Craftsman leaf blower won't start

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  #1  
Old 10-02-08, 12:02 PM
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Craftsman leaf blower won't start

Hello....my first post....

Since the year 2000 I have had 3 of the 25 cc $125.00 Orangish-red Craftsman 215 mph leaf blowers. The 1st two just locked up. THe other day the last one died. It is not locked up but when I attempted to start it it dis start....it reeved up one time and died. The motor now does spin when the cord is pulled but doesn't appear to have the good compression that it use to and of course it still does not start. I have pushed the primer bulb countless times and I pulled the plug and it looks dry ....I have even put an automotive in line spark tester (Harbor Freight tool) on the plug and it doesn't seem to be getting spark...>BUT even though the plug looks dry ...spark results etc I do not feel it is a fuel or fire ing problem as when I pull the cord it has hardly no compression. When I google leaf blower won't start I have found and read several posts where a gasket may be the problem. Noe of these post have the same blower and noe sate if it is a head gasket or a cylinder gasket.....can some one help me oout here?

P.S. Sorry if this post is to long

Thanks a lot,



Nic
 
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Old 10-02-08, 06:29 PM
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Take the plug out, insert something like a soda straw in the hole and see if the piston will push it out when you pull the cord. If it does, place your finger over the hole and lightly pull the cord to see if pressure builds up. Two tests to see if you are getting compression and if the piston is moving.
 
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Old 10-02-08, 07:13 PM
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chandler

Chandler,

Hey thanks for the reply. I know the piston is moving....I have already taken the plug out and peered down the hole while pulling the start cord. The piston does not appear to have damage (from what little that can be seen). I feel it has some compresson from the sound with the plug in but also feel it has been reduced from memory. I will remove the plug again tomorrow and do the finger test...will report back.

Thanks,




Nic
 
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Old 10-03-08, 04:54 AM
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Just caught something in your OP. You have pressed the primer bulb and the plug remains dry.....sounds as if you have a fuel delivery problem. Do you feel pressure on the bulb after pressing it 5 or 6 times? If not, it may indicate a line break inside the fuel tank so the bulb is not picking up fuel. Just more fuel for the fire.
 
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Old 10-04-08, 10:00 AM
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When you spray starter fluid in spark hole (replace plug)
will engine fire?
3 since 2000-wow !!
Do you have to winterizer the units or store for a number of mo. Do you use fuel stabilizer in your gas. Do you let the engine run until tank is empty if storing ?
Like chandler said--may be a fuel delivery problem...............
Let us know if it fires w/starter fluid.........................
When you have some spare time--read pages 9-12 of owners manual...............
 
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Old 10-06-08, 06:03 PM
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Leaf blower won't start

hey folks,

Thanks again for the replies....I have not had a chance to re address or try the your suggestions (mainly because having some physical problems - disabled Vet), however I intend on doing so tomorrow and will post results. Thanks again.



Nic
 
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Old 10-07-08, 05:22 PM
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tests on blower

Hi again folks,

I did ckeck out the blower as suggested today...

Rmoved the plug and pulled cord many times....feel compression...not a25 lbs or anthing but there is some compression (do not know how much there should be). I also tried pumping the primer many times and pulling the cord with my finger in the spark plug hole to see if I would get a wet finger...nothing . I then as suggested spray A LOT of engine starter (either or whatever... definitely engine starter) in the plug hole...put plug back in quickly and pulled the cord with NO RESULTS---Nothing . like it seems I am not getting spark or fuel. I previously put a Harbor Freight spark tester in between the plug wire and plug and did not get spark either ????

ANy suggestions now please?

Thanks,

Nic
 
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Old 10-07-08, 07:04 PM
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Try a new spark plug................
Also--are you past your 2 year warranty on this unit?
 
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Old 10-07-08, 07:40 PM
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Thumbs up

ok here we go...certified mechanic time...first of all NEVER use ether....i did once and i blew the piston right you of the mower...and one more bit of slight criticism...crafstman in our shop are the most seen problematic..i recomend, i know the pricetag is a lil bit bigger but and Echo. they have a lifetime warrentee on ignition and several other parts, plus we never see them back except for tuneups...ok your fuel line may have melted in the tank which does happen due to the gasoline these days..you could have had sucked up some debris, or you could have dried stale fuel in the carb blocking flow..the only other thing i could think of for compression is if the cylnder is scored due to over heating, improper fuel mixture or just something getting in there...as for your inition, chekc the recall list, some ignition modules have been recalled due to faulty wires.one last thing, check your air gap betwen the ignition coil and the flywheel at ignition stage..
sorry if this is long but i wanted to cover everything
 
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Old 10-08-08, 02:45 AM
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Visually check for spark first of all. Take the plug out and connect it to the plug wire, then let the metal part of the plug base touch metal on the engine. On some of these blowers, this is hard to do with all the plastic casing, so you may have to wedge a screwdriver under some of the plastic and up against the metal head. Lay the plug on the screwdriver shaft. Then pull the rope and observe the plug gap. If no spark is present, post back and we'll go into diagnosing the ignition system.

If spark is present, we'll go to the fuel system. Pressing the primer bulb does not introduce any fuel into the engine. It draws fuel from the tank, through the carb, and back into the tank through the return line so as to get the carb completely full of fuel before trying to start it so that the number of pulls to get it running is minimal. If the primer bulb fills most of the way with fuel, and returns to normal position almost immediately after pressing it, chances are it is priming fine.

One problem area on these engines is the cylinder. The bolts that hold it to the block get loose and the cylinder begins to move. This decreases compression, plus creates a severe air leak into the crankcase, which will stop a 2-stroke from running.

Another common failure is piston/cylinder damage. You'll need to remove the muffler and look into the port while turning the engine to see the piston skirt and the inside walls of the cylinder. It there are scratches that look bad enough to catch a fingernail on, then it's toast.

Many times I will put about a tsp of engine oil in the spark plug hole, reinstall the plug, and try to start the engine then. If the compression is the problem, the oil will boost compression enough to get it started. If this gets it started, the engine has lost too much compression and is not worth repair generally.
 
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Old 11-17-08, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by cheese View Post
Visually check for spark first of all. Take the plug out and connect it to the plug wire, then let the metal part of the plug base touch metal on the engine. On some of these blowers, this is hard to do with all the plastic casing, so you may have to wedge a screwdriver under some of the plastic and up against the metal head. Lay the plug on the screwdriver shaft. Then pull the rope and observe the plug gap. If no spark is present, post back and we'll go into diagnosing the ignition system.

If spark is present, we'll go to the fuel system. Pressing the primer bulb does not introduce any fuel into the engine. It draws fuel from the tank, through the carb, and back into the tank through the return line so as to get the carb completely full of fuel before trying to start it so that the number of pulls to get it running is minimal. If the primer bulb fills most of the way with fuel, and returns to normal position almost immediately after pressing it, chances are it is priming fine.

One problem area on these engines is the cylinder. The bolts that hold it to the block get loose and the cylinder begins to move. This decreases compression, plus creates a severe air leak into the crankcase, which will stop a 2-stroke from running.

Another common failure is piston/cylinder damage. You'll need to remove the muffler and look into the port while turning the engine to see the piston skirt and the inside walls of the cylinder. It there are scratches that look bad enough to catch a fingernail on, then it's toast.

Many times I will put about a tsp of engine oil in the spark plug hole, reinstall the plug, and try to start the engine then. If the compression is the problem, the oil will boost compression enough to get it started. If this gets it started, the engine has lost too much compression and is not worth repair generally.
I hope you're still around - i tried your oil trick and it started and ran for maybe 5 - 10 minutes. Does that mean it's junk or does the fact that it ran that long mean there is hope?

Thanks in advance for your reply.
 
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Old 09-03-10, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by cheese View Post
...One problem area on these engines is the cylinder. The bolts that hold it to the block get loose and the cylinder begins to move. This decreases compression, plus creates a severe air leak into the crankcase, which will stop a 2-stroke from running....
Many thanks for this tip. I couldn't figure out why my orangish-red Craftsman 215 mph leaf blower would only run briefly when fuel or starting fluid was manually squirted into the carburetor. I thought the carburetor was clogged, but cleaning didn't help. One of the two cylinder bolts was loose. Problem solved.
 
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Old 09-07-10, 07:23 AM
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After one use, the cylinder bolt came loose again. This time I cleaned the bolt, chased the threads, and applied red high-strength threadlocker. If it happens again, I'll try J.B. Weld epoxy. Does anyone know of a better way to lock a cylinder bolt?
 
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Old 11-15-11, 02:05 PM
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Don't know if thread is still active but....
PaFromFL
You had written;
"After one use, the cylinder bolt came loose again. This time I cleaned the bolt, chased the threads, and applied red high-strength threadlocker. If it happens again, I'll try J.B. Weld epoxy. Does anyone know of a better way to lock a cylinder bolt? "

I had the same problem. What I wound up doing is backing the bolt out, putting in lock thread then puting in a split washer when I bolted the unit back together. It holds tight now but I bekieve the head just blew!!!!!! Craftsman, IMHO, has become the seller of garbage!!!!!!!!! This unit is just outside of two seasons old and it's worthless!!! Had a McCullough Eager Beaver that ran over twenty years till the Enviros drove the guy from business. Now I can't get IT re-started probably the same problem!
 
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Old 08-17-13, 03:43 PM
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Hello, i have a Carftman 25cc gas blower 200 mph/ 430 cfm that will not start.It is getting fire,and gas, the compression is from 30 to 60. the cylinder head bolts are tight,. i to the muffler off to look inside the cylinder wall and piston side, it look ok but not sure , also i screwed the spark plug out and poured a little motor oil in the cylinder.It started up for one second but would not start again. Can any one help me with this ?

Thanks Mr350z
 
 

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