Electrical hook up to my shed

Old 07-19-02, 06:49 AM
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Good morning, well it's sounds like to me that I will be at my limit using the 10/3, 20a with zero room to grow. I can see using a TV or buying a small 2 wheel grinder. I do have a 24" drill press and a sears router (that's never been used). So, lets talk about the next highest level just in case. I stated that I wanted the cheapest etc. but I sure do not want to find out I have installed to small of a wire, which would not be the cheapest. To be honest, some local's have told me just hook up 12/2 and lay the line (or put it in a cheap water line) along the fence line at the edge of the woods. (lets dont talk about these people, that's one reason I asked the question on this forum).
Anyway, I think the next higher level is to go with the 8/3 (I have'nt compared the cost with the 10/3 yet) wire. Should I install a 30a breaker in the house to support this or stay with a 20a? The single arm, 2 pole fuse box in the shed, 20a or 30a?
Can't thank you enough for your patience!!!!
Old 07-19-02, 09:57 AM
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The reason they recomended you put 20 a breakers at the source was that you didnt need a fuse box or panel at the destination and to protect the branch circuit wiring. Also at that distance 20 a was all you could expect to get without getting significant voltage drop. If you use those tools one at a time the 10 would work fine. Put your lights and tv and minor stuff on one leg and the tools on the other. If it was mine and there was any question I would either do that or quit messing around and get no.2 alum, direct burial and put a panel fed by a 50 or 60 at the house. Goodrich has good drawings on his detatched garage site for that. Its also as cheap of wire as the 10 is and way cheaper than 8. You could buy a 1000 foot roll for 225$ or so and run 4 wire and you never have power worries again there. It be a done deal.
Old 07-19-02, 01:18 PM
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crawdadcreek, I suspect what sberry said just about trhough your a loop. Thought you could use some explaination why he suggested a 100 amp rated feeder as you next logical step.

Your 10/3 UF cable is normally the largest you can go with the comparible cost factors. The price of the next larger feeder makes a major jump in cost compared to 10/3.

When you go bigger than a 10 UF then your move from UF cable to either USE cable or URD cable. The larger URD cable can be compared to cost around the same as that smaller USE cable but either one will jump quite a bit in cost.

Guess we all knew this cost factor and was hovering around the 10 awg copper knowing the major increase of cost to go the next step up in feeder size. That is one decision you will have to make for yourself by comparing the cost of 40 amp rated USE cable and 100 amp rated URD cable. The major difference is types of metal and mass production of the URD compared to selective production of hte USE cables considering quantity pricing. KInd of like only a small difference between a 50 amp rated panel and a 100 amp rated panel. So many 100 amp rated panels have been sold that it is hard to find a 50 amp rated panel on the market today because few use them due to the small difference of cost.

You are just going to have to compare the costs involved with the different sizes of feeders and panel combinations then make you own decision as to which way you want to go.

Let us know what you find.


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