When asking about the neutral bars being bonded I think of the bonding to ground, not that the two neutral bars are interconnected.
I believe that large white wire is being used to bond the neutral bar to ground. Unless I'm not seeing where that wire goes correctly.
The need of bushing on the pvc fitting is debatable.
That "white" wire connecting to the left hand ground bar is the ground wrap from the 60A 240v circuit in the bottom right. It should have been left bare or taped green.
Yes, that white appears to be the extension of the ground for the 60A circuit. My question is, is this a subpanel since it has a 4 wire feed with the neutral bond being ahead of this panel at a separate disconnect? Otherwise if this panel is the first disconnect I'm not seeing the neutral bond.
The OP needs to clarify the question about the neutral bar bonding. Whether between the two bars or to the panel.
I was wondering if the two bars were bonded because I couldn't see and knew they should be.
But you said this was a subpanel. In a subpanel the neutral bus never gets bonded to the grounded panel box. The neutrals must be completely isolated from ground.
You are misusing the term bonded. In electrical, bonded refers to being connected to ground. As to the two neutral bars, they are interconnected but not bonded to ground.
I have one 20 amp dedicated circuit for my garage for 4 outlets. I want to add another outlet in my garage and put in two LED lights in the garage attic by wiring into an existing 20 AMP circuit that only feeds 3 receptacles in a family room that backs up to the garage. I will be protecting the circuit with a GFCI/AFCI breaker. Does code permit having an outlet in the garage that shares a circuit with the living quarters even though I already met the portion of the code requiring a dedicated circuit for outlets or do all outlets need to be on a separate circuit from the living area?
Folks... I have a photoelectric switch that is wired between an indoor maestro dimmer switch and two outdoor entryway post lamps. The maestro is supposed to control power AND the dimming function... the photoelectric switch turns power on/off for dusk/dawn.
The maestro switch controls the power (on/off) just fine. It also handles the dimming function just fine too.
So what's the problem?
[u][b]Unfortunately, the dimming function seems to interfere with the automatic feature of the photoelectric switch[/b][/u].
When the maestro dimmer switch is turned on to "full" (maxed to full brightness), everything works beautifully. Sun comes up and the lights turn off. Sun goes down, the lights turn on.
The issue? My wife.
She is not happy because "[i]the lights are too bright and I expect to control the brightness with this $35-$40 switch!"[/i]. [b]The real issue is the lights will not turn on when the sun goes down if the maestro dimmer is below the maxed out level! They also will not turn off when the sun comes up if they are manually turned on at night then dimmed.[/b]
Currently, they are being manually turned on at night (in the dimmed position), then manually turned off in the morning. My wife shames me twice a day by reminding me how great that photoelectric sensor doesn't work! She has to manually turn the lights on and off!
I understand LED bulbs can be an issue, so I ensured I had the correct, recommended bulbs for a maestro switch. Unfortunately, even with the "right" LED bulb, the lights will only turn on/off as expected if they are in the maestro's maxed out position.
Has anyone ever experienced this? Does anyone have a suggestion? I've tried a variety of LED bulbs and they all work as expected as long as the maestro is maxed out. [color=#222222]The switch itself is a CQC Brand by Qicheng Electrical Equip Co. Model is LC-105
My only guess is that the photoelectric switch is interfering with the proper functioning of the bulbs. Can the dimming function force the photoelectric switch to not work?[/color]
01-04-21, 05:29 PM
