My wife and I recently bought this house. It has a 200 amp Federal Pacific panel...I'd like to change it to a 200 amp Square D. Can i put the Square D panel box next to the Federal Panel and move the wires thru conduit to the Square D box Leaving the Main shut off where it's at? All the circuits will be on Square D breakers.. All except the main. This project I can do myself without having to have the meter pulled. Is this possible?
Thanks, Joe.
I have to agree with the others. You really should completely remove the Fed box altogether.
It will take some time and effort and a bit of money to do so but well worth it.
Before I retired if I ever got a call and when I was at the home owners home saw they had a FedP panel I refused to do any work on the system unless they agreed to replace the panel. I would not even add a circuit to the panel. No hands on - sorry. My hands were not going to be the last ones in any FedP panel. I just turned down the jobs.
Gentlemen, Thank you for all the advice. I know Fed. Pacific is a no even though i was just going to use the main breaker and feed it into a square D breaker, Wish i knew that when I bought this place, maybe I'd get a few more bucks off the price if i mentioned the service panel but it is what it is. I'm taking all your advice. I'm gonna call a company tomorrow (Munday) and make arrangements to have it totally replaced. Again, that you for all your input. Have a wonderful day, Joe
If you had a home buyer's inspection performed prior to purchase the inspector should have caught that panel and advised you that it must be changed.
Some inspectors don't catch everything but a FedPacific panel is up there with one thing that should be dealt with prior to purchase either as a reduction in price or replacement on the seller's side of cost.
You really need to get totally rid of the Federal Pacific load center. Do NOT even use it temporarily as a main to kill the power while swapping wiring to the new Square D load center.
Federal Pacific breaker malfunctions are known to have caused an estimated 2,800 fires each year.
Zinsco brand load centers and circuit breakers are no better than the FPE.
I'd recommend going with the 'QO' Square D load center and circuit breakers. The Square D Homeline circuit breakers have the same thermal-magnetic guts as the 'QO' circuit breaker but the QO circuit breakers have the 'visi-trip' red window that makes it easy to identify when a breaker has tripped.
I feel that Square D QO is overpriced for just a little red window. I would recommend Siemens or Square D Homeline.
There is really no way to feed a panel off the existing FPE panel as you would need to feed the new panel off an FPE circuit breaker so you are back to square one.
I've got a situation where a 240V Contactor may be my solution, but I'm out of practice designing stuff like this so I'd like some more experienced eyes on this. Used to be my dad, who was a career electrical engineer, but he's passed and so here I am. In fact, his birthday would have been yesterday.
I just bought an EV that came with a Level-1 / Level-2 charger. It has two dongles, the L1 can plug into a normal 120V wall outlet and the L2 can plug into a 240V NEMA 14-50 outlet. (Level-1 charging on the 120V line gets either 4 or 8 miles of driving range per hour on the charger, depending on amperage settings. Level-2 / 240V charging is more like 25 miles of range per hour charging.) I rigged up a spare dryer outlet on a whip of 14-3, and I can charge on it with no difficulty. HOWEVER, it's on my actual dryer circuit, and of course my 40A breaker can't handle running my dryer and charging my EV at the same time.
I am scheduled to upgrade my breaker panel (all circuits are FULL) and run a fresh line for a permanent EV charger to be installed, but for now I'm using the plug-in EV charger on the extra branch I built off the dryer line. My cunning plan to avoid overloading the circuit is to use a 240V HVAC contactor with a 100V relay to cut off the EV charger outlet when the dryer is activated.
What I'm trying to determine is what is the simplest way to rig it so that the contactor is normally pulled in, but activating the dryer cuts off the contactor. I haven't buzzed out the coil resistance of my contactor or looked up how many milliamps I need to close the relay, I'm thinking about this at lunch at work and all my toys are at home. I'm thinking that adding a small dongle that my dryer plugs into its outlet through is the answer, and that I want a small amount of current coming from that connection to power the contactor coil (siphoning a small connection in parallel to the dryer, going from one leg to the common) - such that when the dryer is activated, the large current it draws causes a voltage drop across the line that feeds the contactor coil, thus releasing the relay and disconnecting the EV charging port. When the dryer finishes its cycle the current will return to milliamps, the voltage will rise to 110V, and the EV outlet will be automatically reconnected.
Will the resistance of the coil be enough? Do I need to put a resistor in line with it to make sure the voltage drops way below the triggering/sustaining threshold of the relay, and so that when the dryer is off the relay isn't basically a short and melts itself? Am I missing something and this is a terrible idea?
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Hello all,
I am quite new at this DIY electrical stuff so feel free to be as thorough to my mistakes here.
Currently, we are changing from a gas range to an electric oven. So we decided to add an outlet for the 240v 50A max.
I used an 8/3 Romex for this (we called an electrician and they gave us 10/3 mistakenly. Ran it along the walls with supports and connected it to a 240v/50A 4-prong outlet.
I connected it to the circuit breaker as well after turning everything off. The neutral and ground wires are on the bars, they are not separated since this is the main circuit breaker of my house.
Then once powered on we get nothing. I tested the voltage to find 0V through the hot wire connection and the ground. I'm not sure if I just wired something wrong.
Thank you all in advance for the advice given.
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x935/pro_saa0rsyl_a43cfca26ca757b14a1b71179407a6b1f4c8af51.jpeg[/img]
[i]wire connections to the outlet[/i]
[img]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x935/pro_ah7kp3kr_cd3c34ec0fdc6a4b59c93d89ae6b65e874079128.jpeg[/img]
[i]wire connections to the outlet.[/i]
[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x935/pro_tjlepvvs_671e2e41c6e9c75fd69121584d19b277da78a4a5.jpeg[/img]
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x935/pro_3jerrszd_86ecdfc9f84a1b2ff7d3344d3b6cf0c0a736ee6d.jpeg[/img]
[i]current outlet I've installed[/i]
[img]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x935/pro_tgdv6ixm_245e183c54f0c6cf424900f98cf932ba21fd454b.jpeg[/img]
[i]Current circuit breaker with markers on the new double pole and romex wire feeding int othe breakre box.[/i]
[img]https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x935/pro_quenoyvj_b7f98057424c03baa1fd3c9551bfe0b6933c963e.jpeg[/img]
[i]behind the circuit breaker[/i]
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