Replacing single pole switch with smart switch (GFCI)
#1
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Replacing single pole switch with smart switch (GFCI)
Hi,
While fixing my pool light, and decided to upgrade to a smart switch.
Currently, I have is an old 2-gang outdoor metal box containing:
- A GFCI receptacle
- A Single-pole switch for the pool light
The pool light gets power from the LOAD side of the GFCI (note that I omitted the ground wires in the picture).
The smart switch I purchased requires a neutral wire.
So, I would need two neutral wires: one for the smart switch, and one for the pool light - but I only have one, coming from the LOAD side of the GFCI.
Can I pull the neutral that goes to the light, the white wire from the smart switch, add a short piece of wire from the load side of the GFCI, and pig tail the 3?
Or should I use the LINE side neutral for the smart switch? (i.e. bypassing the GFCI for the smart switch).
Thanks,
Fabio
While fixing my pool light, and decided to upgrade to a smart switch.
Currently, I have is an old 2-gang outdoor metal box containing:
- A GFCI receptacle
- A Single-pole switch for the pool light
The pool light gets power from the LOAD side of the GFCI (note that I omitted the ground wires in the picture).
The smart switch I purchased requires a neutral wire.
So, I would need two neutral wires: one for the smart switch, and one for the pool light - but I only have one, coming from the LOAD side of the GFCI.
Can I pull the neutral that goes to the light, the white wire from the smart switch, add a short piece of wire from the load side of the GFCI, and pig tail the 3?
Or should I use the LINE side neutral for the smart switch? (i.e. bypassing the GFCI for the smart switch).
Thanks,
Fabio
#2
All neutrals must connect to the load side.
You can combine them into a splice.
You can combine them into a splice.
Last edited by PJmax; 07-01-22 at 09:40 AM. Reason: typo
#3
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You have not identified your smart switch but I would connect the smart switch neutral to the LOAD side neutral of the GFCI since the smart switch hot wire is from GFCI load side.
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Use GFCI load. The draw on neutral likely is enough to be a GFCI imbalance. Use a pigtail if you need to.
My only concern is - will the draw on the neutral (LOAD side) cause a GFCI imbalance, making the GFCI trip?
The switch is a pretty standard smart 1-gang WiFi smart switch (here)
#5
A GFI test for leakage to ground.... an imbalance from hot to neutral.
You are connecting the hot and neutral of the smart switch as well as the hot and neutral from the load. Therefore the load is balanced.
You are connecting the hot and neutral of the smart switch as well as the hot and neutral from the load. Therefore the load is balanced.