Receiver wiring: 'what's wrong with this picture?'

Trying to wire a wireless receiver (paired, working) for a thermostat to a towel rail. The current wiring followed a separate wiring diagram that's different to the one on the unit in the pic (that I don't understand). I think 4 means "switch" but . It all goes well on the input stage, switches system on, but if it was a cold October I'd be freezing Zero Calor. Any help. Many Thanks, a total non sparks.

 

Need info on the wireless receiver and what it is supposed to do. Also, what voltage does the heater in the towel rack require?

 

Thanks for the reply, all this is, is an update for an old handset that went kaput. Everything is good voltage wise, it works fine with the old receiver manually. The wireless transmitter is just a thermostat, the wired receiver just a switch. Input is from the power supply that used to run an electric blow heater, been using it for *years* with previous handset. I'm not sure of the voltage anymore, its always ran off of a standard 6mm cable, it really is just a case of me not knowing the correct position of N & L going out. Input running exactly as it should, thermo demands heat via RF, system flicks on. The towel rack however, does not get any juice. Its definitely working in all but the output, which has always been correct and still works if rewired to old setup, I'm using the same wires. Cheers!

 

Does the back of the old unit have the diagram on the back? Are they the same? Will the new one work in manual?
Maybe the problem is in the towel rack not the thermostat.

 

might read the instructions on it looks like it has a few wiring diagrams but 5 is not used in most of them.
Instructions-DRF4.pdf (thermsaver.co.uk)

 

Thanks badeyeben, Alan73. If the old one was the same, I'd have toasty towels by now as I installed that with ease! I can't read those instructions Alan, as mine is a RV-0356. I know that from the instructions They are pretty detailed, but lack a L N output arrow, just like the back of the unit does! Here's a wiring diagram, it can be used for some pretty complex systems it appears....which mine is not. I thought Page 2 was my answer, but I have nothing. Please note, this towel rail works. If I wire it back up to the old one I was using manually, its all good.

 

the picture shows model rv-0356 where the instructions show 2 models and include instructions for model rv-0356h which has a ground on pin 5 since you do not have the 0356h suspect your not grounding the heater circuit so its not working model 0356 is just a normally closed and normally open contactor.

 

Right, so page 1. Which would make it 1N 2L 3L 4N ? I don't actually think I've done that yet...Watch This Space!

PS By normally closed normally open = you basically mean switch right?
Cheers!

 

Nope! That doesn't work either! Two wires, one brown and one blue! Any suggestions?!?

 

do you have a meter or any way of checking power I would assume 1 is neutral and 2 is line and 4 is line based on the wire colors but really no way of knowing for sure without a meter but if its correct that just leaves 3 and 5 I would think that would go to the heater element but really no way of knowing but I dont think you should have anything hooked to 5 you may be able to look at your mechanical switch that works with the heater and see how it works what its switching and just duplicate that between 3 and 4. the way it is now when the contactor is off its switching 4 and 5 together and when the contactor is on its switching 3 and 4 together but since you dont have model 0356h the wires you have at 5 basicly are not going anywhere.

 

Oh yeah I have a multimeter, LOL didn't think of that...always attached it to motoring. I think "load" might be 3 as it happens. Which means live goes there if I can remember. I do wiring once in a blue moon... The switch that works is not a mechanical one, its the same premise as the receiver but is 15 years of tech ago (of course it is much more user friendly!) The transmitter went (so I use manual override)...unfortunately the new one has to pair with the new receiver. One thing, Ive had NLNL and NLLN. Scratching my head as to the lack of earth anchor... That's why (along with the drawings with the little earth symbol) I put them in there. Going nowhere, as earth generally does. Annyway let me try that meter Thanks again

 

That's the old one BTW! Nice and easy! Like The Olden Days of wireless thermostats!

 

I labeled your old switch with the new numbers.
1 - neutral in
2 - line in
3 - neutral out
4 - line out

 

Thank you. the bad news is thats the way I have it wired in my pic of the new one...

 

....barring on mine the Load Earth and Supply Earth are swizzled together in 5 in true 80's style.

 

so the smaller brown and blue wires went to the outside terminals on the old unit and the larger brown and green went to the middle terminals were did you have the ground at on the old one?
if the above is correct your old unit did supply N and L to the load output your new one does not the only thing pin 1 and 2 is suppling power to is the contactor coil per example look at the diagram on combi a for boiler all the black lines represent a wire but where you see a dot intersection is actually where the wires are connected externally where your old unit these connections were internal to the circuit board. model 0356H does have a voltage output but 0356 is volt free.

 

You're right. It is volt free. That means I've got the wrong unit doesn't it.
Re: The old one, Power came in 2N 1L and went out 3N 4L. Earth sits on the side separate.

I checked the connectors with the switch clicked on, asking for heat. Zero power to any terminal, the only one lighting up is 2.

 

it would be easier to wire up with the h model but you may still be able to get that one to work but you would need to move the grounds out of 5 and just leave them connected to the side you cannot leave them on pin 5 as it would be a short to ground could wire nut them together or something, twist your blue and green wires together and put them at pin 1, make a short jumper of insulated wire and install it with the brown wire at 2 the other end of the jumper to pin 4, and hook the small brown wire to pin 3, this is basically making all the external connections needed that it should work.

 

Thanks for that - If I were you I'd do that, but being me, I've asked them for a different model. I'd end up looking like Wile E Coyote after an accident with some ACME TNT. I asked for the H but I think they're sending the 0357.

Thank you.

PS I take it Blue/Green is Neutral in the US?

 

no white is neutral , line is black and ground is green or just bare copper over here.

 

In the first picture you have the green ground wires on the switch output.
That means L was switched directly to ground.
That unit is probably blasted. The relay would have burned open.

There should not be any green/ground wires on a switch like that.

 

Thanks for the reply - My original setup, the one that common sense said, was just N L N L (3124 as per your diagram)> No joy at all, never gave any power out of it. I think I'm sending the whole lot back... I'm tempted to do the jumper method but something's telling me to get the piece I need, a nice simple unit for a simple setup. And a simple installer!


PS: Why does Terminal 5 have an Earth symbol, and even a green wire in your diagram!?

 

I would likely try the jumper method first if you want to leave the grounds on 5 then you could just remove the blue wire and insert in pin 1 with the neutral and take a short jumper and insert one end in pin 2 and the other end in pin 3 this will put line voltage at pin 3 instead of 4 so it will not be switching it to ground at pin 5 which will allow you to leave the grounds there the other heater wire will go to pin 4 where it is already according to the first post, but there is a chance it may not work that way, and you will have to put line on 4 and remove the grounds from pin 5.
you have already installed it so not really sure what your concern I assume you shut off power when you hooked it up? just shut off the power or breaker to the unit make the changes turn back on the power really not much different than you already have done other than a jumper and twisting neutrals together but as long as the power is off it is safe to work on.

 

Thanks, to be fair its more of a "why don't I just get a simple unit without jumpers" issue than a "I'm going to be exploded" issue. Every day's a winding road, so I may try it , but I'm leaning towards pack, send, replace... I did just order a dirt cheap wired thermostat today on ebay, so I may just ask you what the hell those three terminals are for if I don't work it out COM WOT COM lol