Help: Ryobi 7.2V 330/500 RPM drill won't drill through window trim


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Old 10-08-05, 07:13 PM
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Help: Ryobi 7.2V 330/500 RPM drill won't drill through window trim

I have a Ryobi 7.2V 330/500 RPM drill that I've used before for drilling holes through paint-grade clamshell pine window trim for outside mount window blinds. I had windows replaced last winter with Andersen Tilt-Wash windows, and I'm trying to drill holes in the same kind of trim (painted) -- and the thing won't drill more than 1/4" deep! I've never had this problem before.

I'd say it's bumping into something, except it's not even getting through the trim.

What could be the problem? I replaced the drill's battery and it's still not drilling any deeper. Do I need new drill bits?
 
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Old 10-08-05, 07:21 PM
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you could always try a carbide bit , it will drill most anything . a 7.2 volt drill dosnt have much power but it ought to go thru pine , my guess is you are hitting metal or concrete .

have you tried drilling in more than one location ? could be a screw or nail your hitting
 
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Old 10-09-05, 05:20 AM
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I don't know how I could be hitting concrete yet, since it hasn't drilled deep enough to go beyond the trim. You might be on to something, though, because the walls on this floor are plaster, and there's like a cement backerboard behind them.

The holes are in a triangle, about 3/4" apart, so I doubt it's a nail or screw. I'll try the carbide bits, and if that doesn't work I'll have to spring for a more powerful drill, I guess.
 
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Old 10-09-05, 08:53 AM
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as long as the bits turning it ought to be cutting Ive drilled holes in tight spots by hand ,literally , spinning the bit between two fingers . (not recommended but it got the job done)

does the drill motor bind and stop spinning , or does it continue truning but the bit dosnt cut deeper ?
 
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Old 10-09-05, 09:23 AM
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It keeps turning, but the bit stops cutting after about 1/4" I've also tried changing bits (but my drill bits are pretty old, though they don't get much use). They're also probably pretty low-end drill bits as well.
 
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Old 10-09-05, 09:37 AM
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I would start with a new , quality twist bit and go from there , no matter how much power it has if the bit aint sharp it aint going to cut
 
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Old 10-09-05, 01:57 PM
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Ok carbide bits are NOT what you want. carbide, while hard, is extremely brittle, not to mention expensive. You will only be wasting your money, that is if youc an even get them. They are only available through places like MSC and grainder. Any bit will drill through wood. I say your either hitting something or your drill is on its way out.

Jim
 
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Old 10-09-05, 08:34 PM
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hackwriter,

You don't say what diameter bits you are using but if they are in the range of 1/4" or smaller the first thing that jumps out at me is that your drill may be too slow.
Bits of that size range do better when spun at around 1000 rpm.

Knowing the exact conditions you are experiencing would help.
If the bit appears to be cutting normally up to the point it stops advancing then what exactly happens next might tell something.
If the drill maintains its speed and just stops advancing you may have hit something impenetrable.
If the drill starts binding or slowing down as it stops drilling forward then it could be either an underpowered drill or maybe flutes in the bit are packing up with shavings.

What are you experiencing?
 
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Old 10-09-05, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by kartracer55
Ok carbide bits are NOT what you want. carbide, while hard, is extremely brittle, not to mention expensive. You will only be wasting your money, that is if youc an even get them. They are only available through places like MSC and grainder. Any bit will drill through wood. I say your either hitting something or your drill is on its way out.

Jim
I bought a carbide tipped masonry bit at home depot the other day for less than 5 they are availible most anywhere carbon steal bits are .

a carbide tipped masonry bit wil drill wood , concrete and cut through nails and screws .
 
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Old 10-10-05, 06:31 PM
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Well you didnt mention that. There is a big difference between a carbide steel coated tip (which is what you have) and a solid carbide bit. A 1/4 inch solid carbide bit will be well over $15

Jim
 
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Old 10-10-05, 06:52 PM
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Greg, it drills normally until it's about 1/3" in, then it keeps turning but no longer cuts. It doesn't even get through the full thickness of the trim.

These are Andersen Tilt-Wash windows that were fitted into the original openings. As far as I know, there was nothing added to the framing that should be impenetrable. the way the window is, I have to use an outside mount for shades, and since the windows face the street, I really need to be able to hang shades on them. I was able to do this with the same kind of windows when they were replaced in my upstairs bedrooms 4 years ago, but upstairs the walls are sheetrock, whereas downstairs they are plaster on lath, as far as I can see. But I have been able to drill holes in the plaster to hang photos.

I tried drilling in a few other spots on the trim and ran into the same problem.

I bought some new titanium bits today; I'll see if they work any better and will report in. Thanks.
 
 

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