Craftsman 10" Miter Saw - Sparks!

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Old 08-21-03, 09:10 AM
R
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Craftsman 10" Miter Saw - Sparks!

I don't know whether this is within the scope of this forum, but I have an approx. 15 year old Craftsman 10" miter saw. For some time, years actually, the electric blade brake has only functioned about half the time. Well, this past weekend, the saw shot sparks from the motor (brush end) and kicked the circuit breaker when I released the trigger. I stopped using it and reset the breaker, but (luckily?) my son didn't know it was malfunctioning and used it again. It worked!

It was Sunday, we were doing an important job, we only had a half-dozen more cuts to make, and we were 50 miles from HD or Lowes. Bottom line, we got finished with two more episodes of kicked breaker.

My theory is that the problem is the switch, which I believe uses normally closed contacts to switch the windings to brake the blade when the trigger is released. I think it probably is occassionally keeping the normally open side shorted when the trigger is released. If anyone has experience with this problem, I would like to hear from you. I don't want to spend 50+ dollars on a switch to find out it may not completely fix the problem.

Thanks,
Randy
 
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Old 08-21-03, 03:08 PM
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Randy:

The problem could be caused by bad brushes.
You would have to take the saw apart if you wanted to check this yourself.
 
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Old 08-21-03, 10:26 PM
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I agree that brushes can cause sparking, but if it is sparking when the trigger is released, I would also be inclined to blame the blade brake switch. It could well be that the contacts are sticking and allowing a short when the cycle is changed for blade braking. I would pull the motor apart and check the brushes, disassemble the switch and check/clean it, maybe sand the contacts, grease the bushings, sand the commutator and clean between the copper pickups with a razor blade, etc...

Let us know what you find!
 
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Old 08-22-03, 04:03 AM
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Gentlemen, thanks for the reply!

The arching does only occur when the trigger is released, and only sometimes at that. Coupled with the fact that the blade brake has only worked intermittently for years adds fuel to the switch theory. I kinda think the switch is the problem, but I am also fairly certain that the brushes took a beating when this arching occurred. Enough current went through to kick a 20 amp breaker violently. I was just hesitant to spend money on a new switch and brushes just to find out that something else was wrong as well. It had never occurred to me to disassemble the switch and examine it. That's an idea worth looking at. It will be a week or so before I can do this since I'm going out of town after work today, but I will definitely let you know what I find.


Anyway, this forum is great. There is nothing better than a little moral support and technical advice when you are about to spend some bucks on a bet.

Thanks again!
 
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Old 08-22-03, 07:52 AM
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Most Craftsman saws like this have a model # starting with 113, which would indicate an Emerson Electric made product.

You can go on their website, find a dealer who deals in their product and buy the parts directly for less money than Sears.

You can get the part #s of what you need by going to www.sears.com and then "parts" on the left. Enter your complete model # and it will show you a parts breakdown and illustration.
 
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Old 08-22-03, 08:30 AM
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Joe_F,

Thanks! I wouldn't have thought of buying the part from anyone but Sears. The model number does begin with 113 and I have gotten the part number from the owners manual and from the Sears web site. They agree. So, now I will try to look around for a better price.

Thanks,
 
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Old 08-22-03, 08:58 AM
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Lol. Sure. Sears doesn't make anything, everything is made for them by someone (generally a major company).

The trick is to know the source codes (that's the first three digits of the model # before the decimal point). That tells you who makes it for them.

I almost NEVER buy any parts from Sears (unless they are the cheapest source) for anything of theirs I own (and I own a ton of their stuff).
 
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Old 08-24-03, 03:56 PM
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Sears as a "parts" source

I keep seeing ads for all the wonderful info you can get from the Sears web site. Unless I am looking for parts for a Sears product I never have any luck finding what I want. ie, I just tried finding the parts list for my Toro lawnmower and plugged in the Toro model number. and I get the message that their data base doesn't contain that number. Has anyone else had this problem?
Their site says they have over 90,000 diagrams. All Sears?
 
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Old 08-24-03, 09:23 PM
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To my knowledge, Sears does not support Toro. Toro makes it hard for anyone to support them other than dealers. The Sears website is a very useful tool, but does not contain diagrams for everything. 90,000 diagrams would not scratch the surface if they had one for everything, lol.
 
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Old 08-26-03, 10:27 AM
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Arrow

What you'll mostly find at the Sears website is...

1) Sears products (of course..lol), including Craftsman and their other brands. If it came with a parts list originally, it's there. If the vendor provided it, it's there for the most part.....a few exceptions I've seen.

2) Sears captive vendors. For instance, if you plug in my Whirlpool LSR7233EQ0 washing machine into their site it will come up.

Why? Because WLP supplies most of the Sears appliances and chances are the parts are the EXACT same between the Sears models and the WLP models.

Due to that fact, Sears parts stores/centers will likely stock those parts. So, that is why some come up and some don't.

If you called Sears and asked about your Toro, I'd bet they'd get you the information from one of their local contacts .
 
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Old 09-09-03, 04:27 AM
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Update!

I bought the switch through Sears. What a rip-off...$43.00 with tax, S&H. I looked at a variety of sources on the WEB and, although similar switches were available at much cheaper prices, none seemed to have the DPDT configuration that my saw needed. They looked identical except they seemed to have only four connections instead of six.

Now, the saw works...sort of. The motor runs when it should and there are no sparks, but the blade brake doesn't work at all now. I think that when the switch was closing both circuits simultaneously, the 115VAC fried the brake load. Hey, no big deal, I can get by without the brake. It hadn't worked reliably for years anyway.

Thanks for your help.
 
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Old 09-09-03, 07:58 AM
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Yea, I told ya . They get you on S&H and the prices are list or better! .

I have better luck sourcing around them and finding the parts through the OEM that supplies it to them. Many times I don't tell them it's a Sears though, because their answer will be "Well, you'll have to go back to Sears for that!!!"

 
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