I am planning to add an electrical outlet (1 gang).
I am finding a lot of metal retrofit boxes for drywall-no stud.
Is it not very common to retrofit to stud?
If the wall is open you want a slap-on or hammer-on box. They can be attached with SM screws.
If the sheetrock is in place and you want to cut a hole next to it..... use a smart box.
Most old work (retrofit) boxes work even if the cutout is right next to stud. Old work boxes that can be mounted to the stud is only available in plastic (at least I haven't seen one). This probably is because screws will have to be driven in angle from inside and it is someone difficult to manufacture with steel.
Some steel boxes have 1/8" holes on sides (toward front) that you can drive screw through, but I am not sure if that is their intended purpose.
Metal old-work box and Madison bars/straps (F-straps, battleshups, etc). There's bound to be videos on YT showing how to use them. Watch several because there's a right way and a wrong way to install them and not everything on YT is correct.
If the wall has drywall then you do not need to attach it to a stud. Just use a metal remodel box and attach it to the drywall using madison straps/F straps
I'm not the one doing the electrical, got another individual who does it for a living on oil platforms going to do it, but I'm trying to lay out the planning for the box, what wire I need, and breaker boxes/breakers. He'd do it, but trying to get him to do something when he's onshore and doesn't have any physical work to do is a pain. I'm basically at a deadlock on what I'm going to need breaker wise with the setup.
It's going to be an 18x50 "cathedral" roof shed with a loft over where I plan to put the bedroom. The main heavy electrical items:
4.68gpm instant water heater in the bathroom that will feed the shower, sink, and washing machine requiring 3 40amp fuses and 8 gauge wire
1.56gpm instant hot water heater in the kitchen for the sink requiring 1 40amp fuse and 8 gauge
Dryer 30 amp fuse (going with 8 gauge)
Range 40 amp 8 gauge wire
4 zone AC/Heater unit 40 amp 8 wire
Those are my major power draws. Basically, I want to put a small breaker box near them for easy turnoffs/disconnects. I'm pretty anal (20 years of light safety offshore with multiple accidents or construction errors built that up) that way as my waterlines are also going to have shut off valves for the hose bibs so I can shut off the water inside the house for freezes as well as on my branches off the main water line to feed the instants and cold water faucets so I can shut down by sections if needed. And simply put, I have to give the bank the wiring diagram and estimated costs for the electrical (had to do it for plumbing as well as septic field as well for the packet.) If my buddy wasn't lazy where there isn't any actual work to be done, he could probably do the diagram without thinking. But, as he doesn't do non-work planning unless he has to, I'm stuck and clueless as I can maybe wire a socket without shocking myself more then 2 times.
So, I know I'm going to need 3 40amp double poles for the bathroom and 2 40amp double poles for the kitchen plus the 40amp for the AC disconnect. And I'm trying to figure out the best way to run it on paper that will get approval and what size breaker boxes I'm going to need besides the 200amp for the main as well as the wiring. I was originally thinking of running from the main breaker, but I'm pretty sure that will push the limits even if they're not all operational at the time. But, I would like ideas on how I should draw the plans for setup to turn for my construction loan packet. And if there is any better ideas, I'd like to hear them. I have access to 600' of 8, 400' of 10, 400' of 4, and 2000' of 12 wiring that I already have laying around (going to be using some, but not much for my garage/workshop mostly 10 and 12.) So, prelim plans has a main switch/cutoff, a main breaker, 1 kitchen, 1 bath, and a mini-split cutoff box. But my knowledge on how big of boxes I'm going to need. The heaviest draw for the bathroom is going to be 102 amps for the water heater. For the kitchen, it's going to be the range slightly outdoing the small instant water heater.
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First pic you can see power wires in the middle and my cable wire on the right. the mystery wires are on the left. I cant find them in my attic. I have to move the wires up some so I kinda need to make sure I'm not going to get zapped from them. they don't go to the high part of telephone pole either.
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06-01-23, 01:32 PM
