Where is the light switch to turn on a light?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Pierson, MI
Posts: 125
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Where is the light switch to turn on a light?
Ok, figured I needed to get your attention. We just bought and moved into a house. Our garage is detatched, across the driveway. There is a big light on the front of it. I've tried every single switch I can find in the garage and I cannot find the light switch. I also went into the house to see if any switch there would turn it on. (Would be really weird to run it across the driveway to switch on that light...)
But, since we just moved into the house, I sent an email to our realtor asking if she could ask the seller where the switch is at. She says the seller says he didn't know either. He never was able to turn it on.
So, I went out to the garage. I turned on all the light switches. Lights not on. I took the bulb out and held up a non-contact voltage tester to see if there was power and I got no power. Back of the garage, there is an overhang where there are lights under it. To turn those on, there's a switch outside the garage. It's some kind of whether proof light switch. Doesn't look like a normal light switch. I've looked all around the garage and can't find anything else like that.
I don't mind playing around with the breaker box. I took the front of it off to see if I could somehow get a clue where it's going to. Problem with the garage is they finished the walls. Also, they put up plywood for walls instead of drywall. If I were to take the plywood off so I can trace the wire, I would have to take off the garage door track for both garage doors. That sounds like a pain and something I might not get it lined up again on my own. (If i was drywall, I would've cut open the wall by now already.)
Don't know if anyone has any ideas how to find it? The bulb to the outside light looks like a socket like a normal lightbulb, but it's quite a bit larger. I was wondering maybe I could somehow back feed power from the light fixture and use some kind of toner to see if I could follow the wire in the walls. But, I'm not 100% sure how I'd do that.
But, since we just moved into the house, I sent an email to our realtor asking if she could ask the seller where the switch is at. She says the seller says he didn't know either. He never was able to turn it on.
So, I went out to the garage. I turned on all the light switches. Lights not on. I took the bulb out and held up a non-contact voltage tester to see if there was power and I got no power. Back of the garage, there is an overhang where there are lights under it. To turn those on, there's a switch outside the garage. It's some kind of whether proof light switch. Doesn't look like a normal light switch. I've looked all around the garage and can't find anything else like that.
I don't mind playing around with the breaker box. I took the front of it off to see if I could somehow get a clue where it's going to. Problem with the garage is they finished the walls. Also, they put up plywood for walls instead of drywall. If I were to take the plywood off so I can trace the wire, I would have to take off the garage door track for both garage doors. That sounds like a pain and something I might not get it lined up again on my own. (If i was drywall, I would've cut open the wall by now already.)
Don't know if anyone has any ideas how to find it? The bulb to the outside light looks like a socket like a normal lightbulb, but it's quite a bit larger. I was wondering maybe I could somehow back feed power from the light fixture and use some kind of toner to see if I could follow the wire in the walls. But, I'm not 100% sure how I'd do that.
#2
figured I needed to get your attention.
That looks like a 175w mercury vapor type wide area light like you'd see on a telephone pole.
Typically they are controlled by a photocell in the top of the fixture.
That would mean the fixture could be always live and no need for a switch.
Could you use a toner to locate the wiring maybe..... but not terribly easy to follow behind plywood.
I could imagine that light being on its own circuit direct to the panel.
The breaker would be turned off if the light wasn't needed.
If you use a toner..... kill power to the entire garage panel.
Remove fixture and connect toner to white and black. Check at panel first.
Looks like an attic. Did you check up there for wiring ?
#3
Member
Remove bulb from socket and test in a known operating socket. If bulb doesn't light, replace it. If bulb lights, remove light assembly from wall and using a voltmeter, check for 120 vac at the power cable connection. If 120 vac , replace light assembly. If no 120 vac, remove drywall on inside of wall and trace cable from light assembly to breaker. If no 120 vac at breaker output, replace breaker.
#4
Group Moderator
Most often with those lights I've had the photo cell module on top go bad. They are easily replaced without tools. It's usually a plastic dome on top.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Pierson, MI
Posts: 125
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I'll have to look tonight to see if there's a photo cell on top of it. I can see a white and black wire where the light fixture meets the garage where it's visible for about half an inch. I tried using the non-contact voltage tester there and didn't get anything either. It would seem if there's a sensor on the top of the light, those wires would be hot all the time and the non contact voltage tester would've beeped at me.
#6
I suspect the lamp may need to be replaced also, if so remove it and install a new LED fixture.
Geo🇺🇸
Geo🇺🇸
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Pierson, MI
Posts: 125
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Per the attached images, I do not see a photo cell on the light. (The picture quality isn't the best. The driveway slopes uphill and I was very uncomfortable getting on a ladder high enough to take the picture I did.
What is the little circle dot on the image below? Is that a light sensor?
What is the little circle dot on the image below? Is that a light sensor?
#9
Is that a light sensor?
#10
I suspect that circle is the photocell.
Looking at the picture it appears to be an LED bulb installed. IF that is the case then you need to make sure there is no ballast in the fixture otherwise that lamp is likely toast. IF possible it might be a good option to take the light down and do the troubleshooting on the bench.
Looking at the picture it appears to be an LED bulb installed. IF that is the case then you need to make sure there is no ballast in the fixture otherwise that lamp is likely toast. IF possible it might be a good option to take the light down and do the troubleshooting on the bench.
#11
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Pierson, MI
Posts: 125
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
So, I just got up on a ladder and disconnected the light from the wall. There are three screws. When I took it off, there wasn't any wirenuts I couldn't disconnect it to take down the whole light fixture. (I'd rather not cut it.) But, I got the non-contact voltage tester again and the black wire is hot. So, it's getting power all the time.
So, if that's the case, either the light fixture is bad or the lightbulb is bad. I was thinking the simplest way to figure that out is to replace the bulb. But, I just looked them up. They were pretty expensive. Looks like about $80 to buy a bulb to just test if the one there is bad. If I were to stick a multimeter in the socket, man.... I'd be lucky to not have the hot and neutral not touch and short something out. So, the safe option is to replace the bulb.....
If the light fixture needs to be replaced, then I'm not sure how I'd do that since the wire isn't spliced already. I'd rather not splice it and give a part of the wire that water can touch wire exposed. So, then that would take me back to removing the plywood inside the garage so I can work on the wire where it's more weather proof to have a splice.
Any ideas?
So, if that's the case, either the light fixture is bad or the lightbulb is bad. I was thinking the simplest way to figure that out is to replace the bulb. But, I just looked them up. They were pretty expensive. Looks like about $80 to buy a bulb to just test if the one there is bad. If I were to stick a multimeter in the socket, man.... I'd be lucky to not have the hot and neutral not touch and short something out. So, the safe option is to replace the bulb.....
If the light fixture needs to be replaced, then I'm not sure how I'd do that since the wire isn't spliced already. I'd rather not splice it and give a part of the wire that water can touch wire exposed. So, then that would take me back to removing the plywood inside the garage so I can work on the wire where it's more weather proof to have a splice.
Any ideas?
#12
There has to be a splice someplace. Either inside the fixture or inside the building. (I suspect inside the fixture) There is no way the wires go all the way to the panel without a splice.
As I posted earlier, that lamp (bulb) appears to be an LED. You should be able to remove the lamp and test it on the ground. I would also want to confirm that the old ballast has been removed or bypassed or any LED lamp that is installed will be destroyed.
A non-contact tester will tell you if there is a hot wire nearby but it will not tell you if you have a good neutral. The only way to tell that is with a meter. Sadly the socket is likely the easiest place to test.
As I posted earlier, that lamp (bulb) appears to be an LED. You should be able to remove the lamp and test it on the ground. I would also want to confirm that the old ballast has been removed or bypassed or any LED lamp that is installed will be destroyed.
A non-contact tester will tell you if there is a hot wire nearby but it will not tell you if you have a good neutral. The only way to tell that is with a meter. Sadly the socket is likely the easiest place to test.
Last edited by Tolyn Ironhand; 06-26-22 at 01:31 PM.
#13
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Pierson, MI
Posts: 125
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I'm assuming there's a splice also. Although, maybe they ran it directly to the panel without splicing it. The panel is just a few feet under the light. Removing the bulb, I don't have any way to test it on the ground without removing the light fixture because I don't have anything else with that socket size. Which leads me to having to either splice the wire or remove the wood panel so I can remove the fixture and test it at the bench.
#14
Although, maybe they ran it directly to the panel without splicing it. The panel is just a few feet under the light.
Since you said that you don't have anything that has that size socket, I suspect it is a mogul base socket. You could get a medium to mogul socket adapter. https://www.amazon.com/MEDIUM-MOGUL-.../dp/B010WRYRYU
#15
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Pierson, MI
Posts: 125
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I just ordered a standard bulb to e39 adapter. Now, the bulb I have says it's an ex39, not e39. I googled it and it appears the ex39 has a longer tip where it goes into the light socket. So, maybe an e39 adapter won't reach far enough?
#18
Before you stick that $40 bulb into that fixture I highly recommend checking that there is no ballast in the fixture and you only have 120 volts at the socket or that $40 bulb will go *Poof*
CircuitBreaker
voted this post useful.
#19
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Pierson, MI
Posts: 125
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I didn't see a ballast when I looked earlier. I'm not 100% sure how to tell if I have 120v in the socket. The only way I can think to do it would be a multimeter. But, trying to put the positive and negative lead inside a light socket and not letting them touch on a ladder, I'll be lucky if I don't mess or blow something.
Btw, to make sure its supposed to be putting out 120v at the socket, it only works at dark. So, earlier I stuck a piece of electrical tape over the light sensor. I'm assuming electrical tape would be good enough on a bright day to trick the light that it's dark out.
Btw, to make sure its supposed to be putting out 120v at the socket, it only works at dark. So, earlier I stuck a piece of electrical tape over the light sensor. I'm assuming electrical tape would be good enough on a bright day to trick the light that it's dark out.
#22
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Pierson, MI
Posts: 125
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Well, I ordered a new light fixture. So, there's no question in my mind I won't be able to get it working.
Ordered this instead...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hopefully, it's decent.
Ordered this instead...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hopefully, it's decent.