Powering Pool Heater
#1
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Powering Pool Heater
I am replacing a Tork Timer that previous powered my poop pump, heater, and other components via 240V/20A. The Tork Timer has a fireman's switch that connects to the heater's fireman switch. The heater also has direct 240V/20A from the Tork Timer. What is the purpose of the tork timer? I am not sure if pictures would help.
I am replacing Tork Timer w/ a wireless controller and not sure how the fireman's switch will factor into the install now. The heater still has 240V/20A constant power and the wireless controller (Pentair IntelliConnect) will use the heater's 2-wire remote control.
Page 38 of manual (https://www.royalswimmingpools.com/rp2100manual.pdf)
TIME CLOCK/FIREMAN’S SWITCH
To operate the heater with a time clock, connect the timer to the fireman’s switch connection in the heater’s wiring. The time clock should be of the dual switch type and set to shut off the call for heat to the pool heater 15 to 20 minutes prior to shutting down the pool pump. On millivolt heaters the fireman’s switch connection is a wire nut located in the Violet/Black wiring between the manual toggle switch and the gas valve. For AFT heaters the fireman’s switch connection is located on the 14-pin header connected to the digital control board. Splice into the red wire jumper tagged “Where necessary add “Fireman’s” switch circuit here” to connect the time clock. The fireman’s switch connection on both millivolt and AFT heaters must be a dry contact and must not supply power to the heater. Powering the fireman’s switch connection externally may damage the heater, and is not covered by warranty. Millivolt heaters: Do not exceed 15ft of total wiring using 14 AWG stranded copper wire rated for 105ºC (221ºF) minimum. AFT heaters: Do not exceed 50ft of total wiring using 18 AWG stranded copper wire rated for 105ºC (221ºF) minimum. NOTE: When using a time clock, the heater will display “Clock/ Fireman Sw” when the fireman’s switch is open, indicating that the time clock has shut off the call for heat.
2-Wire Remote Control (On-Off)
This application assumes that only one heating function (pool or spa) is required.
1. Turn on power to the heater.
2. For a 2-Wire Remote Control from a remote without its own sensor, push the mode button to the “POOL” or “SPA” mode and set the desired setpoint (eg. 102 °F for Spa).
3. For a 2-Wire Remote Control from a remote with its own sensor, push the mode button “POOL” or “SPA” mode and set the temperature to the highest setting available on the control. The actual setpoint will be controlled by the remote control.
4. Turn the mode button to "OFF" and remove power from the heater.
5. On the "Remote Interface Harness", connect the BLUE wire to one side of the "REMOTE" switch and connect the other side to either the ORANGE/BLACK wire for "SPA" operation or the BLACK/ORANGE wire for "POOL" operation.
6. Attach wire nut on unused wire to the "Remote Interface Harness."
7. Install the "7-Pin Remote Interface Harness" to the P8 connector and turn power “On” to the heater. To activate the remote control, see page 36.
I am replacing Tork Timer w/ a wireless controller and not sure how the fireman's switch will factor into the install now. The heater still has 240V/20A constant power and the wireless controller (Pentair IntelliConnect) will use the heater's 2-wire remote control.
Page 38 of manual (https://www.royalswimmingpools.com/rp2100manual.pdf)
TIME CLOCK/FIREMAN’S SWITCH
To operate the heater with a time clock, connect the timer to the fireman’s switch connection in the heater’s wiring. The time clock should be of the dual switch type and set to shut off the call for heat to the pool heater 15 to 20 minutes prior to shutting down the pool pump. On millivolt heaters the fireman’s switch connection is a wire nut located in the Violet/Black wiring between the manual toggle switch and the gas valve. For AFT heaters the fireman’s switch connection is located on the 14-pin header connected to the digital control board. Splice into the red wire jumper tagged “Where necessary add “Fireman’s” switch circuit here” to connect the time clock. The fireman’s switch connection on both millivolt and AFT heaters must be a dry contact and must not supply power to the heater. Powering the fireman’s switch connection externally may damage the heater, and is not covered by warranty. Millivolt heaters: Do not exceed 15ft of total wiring using 14 AWG stranded copper wire rated for 105ºC (221ºF) minimum. AFT heaters: Do not exceed 50ft of total wiring using 18 AWG stranded copper wire rated for 105ºC (221ºF) minimum. NOTE: When using a time clock, the heater will display “Clock/ Fireman Sw” when the fireman’s switch is open, indicating that the time clock has shut off the call for heat.
2-Wire Remote Control (On-Off)
This application assumes that only one heating function (pool or spa) is required.
1. Turn on power to the heater.
2. For a 2-Wire Remote Control from a remote without its own sensor, push the mode button to the “POOL” or “SPA” mode and set the desired setpoint (eg. 102 °F for Spa).
3. For a 2-Wire Remote Control from a remote with its own sensor, push the mode button “POOL” or “SPA” mode and set the temperature to the highest setting available on the control. The actual setpoint will be controlled by the remote control.
4. Turn the mode button to "OFF" and remove power from the heater.
5. On the "Remote Interface Harness", connect the BLUE wire to one side of the "REMOTE" switch and connect the other side to either the ORANGE/BLACK wire for "SPA" operation or the BLACK/ORANGE wire for "POOL" operation.
6. Attach wire nut on unused wire to the "Remote Interface Harness."
7. Install the "7-Pin Remote Interface Harness" to the P8 connector and turn power “On” to the heater. To activate the remote control, see page 36.
#2
What is the purpose of the tork timer?
The timer is used to control the pump based on time. The fireman switch keeps the pump running for 5-10 minutes after the timer shuts off the heater to allow the heater to cool off.
I am replacing Tork Timer w/ a wireless controller
This will be controlling the pump.... correct ?