Re: Getting new electric service panel and it’s distance from gas meter.
Hello All,
I wish to request your expert opinion and comments on this issue since I do not trust the solar companies about this.
I have attached some pictures for your reference.
Our existing electrical service panel in 100A.
We are planning to get a 7.2KW solar system and will be buying an electric car this month.
A few solar companies are saying we need a new 20A service panel because the current panel will not be sufficient for solar and electric car. And few others say, we can make it work.
The upper cabinet houses the service panel and the lower one houses the gas meter.
The solar companies that are against changing the panel say that according to new codes, the eclectic service panel and the gas meter should be at least 36 inches apart. And if I get new serve panel, I will have to either move the service panel or the gas meter to a different location and that will cost a lot of money.
My questions:
1. Do I really need a new 200A panel for my scenario?
2. Is it true that electric service panel and gas meter should be 36 inch apart, even if they are in their own separate housing (see picture)?
3. If they need to be, can’t we move the electric panel towards the top in the same cabinet? Right now they are about 30 inch apart and if service panel is moved up; the upper edge of gas meter will be more than 40 inches away from lower edge of service panel.
Could anyone please help me out and also suggest the best way forward in the long run.
Hi, I would say the location is the least of your worries, first off, that’s an FPE panel, I doubt you will find new breakers, and if you do there is no space for additional breakers ,it sure appears that a new service is the first place to start.
Geo🇺🇸
Agreed with Geo. That looks like a Stab-Loc panel, which is a well-known fire hazard.
If it were my house, with the solar investment, I'd also update/upgrade the service and panel. As long as you're updating, might as well go to 200A as 100A vs 200A is a minimal cost increase.
But to know if a 100A service could handle your loads, you'd need to do a demand load calculation. Easiest way is to Google 'demand load calculator', there are a bunch of online calculators out there.
The solar companies that are against changing the panel say that according to new codes, the eclectic service panel and the gas meter should be at least 36 inches apart. And if I get new serve panel, I will have to either move the service panel or the gas meter to a different location and that will cost a lot of money.
I'd ask for a code reference on that. I am wondering if you are dealing with a true professional or a salesman.
They are likely confusing the dedicated space for indoor requirements where nothing foreign can be below. There might be local requirements, though. The working space requirements might be a bit sketchy as the panel is recessed with a door. 3' might be if they consider the electrical panel a source of ignition.
Gas meter clearance to sources of ignition (from Inspectapedia)
Electrical equipment that can serve as a source of ignition is defined as an ignition source if it creates an arc or spark during operation. Normal building electrical wiring and junction boxes are not sources of ignition. Electrical panels, most electrical switches, relays, and similar controls that can create a spark when operated are considered a "source of ignition". Electric meters on buildings are not considered a source of ignition.
These regulations require a three-foot clearance from indoor meters to sources of ignition, but have no comparable requirement when the meter is located outdoors. At least 3 feet, per NEC 110-26 & NFPA 54-National Fuel Gas Code for premises-owned gas meters.
Technically the solar guys are correct.
It's not that the meters are too close..... it's the panel attached to your electric meter is a source of ignition.
Four things Eww solar second Eww FPE and third I had a solar company call me and said I was eligible for free solar panels and related equipment I said cool I like free stuff send me the equipment as I rent! Three seconds later the line went dead with the click.. # four eww solar!
As part of my quarantine project ([url=https://www.doityourself.com/forum/quarantine-projects/624638-quarantine-projects-skid-loader-repower.html]skidloader repower[/url]) I will likely be rewiring my skidloader. Right now everything works but it is kind of a mess, but I would like to clean it up, replace the wiring harness, add a few new gauges and wire in a few accessories that have either been cobbled on in the past or added as part of the current project.
My main question is regarding whether it matters what gauge wire I use? My thinking was that maybe I should use 12 gauge wire from the battery to the ignition switch which would be protected by a 20 amp fuse that is in the dash. But then everything else from that point could be run in 14 or 16 gauge wire.
Ammeter gauge, hour gauge, oil light, small electric fuel pump, auxiliary fan, and led headlamps.
My thought was to mount a 8 circuit terminal block inside the dash, power it through the ignition switch and through a 20 amp fuse with 12 gauge wire off directly off the battery, then run the 16 gauge circuits to the accessories off the other side of the terminal block. The fan is the biggest accessory and I believe it is 90 watts. Nothing would have more than about 7 feet of wire, except for maybe the ignition start wire which has to go all the way to the starter solenoid. And I don't know if it should be 12 ga also or not.
Do you think anything else needs a fusible link?
I haven't done much electrical wiring before so I don't know I'm going about this wrong or making it harder than it has to be?
My recently remodeled. The contractor did a full rewire, upgraded the main panel and installed a sub panel. Now the whole house light will flick when a big appliance turns on like refrigerator or washer machine. some time stable and sometime not. Some breakers jump randomly when I use use this or that outlet for vacuums or high pressure water gun. The contractor could not find the reason. they said maybe the PG&E( city electric supplier) line to my home may have issue? I found another electrician come to check. This electrician said the sub panel grounding is not appropriate. It should not have a 2nd ground line links to the water pipe. But the first contractor said it is correct and refuse to change. Now I need other opinion.
This is the current diagram. the main panel grounding line connects to a ground rod. but there is not a grounding light connect to sub panel. subpanel itself has a ground line connect to a water pipe. Is this a correct way? it it is not, how to fix ? ( sub panel and main panel are in the same house. no far apart).
I am in California SF area.
Thanks
[img]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_6612_0b400c2c40888311e518b345f39cab5dc9f1c56b.jpg[/img]
[i]current grounding diagram[/i]
[img]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_6606_4d3ceb4f537a5373e2e046753b0b362facc04850.jpg[/img]
[i]how the subpanel connect to the water pipe[/i]
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[i]how the sub panel ground line connect to the case( the top entrance pipe metal) and how to connect to the grounding bar/bus. the thick copper ground wire goes to the water pipe outside the panel. [/i]
[img]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/img_6607_9a175d05dd43c81fd99a939605d7b1c679d4efc9.jpg[/img]
[i]The main panel ground line connect with the neutral wire , case, and the grounding rod outside. [/i]