How to remove hole saw from mandrel
#1
How to remove hole saw from mandrel
How do you remove the hole saw from the mandrel? I have a Ridgid 13-piece hole saw set #7040. It would be exactly what I need, except I cannot switch between the 13 different hole saw sizes because the hole saws will not separate from the mandrels.
I have been back to Home Depot, where I bought this set, 3 times. I have been myself personally, and I have sent my dad over there as well to ask the same question. The guys at Home Depot invariably say there shouldn't be a problem. Really? I never would have guessed. They say when you install the a hole saw on the mandrel, you line up the little holes. When you want to remove the hole saw to switch sizes or whatever, all you have to do is twist it off with your hand. WRONG! WRONG! WRONG!!
I have damaged my worktable by putting the hole saw into the vise and trying to wrench it off. It will not come off by twisting it by hand. It won't even come off in a vise with a wrench.
This set came with 2 mandrels and both of them are now inseparable from the hole saws which I initially installed on them. I cannot unseparate them if my life depended upon it.
So Does anyone want to buy the other 11 sizes from me? I can't use them obviously.
Is this a poor quality set? Should I buy a better one?
Isn't Ridgid supposed to be a relatively high-quality manufacturer? If so, what am I doing wrong?

I have been back to Home Depot, where I bought this set, 3 times. I have been myself personally, and I have sent my dad over there as well to ask the same question. The guys at Home Depot invariably say there shouldn't be a problem. Really? I never would have guessed. They say when you install the a hole saw on the mandrel, you line up the little holes. When you want to remove the hole saw to switch sizes or whatever, all you have to do is twist it off with your hand. WRONG! WRONG! WRONG!!
I have damaged my worktable by putting the hole saw into the vise and trying to wrench it off. It will not come off by twisting it by hand. It won't even come off in a vise with a wrench.
This set came with 2 mandrels and both of them are now inseparable from the hole saws which I initially installed on them. I cannot unseparate them if my life depended upon it.
So Does anyone want to buy the other 11 sizes from me? I can't use them obviously.
Is this a poor quality set? Should I buy a better one?
Isn't Ridgid supposed to be a relatively high-quality manufacturer? If so, what am I doing wrong?


#2
Have you loosened the set screw on the arbor? I know it will only release the bit, but it may give some movement. These saws aren't meant to be tightened, but held in place via the pins at a "close" position to bottoming out. You may have better luck in a metal vice than in the wooden jaws. Also, use a pipe wrench on the hole saw to release it. You may cause damage to it, but it can be replaced.
#3
Can't tell exactly, and don't have the same set...soo...
Is that a hole thru the saw itself? Loosen the set screw, remove the drill bit, put a screwdriver or appropriately sized bar thru the hole. Put a wrench on the flats of the shaft and try to loosen it that way.
Oh, I see Chandler replied as well. Forgot about the pin adjustment, that's right those should keep it from getting so tight.
Don't be too hard on the salespeople, most of them probably never used one, and the training isn't much anymore. Not much better anywhere ya go nowadays.
Is that a hole thru the saw itself? Loosen the set screw, remove the drill bit, put a screwdriver or appropriately sized bar thru the hole. Put a wrench on the flats of the shaft and try to loosen it that way.
Oh, I see Chandler replied as well. Forgot about the pin adjustment, that's right those should keep it from getting so tight.
Don't be too hard on the salespeople, most of them probably never used one, and the training isn't much anymore. Not much better anywhere ya go nowadays.
#5
Have you loosened the set screw on the arbor? I know it will only release the bit, but it may give some movement. These saws aren't meant to be tightened, but held in place via the pins at a "close" position to bottoming out. You may have better luck in a metal vice than in the wooden jaws. Also, use a pipe wrench on the hole saw to release it. You may cause damage to it, but it can be replaced.
I have tried using a pipe wrench but it doesn't make a difference either; maybe because I have nothing but a wooden vise table to hold the saw down with. Although I do have a couple of small metal clamps but again, there is nothing to anchor them to except the wooden table. So I have had no luck using them either.
#6
two pipe wrenches or anything that will grab the arbor and the saw.
maybe a pipe wrench on the arbor and a screwdriver through the saw.
then, have somebody hold one tool and you turn the other.
just remember to turn it the correct direction. I know, I know, you know what way to turn it but you wouldn't believe how many times I have heard that before, and they were wrong.
not that it will make it pretty but using the pipe wrench on the larger part of the arbor (where the setscrew for the center bit is) would be most effective. Trying to clamp on the small part, well, physics would be fighting you more.
maybe a pipe wrench on the arbor and a screwdriver through the saw.
then, have somebody hold one tool and you turn the other.
just remember to turn it the correct direction. I know, I know, you know what way to turn it but you wouldn't believe how many times I have heard that before, and they were wrong.
not that it will make it pretty but using the pipe wrench on the larger part of the arbor (where the setscrew for the center bit is) would be most effective. Trying to clamp on the small part, well, physics would be fighting you more.
#9
just remember to turn it the correct direction. I know, I know, you know what way to turn it but you wouldn't believe how many times I have heard that before, and they were wrong..
Looks like a left hand thread - to loosen it would have to be turned clockwise..
Looks like a left hand thread - to loosen it would have to be turned clockwise..
#10
They came with the hole saw; I didn't make them or alter them at all.
#11
I don't have any visegrips. I have used them before, in conjunction with a very heavy chain and a forklift - maybe this combo would work on the hole saw as well. I should go out and get a forklift, chain, and visegrips

#12
Thanks. This is important and yes, it is confusing when you're working upside down or if somebody else is holding one of the wrenches or something.
#13
Sorry DZ
Maybe a terminology thing? Visegrips = Locking pliers
How the heck did you use them with a chain and forklift? lol
Maybe you could just clamp the chain to the holesaw and chuck it in a lake?
Hope you get it undone, thats actually not a bad set. Theres much worse out there.
Maybe a terminology thing? Visegrips = Locking pliers
How the heck did you use them with a chain and forklift? lol
Maybe you could just clamp the chain to the holesaw and chuck it in a lake?

Hope you get it undone, thats actually not a bad set. Theres much worse out there.
#14
two pipe wrenches or anything that will grab the arbor and the saw.
maybe a pipe wrench on the arbor and a screwdriver through the saw.
then, have somebody hold one tool and you turn the other.
just remember to turn it the correct direction. I know, I know, you know what way to turn it but you wouldn't believe how many times I have heard that before, and they were wrong.
not that it will make it pretty but using the pipe wrench on the larger part of the arbor (where the setscrew for the center bit is) would be most effective. Trying to clamp on the small part, well, physics would be fighting you more.
maybe a pipe wrench on the arbor and a screwdriver through the saw.
then, have somebody hold one tool and you turn the other.
just remember to turn it the correct direction. I know, I know, you know what way to turn it but you wouldn't believe how many times I have heard that before, and they were wrong.
not that it will make it pretty but using the pipe wrench on the larger part of the arbor (where the setscrew for the center bit is) would be most effective. Trying to clamp on the small part, well, physics would be fighting you more.
#15
I have a different brand of hole saw, but I experienced the same problem the first time I used it. Chandler is correct. If you screw the mandrel all the way tight into the blade and don't use the locking pins the mandrel will be very difficult to remove. Mine is designed to screw on the mandrel a couple of threads short of tight. Yours is probably the same.
Find someone with a real vice (a machinists vise-try HD if they're so sure you don't have a problem) and ask to borrow it for a couple of seconds. Secure the mandrel in the vise. Remove the bit from the mandrel and put a bar/large screwdriver through the hole in the saw. Grunt and groan while turning the saw off the mandrel. It will come loose or something will break. Either way, it's progress.
Don't do that again.
Find someone with a real vice (a machinists vise-try HD if they're so sure you don't have a problem) and ask to borrow it for a couple of seconds. Secure the mandrel in the vise. Remove the bit from the mandrel and put a bar/large screwdriver through the hole in the saw. Grunt and groan while turning the saw off the mandrel. It will come loose or something will break. Either way, it's progress.
Don't do that again.

#16
I have a different brand of hole saw, but I experienced the same problem the first time I used it. Chandler is correct. If you screw the mandrel all the way tight into the blade and don't use the locking pins the mandrel will be very difficult to remove. Mine is designed to screw on the mandrel a couple of threads short of tight. Yours is probably the same.
Find someone with a real vice (a machinists vise-try HD if they're so sure you don't have a problem) and ask to borrow it for a couple of seconds. Secure the mandrel in the vise. Remove the bit from the mandrel and put a bar/large screwdriver through the hole in the saw. Grunt and groan while turning the saw off the mandrel. It will come loose or something will break. Either way, it's progress.
Don't do that again.
Find someone with a real vice (a machinists vise-try HD if they're so sure you don't have a problem) and ask to borrow it for a couple of seconds. Secure the mandrel in the vise. Remove the bit from the mandrel and put a bar/large screwdriver through the hole in the saw. Grunt and groan while turning the saw off the mandrel. It will come loose or something will break. Either way, it's progress.
Don't do that again.

#17
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It worked!!
Thanks guys.
I didn't begin this thread, but I had the same exact problem. It's just a matter of getting enough force.
After reading the suggestion about the vice and pipe wrench, I pulled out my vice which I had to re-mount to my work bench. I tightened the vice onto the mandrel and used a pipe wrench on the saw. It works.
Also, I had previously put some WD40 and Triflow on the frozen threads to try to loosen them. I don't know if it helped, but it won't hurt.
I didn't begin this thread, but I had the same exact problem. It's just a matter of getting enough force.
After reading the suggestion about the vice and pipe wrench, I pulled out my vice which I had to re-mount to my work bench. I tightened the vice onto the mandrel and used a pipe wrench on the saw. It works.
Also, I had previously put some WD40 and Triflow on the frozen threads to try to loosen them. I don't know if it helped, but it won't hurt.
#18
and a little electrician trick.
take a piece of solder wire or solid copper wire about the size of #12 or so and wrap it around the arbor where the hole saw screws on before you screw the holesaw on. It helps.
take a piece of solder wire or solid copper wire about the size of #12 or so and wrap it around the arbor where the hole saw screws on before you screw the holesaw on. It helps.