How to power sink insinerator and dishwasher from same outlet
A little confused about sink insinerator outlet wiring setup. I swapped out the old outlet for a new one. The new addition in the setup is a dish washer. I thought it will be powered from the same outlet. But I noticed this...
When I plug in insinerator there's no power in the outlet until I turn on the switch to operate the insinerator. When I unplug it, there's power in the plug, regardless if the switch is on or off. I don't get this. Is there a way this plug can be setup up to provide power to the dishwasher and insinerator as well?
How are you testing for power?
How did you wire the new receptacle?
Did you check the tab on the gold screw side of the old one. It might have been cut.
It sounds like your outlet is switch controlled. That way you can turn the disposal on and off with the switch. The outlet can be split so one socket is switch controlled while the other socket stays continuously powered but you need to somehow get continuous power to the outlet. Post a good clear picture or drawing of the wiring in the outlet and we'll see if there is any way to make it work. It might not hurt to see a picture/drawing of the wiring at the switch as well.
I plugged in the the insinerator and a work light-somebody stole my receptacle tester and wire strippers urgh!@#$%^
Did not check the side tab of the old one.
It's wired just as normal.
Yes the receptavcle is switch controlled. Here is a quick pic I had on my phone. I can add more later including the blue wire connection in the toggle switch above, which I believe is a regular power inline switch.
A few things...
* It looks like there are two blue wires coming into the box, but only one is connected. Where does the other one go?
* The brass tab is broken off for the top/bottom receptacle, but only one blue wire is attached. So only the bottom receptacle can ever be live.
* There's no box. All receptacles and junctions need to be in a metal or plastic electrical box.
When I unplug it, there's power in the plug, regardless if the switch is on or off.
You're testing it with a worklight? So when you plug the worklight in, it's always on regardless of the switch position?
"You're testing it with a worklight? So when you plug the worklight in, it's always on regardless of the switch position?"No. When I plug in the light it's off until I turn on the switch.
There's only one blue line attached to the receptacle. It has no power when switch above is off. But the blue looped wire at the top of the receptacle (see pic below) has constant power. When I turn on switch, the blue wire attached to receptacle gets powered and now both wires have power. Receptacle tabs are intact. So both sides operate the same way. The switch operates as normal. It has power to right side leg when switch is off. When turned on now both legs have power.
When testing is successfully completed I will install a proper box.
The picture are nothing but big blobs.
Based on the description, cut the tab between the gold screws and attach the second blue wire to the second gold screw. One socket will be switched and the other will be constant power.
It comes down to what is the other black wire that is not attached to the outlet. If it is constantly energized then there is hope of making one of the sockets hot all the time for a dishwasher. But, for now with only one hot conductor going to the outlet you cannot have both a switched socket for the disposal and a constant on for the dishwasher.
All finished. I now have a constant hot (Dishwasher) and a switched port (insinerator). Attaching a pigtail to the constant hot did it. Thanx guys.
I am wondering how this type of wiring is done. that is, there's a constant hot line, that goes into the box and loops out. Other wires are attached to the receptacle and become hot only if the insinerator switch above is activated. Can someone draw a diagram on how these a wired.
I have a pair of junction boxes that's half buried in dirt. They have been there since I don't know when several owners ago perhaps installed in 1990s.
One box is low voltage for an old alarm system with phone wires and door bells etc...which I am going to just cut and eliminate.
The other box I need to keep, it goes to a sconce by the gate, a motion light, an outside receptacle and there is a 4th line that goes somewhere I have yet to find the other end.
Unfortunately the bottom of this weatherproof box has corroded to the point that the two 1/2" PVC conduits broke away from it.
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/j5N7Gcw1/IMG-20230407-194900.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/Gp4Yjdcd/IMG-20230407-195036.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/1zbFC2t6/IMG-20230407-194921.jpg[/img]
The electrician who installed these PVC conduits, sleeved them with something seemingly as thick (or even thicker) then SCH80 PVC. It feels solid not pliable and rubbery like most I have seen. The sleeves run right up to the male adapter that I need to replace.
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/c4cQxF9y/IMG-20230407-194947.jpg[/img]
My plan A is to see if I can find the other end of these wiring, there are five conductors inside each wire nut and so I have to find the other end of all five, open these boxes up and see if I can pull back the wires in them and replace with longer wires, if that's successful then I will need to put in couplings where the two male adapters are and a short piece of PVC conduit to raise new box higher above grade.
If I cannot find where all the wires go, or if these wires won't pull due to dirt/water sitting in the conduits for ages, then I have to go with a plan B which is to try and cut away the male adapters with the existing wiring in place, then cut back this thick sleeve another inch or so to expose form of the conduit for cementing on new fittings. In that case the new box will sit even lower than the current one. Any recommendation on what kind of box would be best suited for this situation where the box will be right at grade and subject to occasional flooding in south Florida?
The other issue is whether plan A or B, I will need to cut the sleeve back. I am not sure how best to do that. Normally with a rachet PVC tubing cutter this may work because it will cut gradually in evenly with the tubing cutter going around and around, but these two conduits are so close to each other there is no room between them.
[color=#212121]So in a small galley type kitchen (starter home) the right wall is shared with a bathroom. On the kitchen side is the first entry of an outlet that, downstream to it is another outlet for the refrigerator, which then downstreams into the bathroom for the outlet there. This then loops back into the kitchen for the otr microwave outlet, then downstreams for the stove (It's gas, so it's basically to power the range clock.) [/color]
[color=#212121]Should I[/color]
[color=#212121]1-install a gfci at the first outlet, regular receptacles outlets on all downstream outlets and particularly mark the one in the bathroom as gfci protected? Or,[/color]
[color=#212121]2-install gfci in the bathroom outlet only? In this case, does the kitchen sink on the opposite side pose a concern and demand that this outlet should be a gfci type?[/color]
[color=#212121]3-install gfci at the first outlet, then another gfci in the bathroom outlet as well?[/color]