Electrical for Radon Fan

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  #1  
Old 01-24-21, 12:41 PM
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Electrical for Radon Fan

Im installing a Radon Fan (Fantech RN2) which does not come with a wire or a diagram of how to hook it up. I'm also not familiar with nor can I find any code for connecting this to the electrical system. I had originally decided to run a cable from the Fan directly into the basement and, using an 18 ga. wire with premade plug, attach it to the same outlet as the sump pump (the fan would be almost directly above the Sump) the wire turned out to not be the kind I wanted for the job, and I'm now rethinking the whole electrical part. So, questions.
1) Does it REQUIRE an outdoor switch? yes, an outdoor switch is a good idea for maintenance, but is it required? I'm thinking of just wiring it direct into the Breaker box on top of the Sump breaker, thus for maintenance, I could just use the breaker, but want to make sure I'm up to code - if any.
2) Would a dedicated circuit be better? One person told me tying into the sump is ok, but someone else said no. Which would be right?
3) I cannot find any definitive description of what wire would be best. 3 wire, obviously, but what gauge and whether or not a conduit is needed are big questions.
Well, that's about it for now....I expect any answers will come up with more questions, but I thank you all!
 
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Old 01-24-21, 01:33 PM
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You can wire it with a grounded power cord and then install a receptacle for it.
If it's hard wired it is required to have a disconnect switch for servicing and must be wired in appropriate wiring. If it's outside you can use 14-2 w/grd UF cable.
 
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Old 01-24-21, 02:18 PM
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I think the proper way to wire a radon fan is to use Liquiditight whip and THWN from the fan to an outdoor box. The box would include a switch and outdoor rated switch cover. Then 14/2 NM-B from the back of the box into the house. (basically similar to how an outside AC condenser is wired)
The fan can use another circuit, it's only a few watts.

Around here, it's typical to have the shutoff switch inside. Though it isn't 100% code-compliant, it's pretty typical and accepted where I live.
 
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Old 01-24-21, 02:21 PM
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Ok, so if I use a 14-2 uf Cable, with a good industrial plug and wire in an outlet inside the house, I'd be good?
 
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Old 01-24-21, 02:29 PM
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14-2 uf Cable, with a good industrial plug and wire in an outlet inside the house
No, cord and plug can't be run through walls, regardless of the wire type. You'd either need to do a cord and plug to an outdoor receptacle with a weatherproof cover (bubble cover), or hard wired.

Some radon installation codes do require hardwired fans when installed outside. I don't believe there are any national radon system codes, but some states to impose them.
 
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Old 01-24-21, 02:35 PM
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Most of my installs here in NJ use a power cord plugged into a GFI receptacle.
The plugging in takes care of the servicing requirement of the fan.

I install a WP box next to the fan with an "in use" cover.
It would be just as easy to install a switch in that WP box and hard wire the fan.
 
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Old 01-24-21, 03:31 PM
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In my area (MN) Radon fans are wired the same as PJmax's area. With a receptacle and cord and plug.
 
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Old 01-24-21, 04:04 PM
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Amazon sells the power cord on the RN2 page.

 
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Old 01-24-21, 05:44 PM
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UF cable is not for use with cord plugs.
 
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Old 01-24-21, 08:12 PM
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this is what I'm talking about...too much information and not the right information. LOL I am more confused than ever.

Ok, so if I'm understand this correctly, I need 14-2+Ground wire to go from the breaker box to the outdoor switch box mounted outside, the wire goes in the back. Then I need a "Whip" to go from the box to the fan. So far so good? What gauge is the whip and do I need a particular one for the Fan?

Lastly, dedicated is not necessary, so I can mount it to the Sump Breaker, correct?
 

Last edited by Marvinator; 01-24-21 at 08:49 PM.
  #11  
Old 01-24-21, 08:53 PM
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Basically you have 2 options. Hard wire or cord and plug.
If you hard wire, you have to have a local disconnect. A simple switch will do. This switch should be covered with weatherproof switch cover or in use cover.
You can use UF cable for hard wiring between the switch and the fan. Or you could use flexible conduit as a whip. Whip looks a bit cleaner, but end result will be the same. Wire size should be 14 AWG all the way if connected to 15A circuit. 12AWG if 20A.

If you use cord and plug, you have to install a receptacle (outlet) in in-use cover. Plug acts as local disconnect, so no need for a switch.
 
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Old 01-25-21, 11:28 AM
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Electrical is one of those areas I end up having a lot of questions, just to make sure i'm going about it right.
Question: can I use this wire to run from the outdoor box to the breaker box AND inside the conduit from the outdoor switch box to the Fan? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwir...7426/202210510
 
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Old 01-25-21, 11:35 AM
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can I use this wire to run from the outdoor box to the breaker box AND inside the conduit from the outdoor switch box to the Fan?
You may use NM cable only inside up to the junction box mounted on the wall outside. From that point on, you muse use UF cable or THWN inside conduit. You may not use NM cable outside even in the conduit.
 
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Old 01-26-21, 08:35 PM
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thanks for all the info. One last - probably stupid - question.

once I mount the switch box outside the house, how do I seal the connection behind it. I know the wire will come up out of the house and into the back of the box, but is there some accepted way of sealing it liquid tight other than just caulking it up good?
 
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Old 01-26-21, 08:42 PM
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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-...0661/100170032

There is a special connector for connecting UF cable to make it weatherproof.

As for the wire entering from the wall to the box, I just use normal NM romex connector and use duct seal to weatherproof it. I don't know if there is a better way.
 
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Old 01-26-21, 08:50 PM
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I'm talking about the hole into the house, the space behind the box and water seeping in there. Just Caulk around the box?
 
  #17  
Old 01-26-21, 10:01 PM
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Just Caulk around the box?
As I wrote earlier romex connector + duct seal is what I do. This will fill the hole in wall as well if enough duct seal is used. Caulk probably will work, but can be hard to remove later if needs to and also takes time to dry.
You could caulk top and side meeting the wall as well to make it even better. Do not caulk bottom so any water that finds a way can drain out.
 
 

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