Framing saw vs. circular saw


Old 06-04-10, 03:26 PM
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Framing saw vs. circular saw

The thickest wood I saw is a 2x4. Does the "framing" saw have enough cutting depth to saw a 2x4?

I have a regular circular saw, but since I'm not so handy, I don't like using it. I was reading online about framing saws and I think one would might be right for me, since I only do light cutting. But I do occasionally saw 2x4s.

Because the regular circular saw is heavy and intimidating ("kicks back"), I sometimes use a jig saw to cut 2x4s, even though a jig saw does not make a good square cut like a circular saw does.

I understand the framing saw is much lighter and easier to handle.

Thanks to all for any advice.

Beer 4U2
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Old 06-04-10, 05:33 PM
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I'm a painter not a carpenter but I'm not aware of any differences between a regular skil saw and a framing saw.... other than a carpenter would likely use a better brand/line. I've had a cheap skil saw and currently have a worm drive saw but every circular saw I've ever used would cut thru a 2x4 with no problem.

What size blade does your saw have? how is the blade depth adjusted?
Old 06-04-10, 06:55 PM
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Since your the occasional handyman, and occasionally cutting 2x4's. the best bet for you, for the easiest and straightest cuts is a miter saw, or chop saw. you can get a relativaly good one for under 150, with a laser line on it.

Last edited by stickshift; 06-05-10 at 09:33 AM. Reason: removed unnecessary quoting of entire post
Old 06-05-10, 03:34 AM
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You may be confusing a conventional lightweight circular saw with a worm gear framing saw. Yes, there is a big difference. Most conventional saws are right handed, meaning the blade is on the right (dumb, but true). Worm gear and some circle saws have the blade on the left, making it easier to see your marks and lines. Worm gear saws weight up to 3 times a regular saw. Like EJNJ said, a good inexpensive miter saw will make your wood cutting a pleasure.
Old 06-05-10, 03:38 AM
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I agree with EjoeNJ on the chop saw. easy to use and relatively safe. However, a good carbide blade in a skill saw will work well if used right.

Circular saws have some rules, follow them and they are much safer than just one handing it. Secure the wood you are going to cut, and not with your left hand, that is where a kick back will get ya. If the wood is clamped in place where it will not move and will not bind, then you can put two hands on the saw and it will feel much better.

Blades kick back when they are dull, get pinched, or are used wrong. I'm not sure what they are referring to as a framing saw, I suspect it is just another circular saw. If so, you will still need to learn and use better tool skills to be safe. IMO


You beat me as usual Chandler , good morning.

Last edited by Bud9051; 06-05-10 at 03:42 AM. Reason: slow post
Old 06-05-10, 04:55 AM
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Framing Saw

It seems the framing saw is a smaller version of a circular saw:

Ridgid Fuego 6-1/2" Framing Saw - Review | Tool Snob -

I am not necessarily a Ridgid fan, but I found this interesting.

Last edited by Wirepuller38; 06-05-10 at 04:56 AM. Reason: As usual, to correct errors.
Old 06-05-10, 05:02 AM
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I suggest going with a saw that uses 7 1/4" blades. It will cut any 2x lumber you want and new blades will be easily found. My boss has an odd sized saw blade and the only place he can find blades is a specificity hard ware store.
Old 06-05-10, 05:25 AM
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I now use cordless tools 99% of the time. I can easily handle the cordless circular saw with one hand while my monster corded, worm drive circular saw requires both hands. There is no comparison in power but the cordless easily goes through 2x4's. I will get out the corded circular saw or chop saw if I have a big project where I have a lot of cuts.
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