I have 2 baseboard heaters in my garage about 10 ft apart joined by conduit. See pic.
They started the first heater conduit/wire in from the left end, then tried to tape/hide the wires up and out of the way en route to the right end, which goes out to the conduit joining the second heater.
As you can see the wires are now dangling. (They are either #12 or #10) I know this isn't Kosher, and will get flagged one day when we sell the place.
My idea would be to disconnect the wires on the right side and get them into MC flex conduit and appropriate transition couplings .How does this sound for a start? Or what should I do?
Left Side Wiring Start
Wire Junction to Right Side, then to out to conduit and Second Heater
Something is not right there. Every heater is designed to carry wires from one to the other safely.
Take the front cover off and look where the factory wiring is run. Follow that.
There should be no need to build anything.
Yup, not kosher at all. Any way you can protect them using more conduit or branching off to the first one with Mc from the end of the conduit and then back out with MC to the next heater and in to it with the MC should be fine just so long as the wires are not free standing in the air like that.
Also, I don't know if an inspector may want the circuit to be protected via GFCI breaker as the environment looks to be damp in that area. I don't know what the codes are presently for a garage for a baseboard heater. Someone more up to date on codes can chime in here. But definitely take care of those exposed wires. Even if the inspector did not catch it it should be done for safety.
Would it be easy to raise that heater a few inches? If so, I'd add a conduit tee at the end of that conduit. Then elbow into the now-raised baseboard heater. Then run nee 1/2" conduit under the baseboard onto the next heater.
Basically keeping everything in EMT conduit.
There are of course other ways to do it. MC is possible... but IMO, it's a bit messier.
Another option might be to create a "shelf" underneath the heater to enclose the bottom and protect the wire. I would make it out of a strip of metal. Or, you could cut a strip of Hardie backer/siding into a strip of the right width and support with shelving angle brackets.
Thanks for the replies. (AFJES: It looks wet, put it's just messy in the photo.)
Pic 1 shows the existing layout for clarity. Pic 2 shows the right side of the first heater. Perhaps I can understand better if someone sends me a modified drawing on where to put things?
Ideally I'd like the least obstruction along the wall. Thanks!
Last edited by PJmax; 09-18-23 at 07:57 PM.
Reason: resized pics
Something is not right there. Every heater is designed to carry wires from one to the other safely.
Take the front cover off and look where the factory wiring is run. Follow that.
There should be no need to build anything.
Great thanks Pete. I took the end covers off and see where wire is run in the upper area. So I'm thinking I'll fish 12-2 tri wire from end to end through the existing wire hole. It seems odd though that there's no protective bushing in that hole, which is about 3/8". Does anyone have a suggestion for that?
(BTW, the other end ground wire is terminated. Which, I guess, is why they didn't connect it on this end.)
I keep getting bad ground on every receptacle in the house. Is there a way to test without using this little device...like a multimeter? I turned the breaker off on the receptacle I think that was causing the bad ground but still every outlet in the house still shows bad ground.
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I've got a situation where a 240V Contactor may be my solution, but I'm out of practice designing stuff like this so I'd like some more experienced eyes on this. Used to be my dad, who was a career electrical engineer, but he's passed and so here I am. In fact, his birthday would have been yesterday.
I just bought an EV that came with a Level-1 / Level-2 charger. It has two dongles, the L1 can plug into a normal 120V wall outlet and the L2 can plug into a 240V NEMA 14-50 outlet. (Level-1 charging on the 120V line gets either 4 or 8 miles of driving range per hour on the charger, depending on amperage settings. Level-2 / 240V charging is more like 25 miles of range per hour charging.) I rigged up a spare dryer outlet on a whip of 14-3, and I can charge on it with no difficulty. HOWEVER, it's on my actual dryer circuit, and of course my 40A breaker can't handle running my dryer and charging my EV at the same time.
I am scheduled to upgrade my breaker panel (all circuits are FULL) and run a fresh line for a permanent EV charger to be installed, but for now I'm using the plug-in EV charger on the extra branch I built off the dryer line. My cunning plan to avoid overloading the circuit is to use a 240V HVAC contactor with a 100V relay to cut off the EV charger outlet when the dryer is activated.
What I'm trying to determine is what is the simplest way to rig it so that the contactor is normally pulled in, but activating the dryer cuts off the contactor. I haven't buzzed out the coil resistance of my contactor or looked up how many milliamps I need to close the relay, I'm thinking about this at lunch at work and all my toys are at home. I'm thinking that adding a small dongle that my dryer plugs into its outlet through is the answer, and that I want a small amount of current coming from that connection to power the contactor coil (siphoning a small connection in parallel to the dryer, going from one leg to the common) - such that when the dryer is activated, the large current it draws causes a voltage drop across the line that feeds the contactor coil, thus releasing the relay and disconnecting the EV charging port. When the dryer finishes its cycle the current will return to milliamps, the voltage will rise to 110V, and the EV outlet will be automatically reconnected.
Will the resistance of the coil be enough? Do I need to put a resistor in line with it to make sure the voltage drops way below the triggering/sustaining threshold of the relay, and so that when the dryer is off the relay isn't basically a short and melts itself? Am I missing something and this is a terrible idea?
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