I have an old outlet that I would like to replace with a double outlet/gang box. This outlet has 2 sets of wires coming in that lead back to a junction box. The only other wire in the box is the power source which has 4 additional outlets on it before it connects to the panel. There are no additional outlets after this one. Why would there be 2 sets of wires (1 to each plug) from one circuit? Since I planned on making it a double outlet anyway, can I use one wire for each outlet?
You said two of the cables lead to a junction box. Are there any other cables leaving the junction box? If so, follow them to find out what is powered by those wires exiting your outlet box. If the only cables in the junction box are the two from your outlet box then you have your answer. They don't power anything.
Hello Pilot Dane, out of the junction box, there is a total of 3 cables. 2 go to the one outlet I'd like to update. The 3rd leads to the circuit panel but also has 4 outlets along the way.
One cable is the feed from the panel to the junction box.
Then there are two cables that connect that junction box to the receptacle you want to update.
Sorry.... that doesn't make sense and doesn't sound likely. It would make more sense for one of those cables leaving the junction box to go somewhere you are not aware of.
You're going to need to open the splices in the junction box, remove the receptacle and test the wiring. You could remove both cables from the receptacle and see if they are both live.
How are the cables connected in the junction box and to the receptacle?
I suspect you one power in cable and two power out cables unless the receptacle is half switched. Then one cable goes to a switch..
PJmax, "One cable is the feed from the panel to the junction box.
Then there are two cables that connect that junction box to the receptacle you want to update."
Yes, that is what I believe I'm dealing with. I'll do some further inspection tomorrow, per your recommendation, and get back to this post. Getting ready to get hit with a pretty good storm.
I think it would help everyone if you could provide a wiring diagram of the circuit from the breaker panel breaker to the outlet you want to replace. It is possible, but not likely, that each receptacle on the outlet you want to replace has power from a different breaker.
Just re-verified and included diagram. Junction box has 3 cables; 1 to panel and 2 to a single outlet. Also, turn off circuit and everything on that run shut off. From the area of the junction box, I can see through the hole that the 2 wires feed through. They are going to that one outlet.
Two wires to one outlet from junction box.
of scenario
Do you know what kind of load was on the outlet (washer, gas dryer, sump pump, refrigerator)? I wonder if someone misinterpreted a code requirement for "separate circuits" as separate plugs on the receptacle. The way it is wired does not give any added power or protection just a parallel path for the same circuit. I am assuming that the four outlet circuit from the panel is a two wire circuit (black, white) and not a three wire circuit (black ,red, white).
2john02458 - As far as I know, it's just a general purpose outlet. But at one time it was 1 of only 2 outlets in a 13ft x 11ft sitting room space. The only other outlet was designated for a window ac. The 4 outlets on the cable going to panel are also general use (14/2 - 15amp circuit) that were added during a basement update.
I need help with two things as I am changing out switches and outlets to white color:
1. Converting this light switch to a dimmer but don't understand how to hook up the wires. The old switch has two black wires coming into one gold screw, and another black wire coming in to another gold screw. The new dimmer switch has a black screw, two gold screws and a ground. See pictures.
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/dimmer_old_eda7b9bbdf603e3b2d7549b73312cdd76aef95c2.jpg[/img]
[i]Old switch[/i]
[img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/dimmer_new_5b59e47628d3c43652a8634b9e23f49e29b626f7.jpg[/img]
[i]new dimmer switch[/i]
2. Swapping out this four way switch:
[img]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/4_way_old_3e8f0eb3470236c84af86bee56aa665eea94177a.jpg[/img]
[i]Old four way[/i]
[img]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/4way_new_6535a44967b68d72de855c2f4e68bc304889baba.jpg[/img]
[i]New four way[/i]
Do the wires connected to black screws on old switch just go to black screws on new, and gold to gold?
I know this is probably pretty basic but just wanted to be certain before I screw something up. Thanks.
1960's home without a grounding system. Licensed Electrician will be changing out fuse panel and upgrading 60 amp service to 100 amp service but there is a hitch. (Non Pertinent to the question background to folow): The electric utility wants to ground mount the transformer and bury the new lines to the four houses served by the pole in the backyard. the problem is the pole is old and the Utility wants it replaced but the pole belongs to AT&T soooo...I'm caught in corporate hell.
Anyway, while I am waiting, I want to start to replace circuits and get them ground so I plan to drive two ground rods mor than six feet apart and join them to the neutral bus in the fuse box. I will feed a small sub panel ( less than $40) off the fuse box stove breaker and wire several outlet circuits there (subpanel ground and neutrals separated.)
The real question is, As I wire the ground rods the last one will end up in line with the plumbing and gas lines on the inside. Is it acceptable to run a continuos loop grounding conductor to both ground rods and THEN dive back into the house and pick up the water lines and gas line? That would put the ground rods in between the water bond and the panel but it would still be connected back to the panel as code.
and YES this is about cost...Joe Biden's wire cost makes it necessary to make the best/least use of the stuff as possible