Rip cutting problems


Old 08-22-05, 07:30 AM
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Rip cutting problems

Hey guys,
I'd like some help diagnosing a problem with my table saw. I am rip cutting some 3/4" stock maple. The blade is giving me a very choppy edge and is burning in places. I bought a brand new Freud diablo 40 tooth ripping blade to see if it would help. No difference. Measured the distance to the fence from the front and back of the blade. Looks dead on. It's happening no matter how slow the stock is fed. I'm at a loss. Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
P.S. No burning when I ran 3/4" maple veneered plywood
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Old 08-22-05, 01:43 PM
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Is your table saw rated at or near 15 amps or more? Are you avoiding the use of an extension cord and avoiding power strips? You will want a full 12 to 15 amps of draw to get a clean cut.
Old 08-22-05, 06:37 PM
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In my experience, it's very difficult to cut maple and not burn it. I think your best bet is to use the thinnest finish blade you can find. Believe it or not, a non-carbide fine-tooth combination blade will probably give you the best results- it's what I've used with success.

I'd also recommend asking Sawdustguy (a cabinet maker here) what he would suggest.
Old 08-23-05, 07:23 AM
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Thanks guys. The saw is rated for 15 amps but I was usinig an extesion cord. I'll try without and see if the power difference helps.

Any thoughts Sawdustguy?
Old 08-23-05, 05:12 PM
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To answer your problem, it could be many different issues, but one main thing can be how powerful your table saw is.

Another key ingredient is to make sure you have a

New! 10"X24FTG 5/8" BORE
CMT Part: 201.024.10 #402480
Price: $69.10 Quantity:

That is the exact blade I use for ripping solid wood and it cuts like butter. With a 110 volt table saw, take your time pushing it through and it will work out just fine.

As Xsleeper mentioned, I'm a cabinetmaker by trade and it's what I use when I do projects for clients that have solid wood in them. You will get stronger saw blade marks, but that can be removed by a thickness planer or you can sand them out.

CMT makes a great blade for solid wood and a miter saw blade.
Old 08-24-05, 02:23 AM
Join Date: Aug 2004
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Originally Posted by countrymac
a very choppy edge and is burning in places
The blade is deflecting, or the fence is, or the wood is twisting/pinching possibly from stress released as you rip it.

A blade stiffener will cure blade deflection.

The fence may need (the indignity of) a clamp. All fences deflect a bit and it's a problem if deflection varies during the cut. Try measuring again not with a rule but by manually turning the blade past some 3/4" scrap - if truly parallel you'll hear the same faint brushing sound front and back. Then apply normal feeding pressure to the fence and if all is well there will be the slightest (audible, not visibly measurable) clearance at the back of the blade.

If the wood is going weird as you destabilise it, then rip about 3/16" oversize and creep up on the final dimension.


Like XSleeper, I've found maple burns easily, and so I assume it will before I even begin.

He also had a good point about carbide blades not giving the best results. Carbide holds an edge longer, but the tradeoff is that brittle carbide teeth must be made square-ish not knife-ish or they'll chip. So if you demand the cleanest cuts or have a free sharpening service use steel - it starts out sharper!
Old 08-24-05, 10:26 AM
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Thanks guys for all your help. Very helpful and informative. Gotta love this link. Update on the situation: I think it's a power problem. I ripped some new stock without the extension cord and did get a very smooth cut but still with too much burn. I did use your measuring advice Kobuchi and found things to be on. This weekend I will do some cuts on my buddy's cabinet saw and plane off the burn marks on his jointer. (Too cheap at this point to get myself a jointer). Interested to see how the higher powered saw handles the job. I'll also take the advice on the CMT blades. Thanks again,

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