undo 3way switch

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  #1  
Old 06-11-00, 05:43 AM
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My carport light is controlled by a 3way switch. One inside and one in the carport. I want to convert the outside switch to a receptacle and control the carport light with the inside switch. What do I have to do?
 
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  #2  
Old 06-11-00, 02:28 PM
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Hi Keithr,

This is possible to do in almost every instance. It does not matter what wiring scheme is used, wither the power is in either switch, or even at the light box. Whether the light has the travelers running through it or directly between switches.
Because each of these demands a different wiring scheme I could confuse you with each.
So, at this point it is imperative that you know where the power source is, then how the travelers are routed and where the wires for the light are if travelers are direct.(these should be in your inside box, as i assume your switch box outside now is a dead end 3/w). It is even possible to have the hot and switch leg in the same box.(Usually it is in the other box).
Either get back to us here with this information or email me and I'll give you the wiring diagram. In all cases you will have an extra wire that will be capped off.
 
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Old 06-13-00, 03:21 AM
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DavidB,
Thanks for the reply. Each box has 3 wires,
black, red, white. I'm 99% sure that the power is inside (black) and the traveler is red. Ive got the outside box (receptacle) working but when the inside box is in the on position the outside box has no power. When the inside is off the outside is hot and has a load, the carport light glows dim. Obviously, Ive need some advice.
 
  #4  
Old 06-13-00, 05:14 AM
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Keith, you will probably need to pull a wire between your inside switch and the light fixture to use as the switch leg. Replace the 3 way switch with a 2 way switch, attach the new wire to one side of the switch, and you power to the other side. Now the light should work fine. To get the outlet to work, tie the existing red wire to the power in the inside switch and use that as your power in the outside outlet. There should be no connection to the red wire in the light, if one exists there, and there should be no connection to the black wire in the outlet. <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by keithr:
DavidB,
Thanks for the reply. Each box has 3 wires,
black, red, white. I'm 99% sure that the power is inside (black) and the traveler is red. Ive got the outside box (receptacle) working but when the inside box is in the on position the outside box has no power. When the inside is off the outside is hot and has a load, the carport light glows dim. Obviously, Ive need some advice.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

 
  #5  
Old 06-13-00, 03:46 PM
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hello keithr,
if im reading this correctly, both switch boxes have 3 wires in them and no others.
this means power is in the light, and the 2 3 wires run to the light as well. since both sets of 3 wires run to the light this is an easy fix. remove the light locate the hot wire,connect black of 3 wire going to car port and white of 3 wire going to switch to the hot wire. connect all bares together as well as to green or bare of light if present. connect the white of 3 wire going to carport to the white of power as well as white of light. connect black of 3 wire going to switch in house to light. cap off the red going to carport as well as switch in house. in the carport box cap off the red,connect the black to the gold screw, white to the silver screw, bare to the green screw of recep (i recomend a gfci outlet.in the switch cap off the red,connect the white to the switch and black to the switch (replace the 3way with a single pole switch), and bare to the green screw if present. put on cover plates and injoy.
 
  #6  
Old 06-13-00, 04:46 PM
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Keith,

Sprky's explanation is good but for one correction. If you have it the way he explained, don't change it, it is not necessarily unsafe, because we do wiring dead-ends using a white, however, in your case you have an option of using a color and one should if it is availabe.
The wires from the light box to your inside switch could be black hot down to the switch and then red back to the light as the switch leg with the white old neutral capped off.
Just a note for the future and for others.
 
  #7  
Old 06-13-00, 06:59 PM
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Keith, it appears as though you have "Sprky", "David B." and I where the hair is real short -- If any of us could actually SEE what you have, we could solve it in a heartbeat. Tell us EXACTLY what wires you have in each of the 2 switch boxes and in the lite box, and how they are connected. There are different ways to wire 3-way switches, and none is better than any other, as long it's code approved, the person doing the wiring understands what he is doing, and it works. The problem comes in when you try to change it. You have to be able to look at it and see exactly which method was used, then go from there.

The 2 msot common are where the power is brought into one switch, a 14/3 or 12/3 is run to the other switch, and the switch leg is then taken to the lite. The neutral (white) is simply run through the switch boxes without any connection to the switches involved. The other way is where the power is brought into the ceiling box, run to one switch, then the other, tehn back to the ceiling box as a switched leg. The neutral (white) never goes to the switches, but the white wires in the switch boxes becomes a xecond traveler.
 
  #8  
Old 06-14-00, 09:42 AM
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Didnt mean to cause a controversy. I do have an excellent means of insuring that you all have all the information needed to make the proper suggestion on rewiring the 3 way switch. I recently purchased a digital camera, if you are willing to contact me by email I will forward to you a picture of each switch box, the light box and the junction box where all this stuff meets. Email your address to "[email protected]". Ill get the pictures to you this evening.
Keith
 
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