Recessed Lighting
#1
Did a search on installing recessed lighting -- sounds like there is a lot of experience here. I don't anticipate much trouble in getting the units installed, but I would like to know about manufacturers. I want to use the 40Watt eyeball type of recessed lamps. Power is no problem (now that I've got a new run up into the attic thanks to you folks) and I have space to install either the IC type (preferred) or I can install units with plenty of airspace around them. My rafters are a bit over 9" in depth. The only real challenge will be the location of two of the units which -- they will end up under the middle of our bedroom floor. Has anyone installed the type that mount from the bottom up as opposed to the top down rafter mounted units? Am also looking for a manufacturer that makes a variety of trims. I want antique brass and so far have only been able to turn up flat white or polished brass.
Stephen
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Stephen
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#2
If there is no insulation and there never will be, then I'd install the non-IC cans. The heat buildup will be less, and the lamps will last longer.
Halo makes trim finishes in satin aluminum, baffle, brass, satin white, black baffle, polished brass, showerlight, specular cler, and white baffle. There's no antique brass in that list.
Halo makes trim finishes in satin aluminum, baffle, brass, satin white, black baffle, polished brass, showerlight, specular cler, and white baffle. There's no antique brass in that list.
#3
Thanks John. If I have my way, two of the three recessed lights that I want to install will be underneath my upstairs bedroom floor -- I'm hoping the previous owners didn't blow in insulation there but until I open it up I won't know for sure. The third lamp will be underneath attic flooring that does have insulation blown in -- but I can frame it off without much trouble.
So far I've only seen the lamps that I want manufactured by Juno (I thought they were a free email service!) But haven't had a chance to get to any other lighting stores.
So far I've only seen the lamps that I want manufactured by Juno (I thought they were a free email service!) But haven't had a chance to get to any other lighting stores.
#4
I have used Juno for 1 recessed fixture. I went to a Juno because no one else had what I wanted after I checked out all the brands I could find.
Juno has a very broad range of recessed lighting. They cost a fortune compared to other brands, but if they are the only ones with what you need and you can afford it I think you won't be disappointed.
Juno has a very broad range of recessed lighting. They cost a fortune compared to other brands, but if they are the only ones with what you need and you can afford it I think you won't be disappointed.
#6
Back to the recessed lighting for the last time.
Have decided to use Juno Lighting's 5" recessed eyeball fixtures mounting in their IC20R cans. After checking with a local lighting supplier and going through catalogues it bacame apparent that out here Juno was the only one that made an IC rated remodel can. They also were the only ones that I could find that made a polished brass (my second choice -- anything but white) fixture that didn't involve low voltage lighting systems.
I don't forsee any trouble in mounting the fixtures but have come up with a question based upon the wiring directions that are on the junction box that is part of the can assembly. With respect to wiring they say:
"For supply connections use wire suitable for at least
75 degrees C and flexible supply only. Not for pulling
wires. Suitable for use with cable only...."
What is meant by 'flexible supply only'? I was planning to wire into the junction box with 12-2 grounded NM-B Romex which I believed that I could do per code. I just took another trip through my code book and could find nothing that said I couldn't. When I think 'flexible cable' I think the old armored stuff, BX or individual conductors pulled through flexible conduit. Is Romex to be considered as 'flexible cable'?
A second question while I'm here. What are the issues involved in wiring devices into circuits using a different wire gauges. Eventually I will have 5 of these lamps wired via one circuit which will terminate in a junction box and therein wire down to my service panel in the basment. (These lights will be wired into the attic area.) My circuit from the junction box down to the breaker panel is 12-2 NM-B Romex and terminates on a 20 amp breaker - it will include some outlets from the upstairs as well. It would be easier to wire the lights (mostly because the junction boxes on the cans are small though rated for 4 #12 conductors) using 14-2 Romex. If I read the code correctly (and my logic seems to dictate this as well) I cannot join 14 guage cable to 12 guage cable at my junction box without changing the breaker to a 15 amp unit. Am I on the right track here?
Stephen
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Have decided to use Juno Lighting's 5" recessed eyeball fixtures mounting in their IC20R cans. After checking with a local lighting supplier and going through catalogues it bacame apparent that out here Juno was the only one that made an IC rated remodel can. They also were the only ones that I could find that made a polished brass (my second choice -- anything but white) fixture that didn't involve low voltage lighting systems.
I don't forsee any trouble in mounting the fixtures but have come up with a question based upon the wiring directions that are on the junction box that is part of the can assembly. With respect to wiring they say:
"For supply connections use wire suitable for at least
75 degrees C and flexible supply only. Not for pulling
wires. Suitable for use with cable only...."
What is meant by 'flexible supply only'? I was planning to wire into the junction box with 12-2 grounded NM-B Romex which I believed that I could do per code. I just took another trip through my code book and could find nothing that said I couldn't. When I think 'flexible cable' I think the old armored stuff, BX or individual conductors pulled through flexible conduit. Is Romex to be considered as 'flexible cable'?
A second question while I'm here. What are the issues involved in wiring devices into circuits using a different wire gauges. Eventually I will have 5 of these lamps wired via one circuit which will terminate in a junction box and therein wire down to my service panel in the basment. (These lights will be wired into the attic area.) My circuit from the junction box down to the breaker panel is 12-2 NM-B Romex and terminates on a 20 amp breaker - it will include some outlets from the upstairs as well. It would be easier to wire the lights (mostly because the junction boxes on the cans are small though rated for 4 #12 conductors) using 14-2 Romex. If I read the code correctly (and my logic seems to dictate this as well) I cannot join 14 guage cable to 12 guage cable at my junction box without changing the breaker to a 15 amp unit. Am I on the right track here?
Stephen
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#7
Stephen,
First of all, I'm surprised that you had any trouble finding polished brass trim, or IC rated remodel fixtures. Every brand I've ever looked at has these choices. But anyway ...
NM-B fits the requirements for flexible supply, 75-degree wire, and cable.
And yes, you're right -- you cannot use any 14-gauge wire on a 20-amp circuit. Stick with the 12-gauge wire.
First of all, I'm surprised that you had any trouble finding polished brass trim, or IC rated remodel fixtures. Every brand I've ever looked at has these choices. But anyway ...
NM-B fits the requirements for flexible supply, 75-degree wire, and cable.
And yes, you're right -- you cannot use any 14-gauge wire on a 20-amp circuit. Stick with the 12-gauge wire.
#8
Got it John, thanks. Yeah, I was surprised too. I checked with several of our major stores in the Portland Area and got the same story: we don't stock brass fixtures, only white. Anyway, as soon as I get confirmation that Juno can provide what's in their catalogue, I'll start cutting holes!
Thanks again!
Stephen
Thanks again!
Stephen