making 1/2 outlet work off switch


  #1  
Old 02-22-02, 08:51 PM
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Question making 1/2 outlet work off switch

have a dedicated outlet for my dishwasher, and would like to install a disposal. Is it possible to make the top half of the outlet work off of a switch and leave the bottom half for the dishwasher? I did read where the plates between the connectors on the outlet can be removed and a switch used to operate only that part. This information was in relation to a light to be used with it. Would it be any different for a disposal? Also, any helpful recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Kay Byrd
 
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Old 02-23-02, 09:14 AM
G
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what your asking is possible providing the two units don't exceed the amp draw for the circuit.

Switched outlet Bottom receptacle
1 One black, white and bare coming from switch
2 For ease of explanation I will call the cable with just the black white and ground from the switch number 1
The cable feeding the recepatcle number 2

3. Cut the tab separating the two brass screws on the receptacle

4 Connect the white from #2 to the silver screws on the receptacle


5 Put some colour tape on the white to cable one (do this at both ends switch and Receptacle)

7 Connect the black from #2 to the white (now colored) of number 1 add a pigtail wire for connection to the bottom brass screw of the receptacle.

8 Connect the black from number 1 to the top screw of the receptacle.
Now the top is switched and the bottom has constant power

Connect the bare copper wires together and to the box if metal and the receptacle ground screw.

Hope this is of help let me know how it turns out
 
  #3  
Old 02-23-02, 01:19 PM
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more on outlet

Am not sure that I should do this for the disposal, but would like more input. On the fuse, there is the dishwasher, my oven (when the fuse is pulled nothing works on the stove but the burners and oven light, not the oven itself-another fuse also handles the oven as well), and the refrigerator. Is this going to be too much of an amp draw, and how would I find the amp draw listing for my dishwasher, refrigerator, and stove? I found the listing on the disposal I would like to install.

My concern is that the house has been added on to twice and appears that the wiring has been altered simply to accomodate those additions. We just bought this house, and I do not want to burn it down! In all honesty, should I call an electrician or is this something that I can be walked through with help?

Kay Byrd
 
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Old 02-23-02, 02:00 PM
G
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First off the stove is most likely 220v and SHOULD NOT be on with any 120v appliances, this is very dangerous and should be looked into right away.
The nameplates on your other appliances should have the amps they draw marked on them.

My recommendation is call an electrician and have him start sorting it out you may need to upgrade your service and that I contend is not the project for the inexperienced to try.

By the sound of it your system is very messed up and I would not add another thing to that circuit until it is fixed. The refridgerator can be on an appliance circuit but generally it is recommended to have it on a dedicated 15 amp circuit as cited in the NEC. The reason you have not been blowing fuses is if you look at what is in the fuse box it is most likely a 30 or 40 amp fuse, #12 wire which is what is most likely running your fridge and other appliances is only good up to 20 amps as the heat generated beyond that is too much for it to handle.
 
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Old 02-23-02, 02:07 PM
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thanks

some people call me paranoid, I prefer the term *cautious*. I love my home, just purchased it, and wouldn't want to lose it because of adding anything to it. I wouldn't have asked my husband to buy it for me if I didn't love it.

i will definitely call an electrician and have him evaluate my wiring before doing anything else, including wiring new outlets, etc. I realize that I may be looking at a rather large expense, but will be worth it as opposed to having to look for a new place to live because I inadvertently destroyed the one I had.

Thanks again, and will update later down the line when I know what is in store for us. Thank you so much for help.

***Update: believe it or not, i am not a blonde LOL. The fuse was blown to the stove when i was checking the other fuse. There is only the refrigerator, 2 outlets (unused at moment) and the dishwasher on the fuse! Yeah. I reduced the fuse in the box to a 15a to test the load further since I should only have 13.6a pulling on it right now. Thanks again!
 

Last edited by kaybyrd; 02-23-02 at 02:44 PM.
  #6  
Old 02-23-02, 03:29 PM
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If you have the financial resources and/or technical skill to add more circuits, that would certainly be the preferred solution.

However, if you would like to try adding the garbage disposal to this circuit, you can try it. I would not buy a disposal over 1/2 horsepower, and I would try not to run the dishwasher and disposal at the same time. But I doubt that there is a safety issue with this trial (the disposal doesn't usually run more than a minute at a time).

One funky (but legal and safe, I think) way to do this would be to install a 3-way switch and have it power either the top half or the bottom half of the receptacle, but not both. This would guarantee that the disposal and dishwasher never run at the same time. Although you might accidentally turn off the power to your dishwasher while it is running -- I don't think this would be that big of a deal. Has anybody ever done something like this???
 
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Old 02-23-02, 04:45 PM
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3 way?

How do you install a 3way switch. New to me, guess it's time to drag out the old home improvement book that confuses me to no end. At least I may have some idea of what to ask of you guys next!

Thanks!
 
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Old 02-23-02, 06:06 PM
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The three way switch idea is indeed a good approach for
part of the problem but personally I'm more concerened with the fact half the stove is connected to this circuit that is the thing
that really needs attention.
 
  #9  
Old 02-23-02, 06:40 PM
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stove

I discovered the stove is NOT actually on the same fuse. It was blown (the stove fuse) when I was checking what was on the other fuse. I only have the dishwasher, refrigerator and 2 other outlets (not used) on that one fuse.

I installed a 15a fuse since I should only be pulling 13.6a according to the appliances that are on the fuse. I am hoping that if it blows, then that will let me know there is something else on the line that I'm unaware of, or one of the appliances have a problem.

I will still call an electrician since I also discovered 18+ outlets on one fuse, encompassing 4 rooms, 1 being the family room with the entertainment center.
 
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Old 02-23-02, 06:56 PM
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If there is no stove involved then by all means look into the answer from John Nelson it is a very good approach to your problem with a minimum of expense. I usually like to see no more then 10 general purpose outlets on a circuit but 18 is still within the code. If the house has electrical problems having an electrician take a look and make recommendations is a very good idea you don't have to do them all and you don't have to pay him to do what you can do, but it does help one sleep better at night if they know what their up against.
 
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Old 02-23-02, 07:26 PM
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how do i start?

Okay, after researching online, and reading my book I don't understand how to install the 3 way switch to eliminate using both appliances at the same time. I'm either really tired, or not very good at this, but if I run a 3 way, then the outlet can be hot only under certain positions of the switches. If I install one 3way, then??????? Treat one 1/2 of the plug as one switch, the other 1/2 as the 2nd switch and the actual switch as the fixture according to wiring diagrams?

Guys I must be really tired, overthinking this, or something. How in heaven's name do I wire this thing to a single switch and not have the ability to run both at the same time.

Okay, thanks again. Will be eagerly awaiting your replies, and working on the refrigerator that has decided to leak water all in my floor again. I must save the hardwood floors!

eternally grateful for your patience,
Kay Byrd
 
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Old 02-23-02, 08:58 PM
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Ok lets see if I can come up with something you'll understand
the power as it stands goes into the receptacle box so so far so good.
1) Take and break the tab on the brass side of the receptacle that travels between the two Brass screws.

2) The white neutral on the incoming power stays on the silver screw of the receptacle.

3) Now you will require a length of 12/3 (Black, Red, White) to run to the three way switch.

4) Permanently remark the white (or Grey) wire of the new 12/3 to reidentify it. I use heat shrink some use paint (very messy) some punch a hole through a permanent marker and slide a length of the wire through.
Make sure the color you use is not white grey or green.

5) Now wirenut the black that comes from you panel to the new colored white wire of the 12/3 cable, this wire then is connected to the common screw on the 3way switch.

6) connect the black and Red from the 12/3 cable to the two traveller screws on the 3way switch, it does not really matter which goes to which screw.

7) Now back at you receptacle connect the Black wire to the top brass screw and the Red wire to the bottom screw.

8) connect all your grounds securely and your set to go

When the three way is turn one way one side of the receptacle is on when it is turn to the other position the other side of the receptacle is on. At this point it is physically impossible to have both on at the same time.

Hope this helps you out let us know how it turns out
 
  #13  
Old 04-05-03, 06:07 PM
candido
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Unhappy Mr.

Originally posted by gard
what your asking is possible providing the two units don't exceed the amp draw for the circuit.

Switched outlet Bottom receptacle
1 One black, white and bare coming from switch
2 For ease of explanation I will call the cable with just the black white and ground from the switch number 1
The cable feeding the recepatcle number 2

3. Cut the tab separating the two brass screws on the receptacle

4 Connect the white from #2 to the silver screws on the receptacle


5 Put some colour tape on the white to cable one (do this at both ends switch and Receptacle)

7 Connect the black from #2 to the white (now colored) of number 1 add a pigtail wire for connection to the bottom brass screw of the receptacle.

8 Connect the black from number 1 to the top screw of the receptacle.
Now the top is switched and the bottom has constant power

Connect the bare copper wires together and to the box if metal and the receptacle ground screw.

Hope this is of help let me know how it turns out
 
  #14  
Old 04-05-03, 06:19 PM
candido
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clarify for me the gabage disposal wiring.

Mr. Gard,
Please modarate in laymans language your discription about wiring a garbage disposal you mention in this section. Iam not totally oblivious to wiring, but this explanation has got me baffled.
I just want to make sure I totally understand before I begin.
Thanks for your Expertise and advice.
candido.
 
  #15  
Old 04-07-03, 11:32 AM
G
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The idea in this post was to have the receptacle controlling two different items a dishwasher on the top portion of the outlet and a disposal on the bottom both to be controlled by a switch.

If the power enters at the receptacle then you have a 12/3 wire going to the switch.

Using red and black as the travellers and the white as the common (check the switch for which one is the common the other two screws will be the traveller. Mark the white at both ends so it is identified as a current carring conductor.

Connect the white of the incoming power to the silver screws of the receptacle break the tab between the two brass screws .

Connect the Black incoming power to the white wire going to the switch you remarked. connect the red and black wires coming from the switch each to one of the brass screws on the receptacle.

In this way the power will only be delivered to one half the receptacle at a time.

I hope this explains what you were looking for.
 
 

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