighting above the sink. Is this to code?
I know it's very bad to run 14g wiring on a 20amp breaker to a receptacle because someone could plug appliances into both outlets and draw up to 20amps before tripping the breaker, which is unsafe on 14g wiring. However for the light and fan, the loads are fixed and known, and never more than probably 2amps. I guess the risk would be some malfunction in the fan or lighting that somehow caused it to draw between 15 and 20amps. I'm not sure if this is a realistic concern, and I'm not sure if code requires 12g wiring in this application for this reason or some other.
Thanks
I'm thinking about replacing my old meter socket. I was talking to the guy who runs a local electrical supply house about this. And I brought up pulling a permit. The guy was very much against doing that - he said there's no reason to pull a permit since I'm not changing the service, just replacing the meter box and cable, but staying at 100A service.
Sounds dubious to me. I tried calling the AHJ, but no one is answering today, so I thought I'd run it by you guys. I'm guessing in a nanny state like NY, homeowner is supposed to pull a permit in this situation. But if it's not required for a replacement part(s) while staying on same service level (100A), I'd rather not go down that road, and just have an electrician pull the meter, swap out the parts, reinstall the meter and be done.