Exposed mini junction box for splicing 14/3 wire?


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Old 08-16-22, 09:19 PM
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Exposed mini junction box for splicing 14/3 wire?

Hi!

I am looking for the smallest possible junction box to extend an existing 14/3 NM wire. Specifically, I am replacing the under-cabinet lights in our kitchen. After removing the existing lights, I am left with a switched cable coming out of the wall about 10 inches. I'd like to extend this wire. Since it will be sitting right underneath the cabinet, the junction box should ideally be as small as possible, not hideous, and be code-compliant for exposed locations. Any recommendations?

Thanks so much! Cheers - MM
 
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Old 08-17-22, 04:16 AM
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Hi, is that cable accessible from above or below?
Geo🇺🇸
 
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Old 08-17-22, 09:30 AM
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Are you sure it's 14/3 ? That would mean two switched circuits.
14/3 is red, black, white w/ground.
14/2 is black, white w/ground.

Readily available splice boxes called handy boxes.
They are 1-1/2" deep which doesn't make them low profile...... handy boxes search

I see many low profile boxes for splicing but the bulk of them are available in Europe where most of the wiring is surface mounted. You could get those boxes shipped here but I don't see a UL listed on them which means I wouldn't recommend them.

Some pvc boxes I found that may work.....
nuvo undercabinet pvc box
undercabinet pvc box
 
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Old 08-17-22, 09:48 AM
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I'd at least consider using that extra 10" to go up into the cabinet and install a surface mount junction box in the cabinet, or recess an old work box in the wall behind the cabinet with a blank plate on the front. Much cleaner and nicer IMO.
 
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Old 08-17-22, 06:04 PM
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The size of the junction box required will be determined by the size and quantity of the conductors installed in the box. Box fill rules are still required to be followed. See NEC table 314.16(B)
 
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Old 08-18-22, 06:15 AM
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Thanks for the replies. I'm going to address them all at once:

@PJmax: Correction: this is indeed 14-2 wire, not 14-3.

@Geochurri: Accessibility: I assume you mean accessibility from inside the wall. Only from below. Anything can be done, though, but it would require removing the cabinets. The wall is also insulated. Too much trouble at this point.

@PJmax: Small splice boxes: the most attractive (to me) I have found so far are the Wago inline splice connectors (https://www.wago.com/global/installa...ver/p/221-2401). While Wago is getting more popular in the US, these connectors are a bit harder to find, but it can be done. Wago even makes boxes for these and similar connectors (such as the Wagobox Light - https://www.wago.com/gb/enclosures). Maybe I'll try to pick those up on my next travels.

@Zorftd: Going up into the cabinet: that does indeed seem to be an option. I'm trying to go all the way up to the top of the cabinet to place a transformer anyway. However, there is a clean and hidden path that would not require me to run a wire through the cabinets, hence my initial post. Still, it's an option.

Lastly, a low-profile box with a receptacle on the side might be an option, if I can find one, and then using a simple extension cord. Not as elegant, but it can all be hidden in this particular case.

A bit more pondering...
 
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Old 08-18-22, 06:27 AM
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Hi, my thought was if you could see the cable going up the wall from below or above it might be possible to pull it back and make the splice there and not under the cabinet.
JAT
Geo🇺🇸
 
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Old 08-19-22, 08:47 AM
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Not sure what I am missing here & having a hard time picturing the problem. You said you already had an undercabinet fixture there & removed it. So buy a new fixture that has room to make your connections within the fixture itself. If you don't want light under that particular cabinet, then just turn that light off or disconnect it. If you have possible exposed wires between fixtures, then use wire mould.
 
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Old 08-19-22, 09:20 AM
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Maybe it helps to explain what I'm trying to do: split the current single switched line into two individually controllable lines powering individual light setups.

1. Run the now-exposed cable from the switch up to the top of the cabinets and terminate in a surface-mount box with two receptacles.
2. Connect two plug-in Lutron Caseta wireless dimmer switches (going with the plug-in version because they are more versatile)
3. Connect magnetic dimmable transformers to these switches
4. Run two individual sets of LED light setups that are powered by these transformers
4a. one of these sets will be the under-cabinet lighting, which will be LED strips in flush-mounted aluminum channels set into routed grooves within wooden enclosures to be mounted under the cabinets where they will match the look of the cabinets and be seamless, pretty, and functional
5. Replace the 1-gang wall plate of the switch with a 3-gang wall plate to host, besides the switch, two Lutron Caseta Pico remote controls that are paired with the dimmer switches on top of the cabinets.
6. Place a couple more Pico remotes where they would make sense.

The mandate by SWMBO is to "do it only once and properly so that it will never have to be touched again. Must be neat, easily cleanable and maintainable". Tall order...
 
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Old 08-19-22, 01:45 PM
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The wire may come from above. Have you checked.
Based on what you want to do you do not want any splice box under the cabinet.
You want a box set inside the cabinet out of sight.
You could even use a cut-in gem box.
 
 

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