Does my microwave REALLY need to be on its own circuit?
#1
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Does my microwave REALLY need to be on its own circuit?
I live in a house built in the 1980s. I never noticed until recently but when I run the microwave, the lights in the laundry & bathroom flicker.
My boyfriend has explained to me that it should be on its own circuit and the house wasn’t designed for such a big microwave in the 80s.
He has no intention of doing this so my question is, is this a fire hazard or do we just risk tripping the breaker?
My boyfriend has explained to me that it should be on its own circuit and the house wasn’t designed for such a big microwave in the 80s.
He has no intention of doing this so my question is, is this a fire hazard or do we just risk tripping the breaker?
#2
Member
Do the lights flicker continuously while the MW is operating? Or just when it starts up and then again when the klystron tube (the thing that makes the microwaves) cycles on and off while cooking (you can hear the sound of the MW change)?
If the former then you may have a loose or backstab connection somewhere in the circuit and it should be investigated.
If the latter (especially if the lights are LED) then no problem and you can rely on the circuit breaker to prevent a problem if the circuit becomes overloaded.
If possible a separate circuit is desirable but not necessary.
If the former then you may have a loose or backstab connection somewhere in the circuit and it should be investigated.
If the latter (especially if the lights are LED) then no problem and you can rely on the circuit breaker to prevent a problem if the circuit becomes overloaded.
If possible a separate circuit is desirable but not necessary.
bulova
voted this post useful.
#3
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If you run a hair dryer or iron in the laundry room while the Micro is running and the breaker holds for more than 3 minutes or so, convenience wise and safety wise you likely are good to go.
#4
Member
I'm not an electrician but depending on the size (watts) of your microwave and whatever else is sharing the circuit, the circuit might be overloaded. If you have a large microwave oven, fixed in place (i.e. over the range) it should be on a dedicated circuit. I think that is an NEC requirement for an attached appliance. However, the install instructions for my over the range simply "recommends" a dedicated circuit.
There is a lot of internet confusion regarding microwave wattage as it relates to current load. Most people seem to think that the wattage rating is directly based on load (P=IE). I'm not sure that this is the case. I always thought that the wattage rating of a microwave was related to cooking power not current draw.
I'm sure one of the electricians here will have the correct answer.
There is a lot of internet confusion regarding microwave wattage as it relates to current load. Most people seem to think that the wattage rating is directly based on load (P=IE). I'm not sure that this is the case. I always thought that the wattage rating of a microwave was related to cooking power not current draw.
I'm sure one of the electricians here will have the correct answer.
#5
However, the install instructions for my over the range simply "recommends" a dedicated circuit.
"Observe all governing codes and ordinances. A 120-Volt, 60-Hz, AC-only, 15 or 20-amp fused electrical supply is required. A time delay fuse is recommended. It is recommended that a separate circuit, serving only this appliance, is provided."
#8
The light flickers continuously
2john02458
voted this post useful.
#9
How old is the Microwave what is the make/model?
As a test get a long 12/3 AWG/3C conductor extension cord.
Before buying or making a cord though you can put some water in the microwave (never run any microwave oven empty it will damage it) put it on a cook cycle but don't do full power (Power level 100 %) do like 80 or 90% (again make/model will help or read the book) you can then hear the magnetron (microwave generator) this is noticeable when running as the microwave makes a loud buzzing noise from this part.
Ask your friend if the lights only flicker when the magnetron is on or all of the time.
Anyway also check the receptacles for back-stabs move to the screws or better yet get new (hopefully non "Tamper Resistant" I hate those damn stupid junk things) back wired receptacles (not back stabbed the back wire ones use pressure plates that are tightened by the side screws)
As a test get a long 12/3 AWG/3C conductor extension cord.
Before buying or making a cord though you can put some water in the microwave (never run any microwave oven empty it will damage it) put it on a cook cycle but don't do full power (Power level 100 %) do like 80 or 90% (again make/model will help or read the book) you can then hear the magnetron (microwave generator) this is noticeable when running as the microwave makes a loud buzzing noise from this part.
Ask your friend if the lights only flicker when the magnetron is on or all of the time.
Anyway also check the receptacles for back-stabs move to the screws or better yet get new (hopefully non "Tamper Resistant" I hate those damn stupid junk things) back wired receptacles (not back stabbed the back wire ones use pressure plates that are tightened by the side screws)
#10
Do a test..... plug a blow dryer in the receptacle where the microwave is normally plugged in.
Does the same flickering problem occur when you turn the dryer on ?
It would be pretty rare for a microwave to cause the lights to flicker continuously.
Does the same flickering problem occur when you turn the dryer on ?
It would be pretty rare for a microwave to cause the lights to flicker continuously.
#11
Member
A properly working 1 kw microwave should heat one pint of tap water to boiling in 170 seconds but the tests online may call for a 1 qt. test.
I've never done this test on ours (let sleeping dogs lie).
I've never done this test on ours (let sleeping dogs lie).
#14
If it flickers only when the magnetron engages then you're most likely OK.
CasualJoe
voted this post useful.
#15
Member
Just an observation here: I have a large microwave on the same circuit as other kitchen appliances. No lights flicker when it cycles on/off. I would suspect poor/oxidized contacts somewhere along the line. If the lights are on a separate circuit breaker from the kitchen outlet, then the problem may be in the breaker box. TIme for an electrician, if that's the case.
#16
Member
My microwave was tripping its circuit here and there. Inconvenient, had to go down into dark basement to reset. Both were on the same circuit.
Put the microwave and basement lights on a different same rated circuit. still tripped the breaker here and there. Installed dedicated 20 amp circuit for the microwave, still tripped here and there.
Bought a new microwave - has not tripped for 10 months since I bought it.
Put the microwave and basement lights on a different same rated circuit. still tripped the breaker here and there. Installed dedicated 20 amp circuit for the microwave, still tripped here and there.
Bought a new microwave - has not tripped for 10 months since I bought it.