Electrical for Radon Fan
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Electrical for Radon Fan
Im installing a Radon Fan (Fantech RN2) which does not come with a wire or a diagram of how to hook it up. I'm also not familiar with nor can I find any code for connecting this to the electrical system. I had originally decided to run a cable from the Fan directly into the basement and, using an 18 ga. wire with premade plug, attach it to the same outlet as the sump pump (the fan would be almost directly above the Sump) the wire turned out to not be the kind I wanted for the job, and I'm now rethinking the whole electrical part. So, questions.
1) Does it REQUIRE an outdoor switch? yes, an outdoor switch is a good idea for maintenance, but is it required? I'm thinking of just wiring it direct into the Breaker box on top of the Sump breaker, thus for maintenance, I could just use the breaker, but want to make sure I'm up to code - if any.
2) Would a dedicated circuit be better? One person told me tying into the sump is ok, but someone else said no. Which would be right?
3) I cannot find any definitive description of what wire would be best. 3 wire, obviously, but what gauge and whether or not a conduit is needed are big questions.
Well, that's about it for now....I expect any answers will come up with more questions, but I thank you all!
1) Does it REQUIRE an outdoor switch? yes, an outdoor switch is a good idea for maintenance, but is it required? I'm thinking of just wiring it direct into the Breaker box on top of the Sump breaker, thus for maintenance, I could just use the breaker, but want to make sure I'm up to code - if any.
2) Would a dedicated circuit be better? One person told me tying into the sump is ok, but someone else said no. Which would be right?
3) I cannot find any definitive description of what wire would be best. 3 wire, obviously, but what gauge and whether or not a conduit is needed are big questions.
Well, that's about it for now....I expect any answers will come up with more questions, but I thank you all!
#2
You can wire it with a grounded power cord and then install a receptacle for it.
If it's hard wired it is required to have a disconnect switch for servicing and must be wired in appropriate wiring. If it's outside you can use 14-2 w/grd UF cable.
If it's hard wired it is required to have a disconnect switch for servicing and must be wired in appropriate wiring. If it's outside you can use 14-2 w/grd UF cable.
#3
Forum Topic Moderator
I think the proper way to wire a radon fan is to use Liquiditight whip and THWN from the fan to an outdoor box. The box would include a switch and outdoor rated switch cover. Then 14/2 NM-B from the back of the box into the house. (basically similar to how an outside AC condenser is wired)
The fan can use another circuit, it's only a few watts.
Around here, it's typical to have the shutoff switch inside. Though it isn't 100% code-compliant, it's pretty typical and accepted where I live.
The fan can use another circuit, it's only a few watts.
Around here, it's typical to have the shutoff switch inside. Though it isn't 100% code-compliant, it's pretty typical and accepted where I live.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Ok, so if I use a 14-2 uf Cable, with a good industrial plug and wire in an outlet inside the house, I'd be good?
#5
Forum Topic Moderator
14-2 uf Cable, with a good industrial plug and wire in an outlet inside the house
Some radon installation codes do require hardwired fans when installed outside. I don't believe there are any national radon system codes, but some states to impose them.
#6
Most of my installs here in NJ use a power cord plugged into a GFI receptacle.
The plugging in takes care of the servicing requirement of the fan.
I install a WP box next to the fan with an "in use" cover.
It would be just as easy to install a switch in that WP box and hard wire the fan.
The plugging in takes care of the servicing requirement of the fan.
I install a WP box next to the fan with an "in use" cover.
It would be just as easy to install a switch in that WP box and hard wire the fan.
Marvinator
voted this post useful.
#7
In my area (MN) Radon fans are wired the same as PJmax's area. With a receptacle and cord and plug.
Marvinator
voted this post useful.
#10
Member
Thread Starter
this is what I'm talking about...too much information and not the right information. LOL I am more confused than ever.
Ok, so if I'm understand this correctly, I need 14-2+Ground wire to go from the breaker box to the outdoor switch box mounted outside, the wire goes in the back. Then I need a "Whip" to go from the box to the fan. So far so good? What gauge is the whip and do I need a particular one for the Fan?
Lastly, dedicated is not necessary, so I can mount it to the Sump Breaker, correct?
Ok, so if I'm understand this correctly, I need 14-2+Ground wire to go from the breaker box to the outdoor switch box mounted outside, the wire goes in the back. Then I need a "Whip" to go from the box to the fan. So far so good? What gauge is the whip and do I need a particular one for the Fan?
Lastly, dedicated is not necessary, so I can mount it to the Sump Breaker, correct?
Last edited by Marvinator; 01-24-21 at 07:49 PM.
#11
Member
Basically you have 2 options. Hard wire or cord and plug.
If you hard wire, you have to have a local disconnect. A simple switch will do. This switch should be covered with weatherproof switch cover or in use cover.
You can use UF cable for hard wiring between the switch and the fan. Or you could use flexible conduit as a whip. Whip looks a bit cleaner, but end result will be the same. Wire size should be 14 AWG all the way if connected to 15A circuit. 12AWG if 20A.
If you use cord and plug, you have to install a receptacle (outlet) in in-use cover. Plug acts as local disconnect, so no need for a switch.
If you hard wire, you have to have a local disconnect. A simple switch will do. This switch should be covered with weatherproof switch cover or in use cover.
You can use UF cable for hard wiring between the switch and the fan. Or you could use flexible conduit as a whip. Whip looks a bit cleaner, but end result will be the same. Wire size should be 14 AWG all the way if connected to 15A circuit. 12AWG if 20A.
If you use cord and plug, you have to install a receptacle (outlet) in in-use cover. Plug acts as local disconnect, so no need for a switch.
#12
Member
Thread Starter
Electrical is one of those areas I end up having a lot of questions, just to make sure i'm going about it right.
Question: can I use this wire to run from the outdoor box to the breaker box AND inside the conduit from the outdoor switch box to the Fan? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwir...7426/202210510
Question: can I use this wire to run from the outdoor box to the breaker box AND inside the conduit from the outdoor switch box to the Fan? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwir...7426/202210510
#13
Member
can I use this wire to run from the outdoor box to the breaker box AND inside the conduit from the outdoor switch box to the Fan?
Marvinator
voted this post useful.
#14
Member
Thread Starter
thanks for all the info. One last - probably stupid - question.
once I mount the switch box outside the house, how do I seal the connection behind it. I know the wire will come up out of the house and into the back of the box, but is there some accepted way of sealing it liquid tight other than just caulking it up good?
once I mount the switch box outside the house, how do I seal the connection behind it. I know the wire will come up out of the house and into the back of the box, but is there some accepted way of sealing it liquid tight other than just caulking it up good?
#15
Member
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-...0661/100170032
There is a special connector for connecting UF cable to make it weatherproof.
As for the wire entering from the wall to the box, I just use normal NM romex connector and use duct seal to weatherproof it. I don't know if there is a better way.
There is a special connector for connecting UF cable to make it weatherproof.
As for the wire entering from the wall to the box, I just use normal NM romex connector and use duct seal to weatherproof it. I don't know if there is a better way.
#16
Member
Thread Starter
I'm talking about the hole into the house, the space behind the box and water seeping in there. Just Caulk around the box?
#17
Member
Just Caulk around the box?
You could caulk top and side meeting the wall as well to make it even better. Do not caulk bottom so any water that finds a way can drain out.