Table saw "Squeel" (Fix?)

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Old 01-20-03, 02:46 PM
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Table saw "Squeel" (Fix?)

My Unisaw has developed a squeel on the blade raise/lower machanisim. The squeel sound is when I LOWER the blade.

I opened it up yesterday and tried spraying some graphite on the main shaft, worm gear and lift gear. That particular main crank shaft goes into a small casting with oilite bearings on the end and connects to the raise/lower crank handle. The squeel seems to be coming from that area.

Does anyone know how I might get the squeel eliminated WITHOUT having to dis-assemble the entire crank assembly?
 
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Old 01-20-03, 03:28 PM
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Quite the coincidence!

wisconsincraft:

I just this afternoon tracked down the parts list for my 10" Rockwell/Delta table saw to find the part number for the arbor.

If you post the model and serial number I may have a parts list for it.
 
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Old 01-20-03, 06:14 PM
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I have found that the folks at Delta are quite helpful with service questions. You might give them a call.
 
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Old 01-21-03, 06:37 PM
woodpecker
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maybe a new blade. when i hear that sound its either a dull blade or im feeding the saw improperly
 
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Old 01-21-03, 09:48 PM
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Wait a minute there woodpecker. wisconsincraft's complaint was that this squeal occured when he lowered the blade. Now, I realize, I have only run a couple hundred MBF board feet through tablesaws, so I may be wrong here, but more than 1/2 of the time when I'm lowering the blade, the saw isn't even RUNNING!! What would the blade have to do with that??

The way I read this post, the problem (the squeal) occurs when the blade is being lowered, and probably EVERY TIME it is being lowered. He's talking about the shaft, worm drive, lift gear and a sealed bearing as areas he has checked so far.

wisconsincraft, the squeal is due to sawdust buildup in some or all of the parts of the lowering mechanisms (a no-brainer there!!) Curing that is pretty straight forward, and you are on the right track graphite (something that won't allow sawduct to stick to it like an oil would.) But if it is that oilite bearing that the noise is coming from, probably the only cure is to replace it. The alternative would be to live with it. (I didn't say an ACCEPTABLE alternative -- just an alternative.)
 
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Old 01-22-03, 01:40 AM
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Lefty,

Thanks for understanding the problem. I thought I had described it pretty plainly.

As you surmized, the squeal is coming EVERY TIME I lower the blade, if the saw is running or not.

What I failed to also mention in my original post is.....
When the "raise and lower" mechanisim reaches the END of the travel (either fully raised or fully lowered), it "sticks" so hard, I have to bump the crank handle to get it to move again.
I believe there is definitely something wrong with that issue.

The squeal and sticking problem has only started to happen within the past few weeks. I don't use the saw as often as I used to be it is happening and that is toooooooooo many times for me. I don't want to live with it.

Greg..... I will try contacting Delta to see if the can guide me through the fix.

Thanks to all who have replied.

Dave
 
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Old 01-22-03, 09:09 AM
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wisconsincraft:

If the saw is old you may want to totally dismantle it and give it a complete going over.

I own a 20 year old 10" Rockwell/Delta that I will make a first time attempt at making oak kitchen cabinet doors with.

This saw has been one of the best tools I own, and after suffering years of abuse and neglect will only need $100.00 worth of parts to make it just like new.

Here are two sites with instructions on fine tuning a table saw.

http://www.wwforum.com/faqs_articles/rockwell.html

http://www.newwoodworker.com/dilindjiguse.html

If you were ambitious you could strip your saw for a major tune-up and cure that squeal as a bonus.

Like I said, post the model and s/n of your saw, I may have some info on it.
 
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Old 01-22-03, 09:27 AM
brickeyee
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"When the "raise and lower" mechanisim reaches the END of the travel (either fully raised or fully lowered), it "sticks" so hard, I have to bump the crank handle to get it to move again.
I believe there is definitely something wrong with that issue."

Nothing wrong, they all do it. All the slack is taken out of the worm gear/quadrent mechanism when it hits the stop and the teeth bind on each other.
 
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