Looking for radial arm saw "table" dimensions


  #41  
Old 01-31-11, 08:19 PM
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Craftsman RAS

Hi All,

I just joined DIY. I was wondering if *anyone would know where to find a manual*?
Thank you,
Bob

Moderator note:
Welcome to our forums Bob.

Your post has been edited* because soliciting from members and posting your email address in the forums is not allowed.
Hopefully someone can direct you to a suitable source for a manual.
 

Last edited by GregH; 02-01-11 at 03:01 AM.
  #42  
Old 02-01-11, 03:38 AM
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Bob, give us the name and model number on the item for which you desire an manual. I am sure we can help you.
 
  #43  
Old 02-04-11, 03:06 PM
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Showing a little progress installing the new blade guard kit. After trying for 2 days, called my neighbor down to help me try to figure out why the "arm" would not swing left or right. Took the arm cover off and inspected all the rods, springs and made several adjustments but the arm was frozen. I remember how difficult it was to clean off the vertical column from the grease (now turned hard wax) I suspected that too was the problem with the non "swingable" arm. Soaked it overnight with penetrating oil and between the two of us the next day was able to get it to move. It appears to work now, locks @ 90 and 45 etc. Now on to the table, looking at some of the slide show shots you can see that the table has a "bow" in it (dips down in the center) Adjusted the leveling screw, it raised the right side a little but did not move the left, but something I can tweak later. Changed out the pull handle without issue, but was instructed to remove the pointer from the old and install on the new. The old screw nor the ones supplied with the kit were smaller than the tapped hole to hold the pointer. Junk box screws fixed that. Mounted the black inner blade guard to the new clear plastic blade guard and now it appears to remove or install the blade guard, the blade must be removed. Holding the guard and all the moving parts while trying to get the blade, nuts on/off is not that easy. I put 10 shots in a slide show to see what was installed. ImageShack(TM) slideshow Table install, waxed up arm, new guard up and down of both the inner and outer portion, new ring around motor, and hopefully you can see the gap (bow on the table) Wish I could stop the "fade" effects and put the slides in order but.... So now it is on to tweaking it.
 
  #44  
Old 04-09-11, 11:22 PM
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Hi all. Just joined the community and have appreciated the discussion and information. Great how there is a mix of original owners and those who have acquired their RAS in other ways. We moved last summer and I now have room for a workshop, which I am slowly setting up and outfitting. I was discussing this with my father in law last week when he asked if I wanted the Craftsman Radial Arm Saw he had buried in the garage. Turns out some years ago he had done some work for an older lady who's husband bought this saw but never set it up. She gave it to him as thanks for the work. My father in law had never set it up either so I am now the proud owner of a vintage 1969 (70?) saw that has never been used. Came with table and an additional dado kit, miter clamp, jointer and router kit and maybe another doodad or two. This is fantastic luck since I own neither miter saw nor table saw and now can do some of those maneuvers. Unfortunately the fiberboard table was apparently standing in water at some point and the edge is warped so I'm considering what the best material is to replace. I like the idea of MDO or a quality hardwood like Oak or Maple.

I thought I'd pass on some info and links I've come across in my quest to understand what I've got.

If you are looking for a manual for your saw try giving a call over to the recall folks at Radial Arm Saw Recall. I called to see if I could get the kit and a very nice lady there offered to send me the manual for my specific model. (Mine is too old to get the kit but they offered to buy back the motor and arm for $100 which I declined.)

Sears still sells some parts for these saws at http://www.searspartsdirect.com/. Enter your model number and you get the exploded schemas.

There is a great video on setting up a Radial Arm Saw on YouTube. He uses a Dewalt but it mirrors the set up in the Craftsman manual.

Finally, a question for you all. I'm considering what stand to put this on. It will live in the garage, should be reasonably compact and I'll need to be able to move it. I could build a stand, but while in Lowes today I saw a couple of miter saw stands that might be an option too. My concern is the support forward and backward as the saw weight distribution and center of gravity changes. Presumably though as long as the legs have sufficient depth (distance front to back at the footprint) it should be stable. One example is the Porter Cable Mobile Universal Miter Saw/ Planer Stand. Has anyone tried this? Another option might be this Shop Fox stand from Grizzly with some wheels. For those of you with a free-standing, mobile base what are the footprint dimensions?

Thanks very much!
 
  #45  
Old 04-11-11, 01:10 PM
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Believed to be the original legs for mine are Front/Back 18 1/2 at top and 30 1/2 at the bottom. Sides are 22 top and 34 bottom. Front center to ground measures 33 which includes the Stock rubber feet. Working table to ground is 39 3/4". Still working on "inventing" some wheels for it. Screwed on regular old caster type wheels, but they were to wabbly

P.S. Took me about a week to get the tweaking completed. One problem delayed the completion. Everything checked exactly with a square but somehow, the blade appeared to move to the right when it went thru the rip fence I removed the normal blade, and installed a 10" diamond blade (no teeth) and laid the square on the blade and it finally came to light. Craftsman calls it the "heel" adjustment. From the top, the blade was rotated CCW buy a hair, maybe 2 hairs. The cam adjustment seemed to make no difference until I further realized that the shaft was not in full contact with the cam. The whole assembly was loosened? and now making contact, the adjustment made it dead on.
 

Last edited by Mike1555; 04-11-11 at 01:30 PM.
  #46  
Old 11-16-11, 01:08 PM
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Emmerson is still shipping the 'Craftsman RAS kits'!

Last Random chance provided me with my first Radial Arm Saw. It turned out to be an older (1991ish) Craftsman, missing a few parts, among them all of the table top pieces.

That same night, my first round of web searches found both a manual and the 'recall' site. A recall kit was ordered that night and today I was notified that the new guard kit and table have been shipped!

So if any of the late arrivals to this thread are wondering whether the upgrade kit is still available, it is!

Many thanks to the users who contributed to this thread. In so doing, they motivated me to join up & participate.

Bill Hensley
Arlington, WA
 
  #47  
Old 05-07-12, 03:35 PM
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I'm obliged to report that I stumbled on this thread today, acted on it, found the website still alive, and the recall still being honored for the younger of my two saws, requested it, got confirmation, registered here and posted.

Now I need a little nappy. Thanks! (I'll bet half of you hayoos are thinking the same thing I am: this is such an incredible DEAL I can buy up every Craftsman RAS I see and put them in all the rooms in the house that we don't use anyway most of the time. Well, 1% of you anyway.)
 
  #48  
Old 05-15-12, 08:25 PM
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I get a kick out of seeing this thread resurrected 2-3 times a year, and hearing from someone else who got a free RAS retrofit kit from the recall. Not many threads from 2005 that are still active.

Sadly, though I posted the link for that recall 7 years ago, my own Craftsman RAS did not qualify. It's a 12" my dad bought new in the late 1960's or early 1970's. He killed the motor about 10 years ago cutting bricks (!!). He picked up a used late 80's or early 90's 10" cheap locally, and we learned of the recall. He got a kit for his new/used RAS. He then gave me the dead 12" RAS and I bought a motor from a 10" off ebay (bolts on no problem!). Dad was too old fashioned to use the "new fangled" guard from the retro kit, so he gave it to me, and it's on the old 12"/10" hybrid. Even though it's downgraded to a 10" now based on the less powerful motor (11A @ 110 vs 16.8A), I get one benefit from the 12" RAS body...it has a 24" arm instead of 18".

I'm still a little scared of this machine...MAN can a guy mess himself up if he's not careful! I shot a board 20' one time while trying to rip with this saw (was pushing it through incorrectly). I use my table saw to rip now!
 
  #49  
Old 05-25-12, 09:38 AM
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Craftsman 113.199250 rip fence

I inherited one of these RAS's. I hauled it from Florida when I moved my dad up to Alabama. The table was a wreck having absorbed humidity from being out in a shed, so I just took the table off and discarded it. Thanks to you guys in this forum, I found the page for the recall and got the table ordered. Question now is; since the kit doesn't come with a rip fence, I assume I could buy or make one rather than paying Craftsman $22.99 for a new one. What size is it supposed to be and what material do you suggest and would it be to my advantage to build it bigger than OEM size? Thanks for your help.
wanigas
 
  #50  
Old 05-28-12, 09:27 PM
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I never have bought any rip fence for my radial arm saw as it is actually part of the table and is a sacrificial piece of wood. I actually found the repair manual in pdf format here is a link to it http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/pub/sp5984-2.pdf . Go to page 19 and you will see what I am talking about.
 
  #51  
Old 05-28-12, 10:52 PM
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For a rip fence, I use a piece of hardwood (smells like oak) that the cabinet shop I bought it from, threw in with the deal--it's about 3/4" thick, 2-1/2" wide, close to 40" long (make it as long as your table). Got the saw, a ton of accessories and manuals, steel base and scrap rip fence material, for a grand total of $80 on CL. The ad had been on CL for weeks, and the guy was obviously getting desperate, coming down from his original asking price of $250.

I love this saw. Set up properly per the owner's manual, using a decent carbide blade, it cuts true and clean. Sears sent me the free replacement top and the (complex) plastic blade guard, but I decided to not install the latter, as it seems more like a safety hazard than a safety feature. The whole secret to keeping all of one's fingers and thumbs is to ALWAYS respect the blade, even after the switch is off. Ouch hurts.
 
 

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