There was discussion in a thread a while back about the limit of 220/230v breakers you are allowed in panels. I didn't not realize that.
Per code, how many 220/230v 30 amp breakers am I allowed in this panel?
(I need 8 plus one 220/230 50 amp for a welder. The rest will be 110/115v 15 amp breakers)
2P breakers? You mean the double pole breakers? I'm not sure I understand "2P breakers".
If you're referring to single pole 220/230v... humm, I'm not sure I realized they come that way. Mine are all double pole. To be honest, I'm using "220/230v" as a slang term. I am assuming I have 240v breakers.
I do agree that nine 240v double pole breakers will take up 18 spaces.
I was going to put all of them in the bottom slots. I've already wired 2 of them into the bottom slots. I can still rearrange everything else & put all the rest at the top. Thanks for that tip.
But why? Just your preference or is there a technical reason?
2P = Two pole breakers which is the proper nomenclature. Some say "double pole breakers" but they also say 220v. There is no limit to two pole breakers in a panel.
You can't get 240 volts from a single pole breaker unless you tap off a high leg of a three-phase panel. That is also not allowed as single pole breakers are only rated 120v for 120/240 volt panels. (Note: the high leg of a three phase 120/240 volt panel is 208v to ground)
You do not have to put the largest loads to the top. The bus in the panel can carry many amps.
Single pole "220 to 240 volt" breakers are not used in the U.S. for 240 volts because for 240 volt power both wires must be breakered. Contrasted with in countries using only 220 to 240 (or more) volts 240 volts is hot to neutral and just a single pole breaker is needed for a branch circuit.
A two pole 240 volt breaker in the U.S. may have just one toggle.
So I'm replacing older style plugs and switches.
Turned off the breaker or so I thought!
Seems there are two breakers with same description, didn't check to see if things were hot at plugs. (That's where the stupid comes in)
I replaced 6 of the 11, no problem. Guess I was lucky.
On the 7th one after taking out the screws it was stuck to the wall with old paint. I used my screwdriver to pry and break it loose. Screwdriver in side of plug touched hot terminal to box,shorted out as to be expected. Breaker tripped, checked breaker and saw my mistake. Since power was off now I finished the plug. Turned the breaker back on it won't go on.
Pulled the plug disconnected wiring, tried breaker again.
Same thing.
I thought bad breaker and disconnected hot from breaker.
Turned on breaker and it's good.
Didn't have meter with me check for short on wiring.
If I shorted to ground like I did is there something else I could have done to not be able to reset breakerRead More
Greetings,
The original story was posted there:
[url]https://www.doityourself.com/forum/electric-large-kitchen-home-appliances/630067-fridge-gives-electric-shock-after-moving-into-garage.html[/url]
Since then we ended up buying a brand-new fridge.
As we found out recently it shocks also.
There is only one power outlet in the garage.
I decided to replace GFCI and that's what I found when I opened the receptacle.
A small three lamp plugin tester gives correct reading (red off, middle and right lamps are yellow) but the contactless tester gives voltage on the fridge when (!) black wire and bare brass wires are switched on the FGCI. Yes, black wire is connected to the green ground terminal and bare wire is connected to brass terminal.
If I switch the wires into correct positions: bare wire goes to green terminal and black goes to the brass terminal then the outlet pretty much doesn't work: the fridge doesn't work and the plugin tester dives open neutral (red lamp is off, middle is off, right is on).
Two questions here: could someone please explain to me what's going on here and what I am supposed to do to fix that?
And yes, if I connect the fridge to a different power outlet (not inside the garage) everything is good.
Thank you so much in advance,
Alex.
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