So - have a wiring question about going from a 4 wire (3+G) cable to a 3 wire (2 +G) cable.
As is there is a designated circuit which comes from the breaker (double pole) with 3+G (Old cable, red, white, black and G) to an outlet.
The cable OUT of the outlet other side goes to a dishwasher - and is a 2+G cable.
In the box, the red (from 3G) and the black (from 2G) are connected with a wire nut. The black and white from the 3g and the white from the 2g are connected to the outlet.
I was going to replace the outlet with a 20A GFCI - but hadn't realised until I got in there that there was a 3+G cable which the wiring instructions say not to use.
Can I wire in the GFCI the same way as the previous outlet?
Yes... you can install a GFI receptacle in that location as it's after the MWBC split.
The red and white are still carried thru and out to another location.
The black and white will feed your GFI receptacle.
Of utmost importance.... make sure the neutral is a GOOD splice.
You don't want the neutral splice to open in operation.
The black and white from the 3g and the white from the 2g are connected to the outlet.
I'm not sure I understand - could I clarify please?
Currently the Red from supply is connected by wire nut to the black that carries through to the dishwasher outlet (see picture attached)
When you say 'the black and white from the 2g' should be connected to the outlet - where would the red from the supply be connected to?
And one other question;
I'd like to add another outlet , between the washer GFCI and the dishwasher - which will be nearer the Laundry sink. I know I COULD use a non GFCI outlet as long as protected by the upstream GFCI outlet - but presumably no harm making the second outlet GFCI as well?
Getting solar quotes. Far too expensive to do a panel replacement and service upgrade as I'd have to:
1. Rip up 30 feet of driveway to trench and get into my neighbor 2 doors down's yard to hit the power company's transformer. SDGE is also about 12 months out to even talk to you about service upgrades.
2. Move the panel location as it's 12" above the gas meter. Good ol' 70s. That is not allowed anymore and would need moved and all house circuits relocated to the new location.
SOO... I am trying to make my current panel work. It's a 1974 Arrow Hart Murray with nothing but that and a UL label. No part #, no serial number, no ratings. nothing. How the hell was this the "way it was done" back then? I checked 4 of my neighbors - same panel - no markings. It has a 100a feed from the meter, two 1 gauge wires. What I really want to find out, and what I am hoping for, is that this is a 125a panel. Reason being I could get 50a of solar on that. Reasoning:
125a panel, 120 rule = 150a.
100a main breaker. 50a solar breaker. 9.2kw system.
9200/240 = 38.33a. 80% rule = 38.33*100/80 = 47.91a.
That's adequate for my needs and would really cut down the complexity of this job.
I have Googled everywhere, I cannot find any documentation, pictures, ways to ID, anything on these old panels. It has been trouble free the 20 years I have owned the home.
I have a ceiling fan with lights that is controlled by a dimmer switch. The dimmer switch has two controls on it; one for the fan and one for the lights. The switch has one power source, and then two wires {both hot jwhen switch is on } that are pigtailed to wires that go up to the fan. So, two hot wires going up to the fan, I assume. I want to put recessed lighting in this room by grabbing power from the wires that go to the fan. I will remove the fan while I work on the lighting. What I would like is to have one of the controls on the dimmer switch control only the recessed lighting, and the other control the fan and its light. How can I go about doing that? Does anything have to be changed in the switch? I haven't removed the fan yet, so I don't know if I have 14/2 or 14/3 wire up there. I assume 14/3. I hope some of you can visualize what I've written and give me some advice.
02-04-23, 12:28 PM
