New construction garage with loft, sub-panel to be ~25ft from the garage level main panel. I probably don't need 100A but prefer at least 6 circuits and haven't found a Homeline that would work other then the one noted below. Square D Homeline 100-Amp 8-Space sub-panel in loft of new detached garage. The sub-panel will be fed by the existing 200A panel in garage which has its own separate service/meter (not from house). Ive read that 100A sub requires #4 copper or #2 aluminum. I cant seem to locate #4 copper or Al in SER sheath local but I can get Southwire-2-2-2-4-Black-Stranded-Al-MHF by the foot.
Can I run the 2-2-2-4 shown from the main through drilled holes in the sill/joists/studs like a typical run or will it require conduit?
Any other suggestions is appreciated.
Thanks. FF
Last edited by FairwayFatty; 11-28-22 at 10:11 AM.
Are you after 100A for the subpanel due to the future expected loads? Or just trying to size a panel with enough spaces?
If you are just after a decent quantity of single pole spaces, you can use pretty much anything for a subpanel. You could even put in a 200A main 42 space panel if you want, and feed it with a 40A feed. I just don't want you to think that just because the label on the box says 100A that you MUST feed it at that rating. The breaker in the main panel feeding the sub is what will drive the conductor size to use.
I agree with Caddymac's statement. What are your anticipated loads in the loft? If it's just a bathroom plus some receptacles/lights, you can get by with a 30A feed. If you're running a water heater, heater/AC, then you're probably looking at a 60A feed.
100A is a lot of power and probably not required for your loft space. As mentioned, it's definitely worth getting a 100A panel for the breaker spaces, but then feeding it with 30/40/60A cable and breaker in your main panel as needed.
Are you after 100A for the sub-panel due to the future expected loads? Or just trying to size a panel with enough spaces?
Well I'm not sure I'd actually need the full 100A. Here is the loft layout i was thinking
50A apartment size stove/oven
20A microwave
20A refrigerator
20A entertainment center
15A bath and outlets
15A general lighting
15A general outlets
Thanks for the response and any suggestions.
Does the attached load calculation of 59A look reasonable (large loft room with small bath) and would I need to go with an 80A (59*1.25=73.75) breaker and ok to use 4-4-4-6 copper on 20ft run? Larger SER wire seems to be hard to get local.
(Pending mini split fed by 200A in garage level not loft panel)
I have a GFCI receptacle mounted in an exterior box with an in-use cover in one of our landscape beds. We use it for Christmas lights. It's mounted on a length of 2x4 sticking up from the ground and is about a foot above the ground. Pvc conduit runs from the bottom of the box to a foot or so below ground level, where the UF cable enters and runs up to the receptacle. All the other knockouts in the box are sealed with the little plugs provided for that purpose.
A couple of years ago, the gfci started tripping even with nothing plugged into it. I took the receptacle out to find the box half filled with damp dirt. The dirt was bridging the load terminal on the receptacle and causing it to trip. I had no idea how the dirt got in there, but I cleaned it out well, and for good measure, took a wad of duct seal putty and sealed around the UF cable where it came out of the conduit as well as I could. Everything work fine again.
Fast forward to last night when the GFCI started tripping again. Took it apart today and found it half full of damp dirt again. The duct seal was there, but had been pushed partially away from the wires.
What the heck is happening here? I guess my first thought was ants or other insect activity, but there is no sign of ants or other insects in the box....from all appearances it's just dirt...damp dirt. Worms?
Anybody seen anything like this or have an explanation? I guess I'll just try sealing the cable entry with something stickier than duct seal.
This post was triggered by " [h4][url=https://www.doityourself.com/forum/electrical-ac-dc/639764-installing-receptacles-inside-cabinets.html]Installing receptacles inside cabinets[/url][/h4]
salguod on Yesterday"
In that post I mentioned that leaving a hair dryer plugged in was not safe thing to do.
However, at my house we tend to use the toaster every day. My wife has a habit of unplugging it when not in use and making sure it's not plugged in every night. I say don't do that since plugging it in and out constantly will actually make it unsafe as opposed to just leaving it plugged in.
But now I question my "common" sense.
Is there any real difference between a hair dryer and a toaster if plugged in? Does it make a real difference one way or the other?
11-28-22, 08:14 AM
